XLR Element 3.0 Chassis Review, By Travis Bertrand

[Fever Buck]

1) there is an ever so slight ping but not an issue. Just different.
2) get a new gunsmith because he’s obviously has never ran one. There is zero chance of this. I ran a mtu contour on one of my guns and there’s plenty of clearance.
3) do the math, it’s within an ounce or two on the lightest stocks on the market. Even if you did care that much, a cf stock doesn’t fold and isn’t adjustable to fit the shooter. A ton of benefits for 1-2 oz.
4) get a new gunsmith because he doesn’t know what he’s talking about. Well let me rephrase, are you shooting f class? Bedding might make you go from mid 3s to low 3s. It certainly won’t make a big difference. Oh guess what, you can bed a chassis too. So let’s circle back, he doesn’t know what he’s talking about.

5) get a new smith or have him elaborate more on this. The only issue with “magnum” rounds is the fact a chassis is limited to the magazine length so calibers like 338 edge will not fit.

Seems to me your smith is bent out of shape he’s not bedding a stock for you. I get it. I have a plumber friend who hates pex because it took the craftsmanship out of the job for him. Pex is hands down better than copper

The benefits (folding buttstock, modularity, fitting of the gun, balancing, fitting multiple members of my family ) of a chassis outweigh a traditional stock for me and there’s still a lot of room for advancement in the industry.


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Thanks so much for the info on all of this. I think it does make sense that it’s maybe due to them getting less labor charges in on the orders due to no bedding.

 

[XLR]

Thanks so much for the info on all of this. I think it does make sense that it’s maybe due to them getting less labor charges in on the orders due to no bedding.

There are a ton of gunsmiths that use our chassis to test all their barreled actions due to how we inlet the chassis with our multi-point radial inlet instead of a V-block. they have actually taken the time to test and see the chassis does not induce any stress into the receiver just like a properly bedded stock. So it saves them a ton of time and frustration even if the barreled action is going into a different stock/chassis they will test it in our chassis knowing it will shoot to its fullest potential.
Any lightweight stock or chassis will have some forend flex, just the nature of the beast when you are saving weight. But the Element chassis is FAR!! more ridged than 90% of the stocks out there, especially within the same weight. Compare it to our Envy and the Envy is even more rigid but is significantly larger. If they are pushing into the rifle and getting the barrel of any size to touch the forend they are doing one of two things.
1. They are really angry and applying a metric shit ton of shoulder pressure that alone will cause horrible accuracy and shouldn't be looked at as a professional in any way.
2. They forgot to tighten the action screws because they were so angry they didn't need to bed the chassis.

The number of rifles that have been built with stellar results chambered in 300 norma, 300 PRC, 338 LM, Weatherbys, RUM's, and even 33 XC's on the chassis with no complaints would astound you. Trust me there are gunsmiths out there that will say absolutely no to using XLR. Just like certain mechanics say XYZ trucks are bad. People have their opinions which is fine. If you ever have any questions please reach out and we hope you can try one for your own conclusion in the future. Also the majority of the time (not always) the ting people here is the magazine

 

[Fever Buck]

There are a ton of gunsmiths that use our chassis to test all their barreled actions due to how we inlet the chassis with our multi-point radial inlet instead of a V-block. they have actually taken the time to test and see the chassis does not induce any stress into the receiver just like a properly bedded stock. So it saves them a ton of time and frustration even if the barreled action is going into a different stock/chassis they will test it in our chassis knowing it will shoot to its fullest potential.
Any lightweight stock or chassis will have some forend flex, just the nature of the beast when you are saving weight. But the Element chassis is FAR!! more ridged than 90% of the stocks out there, especially within the same weight. Compare it to our Envy and the Envy is even more rigid but is significantly larger. If they are pushing into the rifle and getting the barrel of any size to touch the forend they are doing one of two things.
1. They are really angry and applying a metric shit ton of shoulder pressure that alone will cause horrible accuracy and shouldn't be looked at as a professional in any way.
2. They forgot to tighten the action screws because they were so angry they didn't need to bed the chassis.

The number of rifles that have been built with stellar results chambered in 300 norma, 300 PRC, 338 LM, Weatherbys, RUM's, and even 33 XC's on the chassis with no complaints would astound you. Trust me there are gunsmiths out there that will say absolutely no to using XLR. Just like certain mechanics say XYZ trucks are bad. People have their opinions which is fine. If you ever have any questions please reach out and we hope you can try one for your own conclusion in the future. Also the majority of the time (not always) the ting people here is the magazine

Awesome. That’s good to hear from y’all. For a 300 PRC build, would you recommend the aluminum element or the magnesium?

 

[XLR]

Awesome. That’s good to hear from y’all. For a 300 PRC build, would you recommend the aluminum element or the magnesium?

That is a personal choice deciding on how much weight you want to save, and the end goal of the rifle weight. You are looking at 6 ounces different on just the chassis block. As we all know to well those ounces add up fast... Few ounces on each component used on the rifle can be multiple pounds on the finished system.

Also always try to make sure we discuss with the customer what general "type" of rifle is being built. Meaning what style of hunts are you bringing it on?
For me personally most of my high alpine, backcountry rifles are smaller calibers (300 WSM, 7 SAUM, 6.5 PRC) and those are my lightweight rifles. the weight to caliber selection of the rifle correlates to shootability. So any large 30 and 338 caliber rifles I would use the MG Element, equipped with a TR-2 or C-6 buttstock and ergo grip. The additional weight of the precision buttstock, and grip are well worth it on rifles with more recoil. You will be more accurate and comfortable no matter the position. these rifles usually also have slightly heavier, scopes, barrels, and muzzle devices.

Saving the weight on the chassis block helps allow me to add weight in other areas that aid in the performance of the rifle, which is usually the goal for the larger 30 and 338's. Canyon rifles for bear, elk, and deer that usually are in the lower country, and not a rifle I am usually packing in many miles with an extended stay.

Overall weights I choose to stay around on specifically built rifles.
- Smaller calibers 7 3/4 - 9 pounds scoped. "Ultralight long-range rifle"
*6.5's, short action magnums i.e. WSM/SAUMS
- Larger calibers 10-12 pounds scoped with bipod. "Medium weight extended range rifle"
*300 PRC, 300 RUM, 300 NM improved, larger Nosler's Weatherby's, etc...
Focus on long-range. If the rifle is going on a backcountry hunt and shooting past 300 yards is not in the books, then having different components, especially scopes, and having a sub-7 pound scoped rifle is great.

 

[Fever Buck]

That is a personal choice deciding on how much weight you want to save, and the end goal of the rifle weight. You are looking at 6 ounces different on just the chassis block. As we all know to well those ounces add up fast... Few ounces on each component used on the rifle can be multiple pounds on the finished system.

Also always try to make sure we discuss with the customer what general "type" of rifle is being built. Meaning what style of hunts are you bringing it on?
For me personally most of my high alpine, backcountry rifles are smaller calibers (300 WSM, 7 SAUM, 6.5 PRC) and those are my lightweight rifles. the weight to caliber selection of the rifle correlates to shootability. So any large 30 and 338 caliber rifles I would use the MG Element, equipped with a TR-2 or C-6 buttstock and ergo grip. The additional weight of the precision buttstock, and grip are well worth it on rifles with more recoil. You will be more accurate and comfortable no matter the position. these rifles usually also have slightly heavier, scopes, barrels, and muzzle devices.

Saving the weight on the chassis block helps allow me to add weight in other areas that aid in the performance of the rifle, which is usually the goal for the larger 30 and 338's. Canyon rifles for bear, elk, and deer that usually are in the lower country, and not a rifle I am usually packing in many miles with an extended stay.

Overall weights I choose to stay around on specifically built rifles.
- Smaller calibers 7 3/4 - 9 pounds scoped. "Ultralight long-range rifle"
*6.5's, short action magnums i.e. WSM/SAUMS
- Larger calibers 10-12 pounds scoped with bipod. "Medium weight extended range rifle"
*300 PRC, 300 RUM, 300 NM improved, larger Nosler's Weatherby's, etc...
Focus on long-range. If the rifle is going on a backcountry hunt and shooting past 300 yards is not in the books, then having different components, especially scopes, and having a sub-7 pound scoped rifle is great.

Thanks for the info. I’ll try to give y’all a call today to get it figured out.

 

[aaronoto]

Gonna bump this thread. Been talking to a few custom builders about building a 300 PRC on the 4.0 element chassis and have gotten the following different responses:

1) The chassis doesn’t handle recoil well; acts like a tuning fork.
2) The front end of the chassis will bend and make contact with the barrel if you load into the chassis to handle magnum rounds.
3) The chassis with the folder is too heavy and I should look at standard carbon stocks.
4) The chassis isn’t as accurate as standard bedded stocks and won’t handle the recoil as well.
5) Dont use it for magnum rounds, use it for short action calibers.

Can anyone provide input on this? Really would love to have a nice pack rifle in 300 PRC with the folding stock but I also want to make sure it shoots well too and doesn’t knock my shoulder off. Just don’t know if these different builders are letting bias towards traditional stocks create false narratives or are they actually correct?

Any input would be great.

I would be running away from any gunsmith that's giving you this kind of info on the XLR...

 

[Fever Buck]

I would be running away from any gunsmith that's giving you this kind of info on the XLR...

I won’t name anyone but I talked to some of the big names that get referred here pretty often. Those are the varying responses I got.

Glad I asked here though, I was pretty bummed with the options they were giving me.

 

[aaronoto]

I won’t name anyone but I talked to some of the big names that get referred here pretty often. Those are the varying responses I got.

Glad I asked here though, I was pretty bummed with the options they were giving me.

Interesting! For what it's worth, I've seen no difference in accuracy or any other ill affects between my gun in my Manners stock versus my XLR.

 

[Lawnboi]

@XLR

When’s the c6 stock coming? And what is the shortest they go?

Iv been wanting to try an envy for a long time on my match rifle. Might happen this year.

 

[XLR]

@XLR

When’s the c6 stock coming? And what is the shortest they go?

Iv been wanting to try an envy for a long time on my match rifle. Might happen this year.

We sure thought they would be ready by now!! Unfortunately the machine that we got specifically for them has been a POS. Got all the issues resolved finally and we are producing parts just need small batches of all the parts (lots of small stuff in the C-6) to be sent through all the processes. We can then test fit everything and make sure tolerances are still where they need to be.
Then off to mass production! So sadly no exact ETA... and being our "Spring of 22" release is already blown I do not want to mislead anyone. Really hope within 2 months.
If you are wanting to get an Envy on order give us a call. We can place the chassis order with the C-6 now over the phone. Lead time on all chassis orders is 25-30 weeks so sooner the better. Below are the LOP ranges.
- Fixed short LOP: 12-13
- Folding short LOP: 13.5 - 14.5
-Fixed standard: 13.5-14.5
-Folding Long: 15-16

 

[Lawnboi]

We sure thought they would be ready by now!! Unfortunately the machine that we got specifically for them has been a POS. Got all the issues resolved finally and we are producing parts just need small batches of all the parts (lots of small stuff in the C-6) to be sent through all the processes. We can then test fit everything and make sure tolerances are still where they need to be.
Then off to mass production! So sadly no exact ETA... and being our "Spring of 22" release is already blown I do not want to mislead anyone. Really hope within 2 months.
If you are wanting to get an Envy on order give us a call. We can place the chassis order with the C-6 now over the phone. Lead time on all chassis orders is 25-30 weeks so sooner the better. Below are the LOP ranges.
- Fixed short LOP: 12-13
- Folding short LOP: 13.5 - 14.5
-Fixed standard: 13.5-14.5
-Folding Long: 15-16

Puts me in a hard spot for LOP, I’m 13-13.5. Any way to get there and still have some adjustability in that range?

 

[XLR]

Puts me in a hard spot for LOP, I’m 13-13.5. Any way to get there and still have some adjustability in that range?

Unfortunately, there is not. Those LOP ranges vary slightly depending on where you measure the recoil lug and then the trigger that you are using. If you use a flat Timney vs a curved Triggertech you will get a completely different measurement. And then there are adjustable triggers too that allow you to change where the trigger shoe is. Obviously, this does change the relationship between the grip and trigger shoe but they are an option. I always like to shy on the shorter side because when you are out hunting or shooting in colder weather, your clothes are going to shorten the LOP. So even though I measure around 14 inches I still only run my rifle at a 13.5. Just a few things to keep in mind when you are making the decision but unfortunately that is kind of the buffer zone for choosing the LOP that you desire. If you need something with more LOP options our TR-2 buttstock is adjustable from 12-15 inches.

 

[Lawnboi]

Unfortunately, there is not. Those LOP ranges vary slightly depending on where you measure the recoil lug and then the trigger that you are using. If you use a flat Timney vs a curved Triggertech you will get a completely different measurement. And then there are adjustable triggers too that allow you to change where the trigger shoe is. Obviously, this does change the relationship between the grip and trigger shoe but they are an option. I always like to shy on the shorter side because when you are out hunting or shooting in colder weather, your clothes are going to shorten the LOP. So even though I measure around 14 inches I still only run my rifle at a 13.5. Just a few things to keep in mind when you are making the decision but unfortunately that is kind of the buffer zone for choosing the LOP that you desire. If you need something with more LOP options our TR-2 buttstock is adjustable from 12-15 inches.

I think I’ll go with the tr2 till I have a good idea what I really prefer. Does the c-6 plug in the same so I could change in the future if desired?

 

[XLR]

I think I’ll go with the tr2 till I have a good idea what I really prefer. Does the c-6 plug in the same so I could change in the future if desired?

Yessir, it is the same thread pitch and everything so you will be able to run either one on any of our chassis!

 

[skxf430]

Looking forward to getting my hands on one in the near future.

 

[Fever Buck]

I’m like a kid at Christmas.

 

[Fever Buck]

Had Fritz at Black Canyon Customs put my dream build together. Absolutely in love.