Wood arrows and crester

Joined
Jul 27, 2017
Messages
715
I want to build some wood arrows and am looking for a recommendation on what shafts to buy as far as quality and spine for my 60” Toelke chinook, 48@28- 28.75 draw, currently shoot axis with 200 up front cut to 31.5”.

Also, anyone have a crester for sale or know how to make a DIY one?
 

wytx

WKR
Joined
Feb 2, 2017
Messages
2,299
Location
Wyoming
Tapered Doug fir, sitka spruce. Go with 50-55# spine maybe. I prefer tapered arrows, 5/16 at nock end.
Surewood has hunter test packs with 3 different spines included.
Raptor Archery has Sitka spruce.
Rose City may have some pine shafts.
3Rivers carries other species as well.

Going to have to get some feathers too, I use left wing but it really doesn't matter much.
I have an old JoJan multi fletcher- 6 arrows at once saves time.

No cresting but I do fade the stain from darker at nock to natural at point end for seeing blood color better.

Now I shoot footed arrows. You don't want to go there, lol, unless you make your own.
 

SliverShooter

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jul 30, 2018
Messages
220
Location
Bozeman, Montana
I second Sherwood Shafts, Carson is great to to work with.

My recommendation is to call either The Footed Shaft (https://footedshaft.com/) or Addictive Archery (https://www.addictivearchery.com/) as a source for your arrow building materials, they both provide great personalized service. Both carry Sherwood Shafts.

Andy at Addictive Archery has the best tutorial for building arrows that I have found.
 

Btaylor

WKR
Joined
Jun 3, 2017
Messages
2,478
Location
Arkansas
Doug fir shafts from Surewood is what I shoot as well. Like was mentioned, it is worth ordering a test kit to work out your tuning.
 
Joined
Feb 21, 2015
Messages
693
Location
florida
I used to shoot tapered footed shafts. Absolute dead quiet and loved the sound of the thump and whack.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

SliverShooter

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Jul 30, 2018
Messages
220
Location
Bozeman, Montana
Looks like Andy will get you in the ballpark. There no exacts when a human is involved. Your release, type string, type bow, and actual
draw length ( most people think they draw farther than they do), along with numerous other things will affect the spine of your arrows.

Rule of thumbs, +/- 5 #’s for every:
-Inch of arrow over/under 28” (31.5 is 2.5)
-25 grains up front over/under 125 grains (200-125= 75, 75/25=3)

Your arrows would normally be 50-55# with a draw just over 28”
2.5 + 3 = 5.5
5.5 x 5 = 27.5
add the 50 + the 27.5 and you get a ball park starting point: 77.5#

If you follow the above math, you understand my thought process better than my wife.
 
OP
S
Joined
Jul 27, 2017
Messages
715
Looks like Andy will get you in the ballpark. There no exacts when a human is involved. Your release, type string, type bow, and actual
draw length ( most people think they draw farther than they do), along with numerous other things will affect the spine of your arrows.

Rule of thumbs, +/- 5 #’s for every:
-Inch of arrow over/under 28” (31.5 is 2.5)
-25 grains up front over/under 125 grains (200-125= 75, 75/25=3)

Your arrows would normally be 50-55# with a draw just over 28”
2.5 + 3 = 5.5
5.5 x 5 = 27.5
add the 50 + the 27.5 and you get a ball park starting point: 77.5#

If you follow the above math, you understand my thought process better than my wife.
Yup makes sense, thanks
 
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