Your ideal fixed blade knife...?

[HellsCanyon]

Alright guys, going to be doing a little horse trading I think with a local guy I met who makes some badass knives and has been doing them for years. I've never had a "good" knife like we're talking about and it will likely be one that will be thrown into the pack on certain trips. What shape/length of blade would you recommend?? Pics are always appreciated! You can check out some of the knives in his gallery here:
http://lonetreecutlery.com/gallery.html

I normally pack JUST a havalon with some blades and that will likely continue. But I also am around livestock and horses a bit and have always carried a clip on knife for that as well and figured having a backup in the pack never hurts on a hunt as well. I think the whole "custom" factor has me wanting one...

Mike

 

[teflonhunter]

I like an EESE 3. Holds an edge and not hard to sharpen.

 

[chopchop]

I'm a knife lover, so if I were going for a custom blade, I'd get a well heat treated carbon steel (O1, A2, 5160, 1045, D2, or even 3V) that's easy to sharpen with a hand filling oval shaped handle, 3 to 5 inch blade, drop point, continuous curved plain edge, and a saber or full flat grind. I like the feel of wood for the handle, so I'd want something like a nice old osage from a fence post or an old tree. I'd also want a nice thick leather sheath with a welt to carry the knife.

If you want to use it as a skinner, you will probably want a fair amount of belly in the blade.

In reality, all we ever really care about is if you can use it to cut what you want to cut, how and when you need to cut it. And, of course, it has to look badass cool. lol

 

[SHTF]

Eese 4 here Id put it up against any custom made knife out there. Love Randals blades he does great work. The size shape and everything is pefect for what I do with my fixed blades.

 

[LostInSpace278]

I had 3 custom knives made a few years ago. I had 2 bird and trout made and the other was a Nessmuk blade. The Nessmuk blade is an all around great blade for a camp/hunting knife. If look at the gallery page, it resembles the very last picture on that page. It is great for skinning or to split fire wood. The main reason I had these commissioned was because of the quality, it could be something my children will use when they become my age.

View attachment 13838

 

[wilkes]

3V is very impressive when done well. If he is able to make you a knife from it in the 4-6 inch blade range, you will have a knife that can do just about anything without being too cumbersome.

 

[Ruskin]

No one has mentioned thickness yet. I know that varies from detailed work to true bushcraft uses.

 

[charvey9]

I do own a few nice Benchmade knives from the bone collector series, a folder and a matching fixed blade. The only reason I don't carry a them is the weight, like you said it is just hard to beat a havalon with a few extra blades. I don't claim to know a whole lot about knives, but I think my ideal fixed blade would have a skeletonized handle to save on weight.

 

[ScottP]

I'm a knife lover, so if I were going for a custom blade, I'd get a well heat treated carbon steel (O1, A2, 5160, 1045, D2, or even 3V) that's easy to sharpen with a hand filling oval shaped handle, 3 to 5 inch blade, drop point, continuous curved plain edge, and a saber or full flat grind.

If you want a dedicated hunting knife, 3.25"-4" is my preferred blade length. I agree with the above on steel choices, and the drop point blade design is a MUST in my opinion (we used to shoot an process 5-10 whitetail per year, so I've broken down a few animals). My personal preference is full-height convex grinds, but to each his own. I'm attaching a photo with some of my collection from a while back. The top two in the photo I carry for hunting. The one at the top is my favorite hunting knife, a Bark River Classic Drop Point in A2 steel. Second from top is a Bark River Necker 2 in 3V steel. My backup is the orange handled folder, a Kabar Dozier hunter in AUS8 ($20!! and sharp as a razor). Go to a knife shop if you can and handle some knives to get a feel for what handle contour suits you, there are so many options out there.

I should add that the Necker 2 is skeletonized with removable handles if you want to cut weight. My friend cord-wrapped his, but it was nowhere near as comfortable as with the handles and then the cord got full of blood and fat from his bear and had to be removed anyway.

 

[AK Troutbum]

Anybody using any of the Kestrel knives, particularly the titanium skeletonized knives? I've been looking at these lately and just kind of wondering about first-hand experiences.

 

[tipsntails7]

Anybody using any of the Kestrel knives, particularly the titanium skeletonized knives? I've been looking at these lately and just kind of wondering about first-hand experiences.

I'm actually curious as well, I've never see one and actually have never even heard of someone using one. For what they cost I would hope they are top notch.

 

[COR]

Nothing quite like a Nessmuk style for a do it all kinda knife. The BHK Muk is my go to blade (01 Tool steel for me)...

George Sears had it correct a long time ago...

 

[unm1136]

I think Ti's edge holding ability will ruin the weight savings when you have to carry a sharpening setup. I have had a couple of Ti knives over the years, and they are a specialty item. I found them severely wanting in edge retention, and it doesn't seem to take as fine an edge as good steel. Take it for what it is worth, because I also prefer tool steel to stainless as a rule. A custom setup made of Ti that takes Halvalon blades, may be a winner. Al will likely be too soft to repeatedly replace the blades, so a frame lock Ti folder that takes halvalon blades...I would buy one of those.

If Rob Simonich were still around Stellite/Talonite would likely be more commonplace. Slippery (doesn't drag on materials being cut), no iron in it, so no rust, holds an edge like no one's business, not well suited to chopping, but takes a super edge. Expensive though.

pat

 

[Vance in AK]

MY ideal fixed blade hunting knife is my Kershaw echo with orange handle.
Great design, holds an edge like nobody's business, almost impossible to loose, & at about $30 if I do loose it I'm not out too much.
It works & works well. That's all I ask of a knife.
not that I don't appreciate & drool over customs!!!!!!!

 

[PJG]

I've only had one knife in my hunting career, a Ruana skinner that my Dad bought for me my first year hunting when I was 12. I almost hate to think how many animals that knife has been used on, been thru a lot for sure, it will see its 26th elk season this year.. I always smile when I look at that knife, plus they're made in Montana.

 

[fulldraw1972]

An exgirlfriends dad gave me this knife after I took him deer hunting one weekend.

 

[AK Troutbum]

I think Ti's edge holding ability will ruin the weight savings when you have to carry a sharpening setup. I have had a couple of Ti knives over the years, and they are a specialty item. I found them severely wanting in edge retention, and it doesn't seem to take as fine an edge as good steel. Take it for what it is worth, because I also prefer tool steel to stainless as a rule. A custom setup made of Ti that takes Halvalon blades, may be a winner. Al will likely be too soft to repeatedly replace the blades, so a frame lock Ti folder that takes halvalon blades...I would buy one of those.

If Rob Simonich were still around Stellite/Talonite would likely be more commonplace. Slippery (doesn't drag on materials being cut), no iron in it, so no rust, holds an edge like no one's business, not well suited to chopping, but takes a super edge. Expensive though.

pat

The titanium Kestrel has a tungsten carbide impreganated edge. Do you think that makes any difference?

 

[Vance in AK]

I've only had one knife in my hunting career, a Ruana skinner that my Dad bought for me my first year hunting when I was 12. I almost hate to think how many animals that knife has been used on, been thru a lot for sure, it will see its 26th elk season this year.. I always smile when I look at that knife, plus they're made in Montana.

Those are made up in the Flathead valley right? I remember seeing a few when I lived in Hamilton. Beautiful/functional blades!

 

[PJG]

Those are made up in the Flathead valley right? I remember seeing a few when I lived in Hamilton. Beautiful/functional blades!

Yessir, Bonner Mt. They really do make some nice stuff.

 

[Lukem]

I've had a Dunn set for many years and really like the size and shape of the Small Game for all around work and the Small Skinner is a great skinner as well. They hold an edge well, grip well when bloody and clean up well when home. I like knives in the 3-4" range. Any more blade is just unused metal.

http://www.dunnknives.com/smallskinnersmallgame.html