Would you buy this scope?

[prm]

This reticle

 

[112Savage]

What is the intended use of the Aim long (or whatever it’s called) circle (1mil below)?

Approximately 300 yard shots quickly without dialing?

 

[khuber84]

This reticle
View attachment 1011829

1 mil square, I'm unsure. Call it the short range "kill box"? Get a shortish range target in the center the box and send it?

 

[Formidilosus]

This reticle
View attachment 1011829

It has specific purpose in the original THLR. And, it still can do that in this version- but it is a very quick, yet unobtrusive way to mark the 1 mil spot.

 

[HuntHarder]

Really building this scope up. I am hopeful it lives up to the hype! Appreciate the glass quality pictures. They look crisp and great clarity.

 

[prm]

Thanks.

 

[BAKPAKR]

With the lighting and the textured wall here it was difficult to get a clear picture of the reticle.

8x
View attachment 1008351

If you get a chance, please post a photo of the reticle on 6X against some outside background. That is what my scope is usually on when I am walking around. Thanks!

 

[tysonES]

With a nominal 6.5cm your 100 yard zero would put the aim long at 280, conversely if you dialed a mil the aim long dot would be at 390 I think the idea is you look at the terrain you're sitting over and dial your most likely distance and then use aim long as a way to rapidly engage further

 

[wysongdog]

Any chance we can take it outside at dusk at the expo and look thru it?

 

[TX_Diver]

Today, setting sun, pretty nasty flare conditions.

View attachment 1011718

Pictures are pretty good representation of what was seen- the NF 4-16x ATACR was maybe 10% better in real life than the pictures show, and is also old. It is one of the first that they made. The S2H is very close to what it was in real life- it might have been 5% worse than the pictures. An obvious and noticeable difference.



Both scopes set at 16x


NF 4-16x ATACR-
View attachment 1011713



S2H-
View attachment 1011714



When not looking at the sun, the images between them were similar- sometimes it seems the NF was better, sometimes the S2H seemed better. But, for whatever reason, the S2H controlled glare noticeably better.

Any chance of some comparison pics to the SWFA 3-9 Milquad at 3 and 9 in the next few weeks?

 

[Formidilosus]

Any chance of some comparison pics to the SWFA 3-9 Milquad at 3 and 9 in the next few weeks?

Sure, what are you looking for?

 

[Formidilosus]

Really building this scope up. I am hopeful it lives up to the hype! Appreciate the glass quality pictures. They look crisp and great clarity.

I hope there is no hype. I’m writing what is happening- if anything trending to be conservative about it.


The 4-16x ATACR has never been super good at sun flare control at low angle, but I was surprised to see how good the S2H handles it. It was noticeably different. Again, it is possible that the NF’s glass is old and showing age.

It has a pretty large range of acceptable focus/clarity and parallax, but because of that it is a bit more touchy to get all parallax removed. When I mean acceptable- it’s easy to get the PA so that the parallax movement when moving your eye to the extreme sides of the scope- to about the thickness of the thin lines- less than 1/2 MOA. But, it’s not so obvious where it needs to be to get all of it removed. Now this is not a functional issue, just noting it- and it probably has to do with how much +/- on the PA knob gets a good image.

 

[benconfused]

S2H-
View attachment 1011714

Man I love that reticle.

 

[Dualsight]

This is driving me nuts (and it's a short trip), so I'm just going to throw it out there.

• Consider changing the increment of illumination to "loop" (1-2-3-4-5-1-2-3-4-5...) rather than subsequent presses (1-2-3-4-5-4-3-2-1). Some, like me, do not like (putting it mildly) the button but understand the weight savings and bulk. If you press one too many times and miss the intentional setting, do you really want to cycle 9x to get back to where you want it set? The "loop" is about half that many presses.
• Consider illuminating more than just the center dot.
  • One, when illumination is needed just illuminating the center dot, does it not eliminate seeing all the windage markings? If the center dot is not visible under the ambient conditions, how are the windage marks visible?
  • Two, maybe a lot of you are not old enough or just haven't experienced it yet; by mid 40's around 33% start to experience astigmatism; at mid 60's that jumps to 67% and rapidly increases as one gets older. Depending on the severity, the illuminated red dot no longer appears as a dot. The non-illuminated black etched dot is fine, but a single red illuminated dot is useless. Illuminating a greater area forces the brain to take in more information somewhat mitigating the center dot explosion/starburst/comet appearance.
• Consider either a choice of either red or green illumination or integrating both as Nightforce does in the NX6 line. Why? The worst color for colorblind people is red. Also, green greatly mitigates the explode/starburst/comet appearance for astigmatism. Illumination is great to have, and I know green consumes more energy, but is Illumination needed all the time?

I see a large comet on all illuminated red center dots no matter how great the glass. Non-illuminated black is crystal clear. For me a crosshair is better, if illuminated and the color is green it's great!

Everything else on this S2H scope is fantastic and would not bother me at all if there was an upcharge for an option with the above features.

Note: Edited for grammar.

 

[Dualsight]

I was going to add a few examples of a more illuminated reticle and forgot. Here are two:

 

[pattimusprime22]

Hawkins.



Hmm I’ve used several sets of them. Were you torquing to a minimum of 25in-lbs on the ring caps?

If you had to pick between those hawkins ultralight tactical and the UM premier rings, what's your choice?

 

[Formidilosus]

If you had to pick between those hawkins ultralight tactical and the UM premier rings, what's your choice?

Neither.

 

[Formidilosus]

This is driving me nuts (and it's a short trip), so I'm just going to throw it out there.

• Consider changing the increment of illumination to "loop" (1-2-3-4-5-1-2-3-4-5...) rather than subsequent presses (1-2-3-4-5-4-3-2-1). Some, like me, do not like (putting it mildly) the button but understand the weight savings and bulk. If you press one too many times and miss the intentional setting, do you really want to cycle 9x to get back to where you want it set? The "loop" is about half that many presses.

I will ask about that.

• Consider illuminating more than just the center dot.
  • One, when illumination is needed just illuminating the center dot, does it not eliminate seeing all the windage markings? If the center dot is not visible under the ambient conditions, how are the windage marks visible?
  • Two, maybe a lot of you are not old enough or just haven't experienced it yet; by mid 40's around 33% start to experience astigmatism; at mid 60's that jumps to 67% and rapidly increases as one gets older. Depending on the severity, the illuminated red dot no longer appears as a dot. The non-illuminated black etched dot is fine, but a single red illuminated dot is useless. Illuminating a greater area forces the brain to take in more information somewhat mitigating the center dot explosion/starburst/comet appearance.

Appreciate the suggestion, but that’s a hard no. Just the center dot, and that it goes very dim was a requirement from us.


In light low enough that someone needs illumination, they should not be shooting far enough to need windage.
On top of that, illuminating more of the reticle blows out your vision and lose what is behind it.

• Consider either a choice of either red or green illumination or integrating both as Nightforce does in the NX6 line. Why? The worst color for colorblind people is red. Also, green greatly mitigates the explode/starburst/comet appearance for astigmatism. Illumination is great to have, and I know green consumes more energy, but is Illumination needed all the time?

I see a large comet on all illuminated red center dots no matter how great the glass. Non-illuminated black is crystal clear. For me a crosshair is better, if illuminated and the color is green it's great!

Everything else on this S2H scope is fantastic and would not bother me at all if there was an upcharge for an option with the above features.

Note: Edited for grammar.

Again, appreciate the suggestion, but that was discussed and decided against. Anything that adds complexity is not good for reliability or durability. It also adds cost, to an already very expensive scope- that is going to be sold way under what it should.

 

[pattimusprime22]

Neither.

Nightforce then? What's the durable/reliable choice for putting on a pic rail?

 

[Formidilosus]

Nightforce then? What's the durable/reliable choice for putting on a pic rail?

Yes- NF UL pic rings or whatever they call them now.