Youth broad head recommendation?

[Fullfan]

Magnus Black hornets for the win. Stay away from the Iron Will and 6 day camps.

 

[Dennis]

Looks like a great archer in the making. I would suggest looking at the Magnus heads specifically the new 150 grain single bevel or one of the single bevel broadheads from Sirius Archery (Tuffhead). The Ranch Fairy has some great information on low poundage setups that should work great. He also covers the advantages of single bevels. My experience with single bevel broadheads has made a big difference in penetration, harvest rates and tracking. Structural integrity and perfect arrow flight are at the top of the list.

Review the Ashby report on the 12 enhanced penetration factors for additional details.

Please tell your son "good luck"

 

[Trial153]

Viper trick is a great option for low poundage. Super good blade angle and penetration.
Three bladed one piece heads like VPA are solid choice as well, and while they aren’t my favorite they have a strong following and track record
Solids, IronWill and Day six Evo are fantastic premium heads that will perform fantastic.

A good budget head that really impressed me is the Exact Archery 4 blade CoC head they make. While it has steep blade angle the COC leading blade makes for crazy good penetration and the durability more then impressed me on the one deer I used it on.

 

[LookinforDirt]

QAD Exodus. Affordable, fly straight, replaceable blades, and do their job very well.

 

[Coveyleader]

I know this thread is a few months old now, but can you vouch for this head being pretty capable out of a low poundage setup? I know the tip is “almost” a cut on contact, pointier than the original slick truck and other chisel type heads, but not as sharp as something like the tip of a Magnus.

I’ve considered whether it is a viable option in this scenario, so I’d love to hear about any experience or insight you have with it.

For s young shooter, they would be great for no other reason than they fly excellent. When you’re young you need all the help you can get .


I’m not a fan of them these days, but they are a great head for a beginner.

 

[Scoot]

Magnus Stingers with the inserts in. Put them where they're supposed to go and they'll zip right through a deer with your son's setup. A 2 blade with a small bleeder blade (like the Stinger) is a good choice IMO. I've had my kids use Stingers with no bleeders and I've seen better blood trails/results with the bleeder in. Good luck!

 

[Mr Lahey]

Would anyone be willing to share their youth arrow recommendations that they pair with the Magnus head? I personally shoot Victory RIP TKO's with 55 gr stainless serts and 100 gr mechanical heads. A buddy of mine turned me on this setup maybe 5 or 6 years ago and I've had great success. Maybe a dozen deer shot and I watched all of them die. With that said, I'm considering moving away from mechanicals to fixed and also have a 13 and 11 year old, so would like to go with a single arrow type and head for all three of us to keep things simple and more affordable.

 

[ddowning]

The broadhead is the most important part of the equation. My girls both started bowhunting this year. They used 4 blade stinger buzzcuts(2 blade with bleeders). I sharpened them on a kme. I don't care what anyone says. I bought three packages. Factory blades ranged from dull to mediocre.

My oldest was 11 at the time and my youngest 8. The oldest pulls 31# @ 24" with a 360 grain arrow. The shot was 24 yards and the arrow buried to the fetching(26.5" arrow length.) If she was using feathers and not vanes, she probably would have gotten a pass through.

The 8 year old was pulling 23#@21" with a 340 grain arrow. The shot was 17 yards and she got about 16" of penetration. Ray Charles could have followed both blood trails.

 

[Zac]

Magnus Black hornets for the win. Stay away from the Iron Will and 6 day camps.

You want to give a reason your promoting cheap stainless steel and aluminum over tool steel, and high grade knife steel like S30?

 

[Fullfan]

You want to give a reason your promoting cheap stainless steel and aluminum over tool steel, and high grade knife steel like S30?

Okay, first off, the Iw and 6-day are twice the cost. IW always spouted off about a lifetime warrantee. Tried that and it went absolutely nowhere. Bleeder blade was loose on a IW solid 100, they told me not to worry about it. Well for 33.00 each, I did worry. The cheap stainless as you call it, fly and cut just like the expensive heads. But the company that makes the cheap stainless heads, has a lifetime warrantee. No questions asked and they will replace or fix your problem. Only plus to an IW is the edge retention. But be careful that 33.00 head will become corroded, even if it does not leave the house. Let's not forget the QAD exodus and the Slick Trick family too, all great heads that will get the job done.

 

[Trial153]

I seem to many failures from magnus heads at blade ferule junction to trust or recommend them.

 

[ddowning]

I seem to many failures from magnus heads at blade ferule junction to trust or recommend them.

Not being argumentative, I don't want to set my kids up for failure. Got pictures? What exactly failed. I honestly questioned the design some, but we're not talking about shooting bones with a 90# 30" bow either.

 

[Zac]

I think the Black Hornet is a better option than the Stinger. That long thin blade just creates shear problems. Longer heads can experience more drag as well.

 

[Trial153]

Not being argumentative, I don't want to set my kids up for failure. Got pictures? What exactly failed. I honestly questioned the design some, but we're not talking about shooting bones with a 90# 30" bow either.

We had original black hornets that broke in targets. Rosiebull on here had stinger break on elk he killed at the blade ferrule junction, think it was this year or the year before.
There are better heads out there

 

[Zac]

We had original black hornets that broke in targets. Rosiebull on here had stinger break on elk he killed at the blade ferrule junction, think it was this year or the year before.
There are better heads out there

I think that’s a result of the materials secondary to the box store price point. If you take the same basic design and change the materials you end up with a very effective head. I just think failures will always be more likely with aluminum and cheap stainless. However their new SB looks to be great.

 

[TX_Diver]

If budget isn't an issue I'd look at the 2 blade cutthroats from RMS gear over IW or some of the other premium heads. They get sharp and are extremely durable. Also made in USA, etc. If budget is an issue then I'll be suggestion number 30 something for magnus.

I shot Magnus stingers for awhile and killed an elk with one at 50 yards from a 60lb bow. It went through the bull and bent the head on a tree behind him (Magnus sent me a new head). I had zero idea how to sharpen broadheads at the time so that one was straight out of the pack and shot into a target 2-3x to check.

IW, etc. are great (I've shot them too) but they are a pain to sharpen in addition to being expensive.

I am shooting cutthroat 3 blades now but for a 40lb bow the 2 blades would be better probably based on the general consensus.

 

[CMF]

Magnus Killer Bee Stinger 2 blade, 7/8" no bleeders...

Do you guys think the bleeder blades are that detrimental? I remember them being around 3/8".
(I think I have some if anyone wants them)

I don't know that I would say detrimental - I've had better flight on the ones without

I think the Black Hornet is a better option than the Stinger. That long thin blade just creates shear problems. Longer heads can experience more drag as well.

I've found the killer bees the most accurate in flight and had problems with the hornets, maybe just the pack I got.

I’ll take penetration over increased cut with a short draw and low poundage bow. Put it where it counts and bleeders won’t make a lick of difference but if you square up a rib those bleeders will make it harder to get through the rib.

I AGREE with this 100% - It's one of the reasons I shoot them as well, in addition, they are the more accurate in my experience. I plan on moving to IW(buff) this season, but keeping the Killer bees on my wife and kids bows.

 

[masonbanta]

I know this thread is a few months old now, but can you vouch for this head being pretty capable out of a low poundage setup? I know the tip is “almost” a cut on contact, pointier than the original slick truck and other chisel type heads, but not as sharp as something like the tip of a Magnus.

I’ve considered whether it is a viable option in this scenario, so I’d love to hear about any experience or insight you have with it.

Yes my daughter shoots around 30# and uses the Viper Trick and G5 Striker. Both have proven they work with her set up.

 

[AkRyan]

2 things come to mind, it has to be razor sharp and it can't be a mechanical. I would look at fixed 2blade or a tried and true montec/exodus