Wilderness horseback preparation

[Buck197]

Hey guys, what’s the best way to prepare for extended periods on horseback? Going on 8 day wilderness hunt in Sep, and we are riding 20 miles in and then riding out from camp every morning. Assuming a sore a$$ is to be expected, but is there any core or leg work that can help prepare for long hours in a saddle?

You're from Western Iowa I see, welcome to drive a state over and get some riding time in, Might make you buy me a soda pop, but otherwise more than welcome, best way to get used to it is by riding, and not just fifteen minutes here and there. And after long stretches in the saddle, I highly suggest a good squat and stretch those knees.

 

[Buck197]

So, seeing some great advice here, ill add my two cents in, as usual. Everyo e has their own way. Most horses have been trained in a certain way. I try and stay off the reins, the reins are a cheat. Ride your body, the fellow that said slap em with the reins, I think he wordes it better, done it a million times, but if I might suggest, before you goto tapping em with the reins, try using leg pressure, squeeze your calves in, my horses are super light to leg pressure, every horse is different, so sorta feel it out, but I personally much prefer riding with my body. Make the good things easy on a horse and the hard things harder, it'll keep you from taking more drastic steps. Squeeze your calves in, my horses I can squeeze and push forward and mine react to it. Now the downside, not everyone trains horses to ride off the body, but id sure try that first...before tapping with reins, but thats just me.

 

[Buck197]

Stretching....stretching....stretching....Get flexible as possible....

Ever see a bronc rider that looks like a body builder.....Wiry is where it's at.

Stretch the joints.

Start now not month before

the knees and lower back, stretch em lots

 

[Buck197]

I’ve got the same deal going this fall, the only thing that hurts me riding is my dang knees! And I don’t know what to do to remedy it.

stretch em before, when you get off to pee, and after, squat down so your heels on your butt. Also, make sure your stirrups are adjusted properly, to short is harder on em.

 

[Buck197]

Little off topic but buy some cowboy boots. Aggressive vibram soles can kill you if you can't get your foot out.

I only ride in leather soled boots, day working big ranches in far West Texas, those robber soled work boots, that'll hang on a stirrup, theres a reason working cowboys wear leather, easier said than done for a pack in tho I'd imagine

 

[Indian Summer]

Someone mentioned getting off to walk once in awhile. On an 8 hour ride you’ll do that for sure. It’s way better than stopping for a break and standing still. So before you hit the trail tell your packer to give you a shout when there’s going to be a nice stretch of downhill trail. If a packer is pulling a string of animals he’ll stay in the saddle but there’s no reason you can’t hop off. As soon as you’re ready to get back on start looking for a good wide spot in the trail, maybe even with a big rock or downed tree on the side for a step stool and jump back in the saddle.

When people ask questions most of the answers are to do with the dangers of riding and the things to do to ease the pain. But there are definitely pros with the cons. Once a horse is on the trail he actually enjoys it. I guess it beats the hell out of standing around bored in a dusty pasture. Also being able to look around and enjoy the scenery while covering ground is great. Better than staring down for the next tripping hazard. And once you get the right muscles in the groove you’ll be good to go. Study the lay of the land if it’s daylight and let k for shooting stars and satellites if it’s dark out. Lol

 

[Indian Summer]

Speaking of riding in the dark.... I’d be interested to hear some different opinions about using headlamps while riding. ???

 

[Tobe_B]

Speaking of riding in the dark.... I’d be interested to hear some different opinions about using headlamps while riding. ???

I always pack a headlamp. I forgot one. A few years ago and rode out in the dark. Horse I was riding that night really knew the trail and didn’t need any guiding from me. I just let him pick his way out. Didn’t stop me from getting hit in the face by every branch I couldn’t see. The young mare I’m training up now does wonderful in the dark. Kind of like riding a bloodhound, she puts her nose down and can almost retrace her steps exactly. I’ll use her for night riding more this year. Some horses get bothered by the light at first but get over it pretty quickly. I think they’re really just good for keeping a rider dodging branches and trees and seeing upcoming obstacles.


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[jjohnsonElknewbie]

Another little tidbit of advice.....

When you first begin your week long relationship with said horse he is going to feel you out. Might even test you a little. The first test is where he determines if he can eat anytime he wants. The answer is NO! That causes problems. Trotting to play catch-up sucks. Him thinking he owns you is even worse.

So try this: When he goes to eat pop him with the reigns right away. Not a slow tug.... you’ll lose that battle as he’s WAY stronger. When you do that he’ll bring his head back up and I guarantee he’ll look back out of the corner of his eye. When he does you should be staring him right in the eyes and say out loud “That’s right dude I got my eye on you!” After that anytime he eats or does anything else snap those reigns and do the same thing. Even if he does nothing wrong but looks back jump right on it “That’s right asshole I’m watching your every move!”

It won’t take long at all for him to give up and decide that you’re the boss. Trust me on this I’ve used the method on some pretty bossy hosses!

I had clients try the butt kissing method. Giving their horse an apple or saying “Go ahead and have a bite to eat because I am your friend” If a horse could talk he’d laugh out loud and say “Suckerrrrr” Tough love is the ONLY way to end up on a horse that respects you. And that’s important.

That's great advice and thank you. Basically treat the horse with respect but don't take any $hit, sorta like training a bird dog.

 

[CAElkhunter]

I don't use a headlamp because my guides have told me that the horses see great in the dark and you don't want to mess with their night vision. In addition coming back at night they know exactly where to go to get back to their feed. It was really easy just letting them go.

 

[Rockydog]

Hey guys, what’s the best way to prepare for extended periods on horseback? Going on 8 day wilderness hunt in Sep, and we are riding 20 miles in and then riding out from camp every morning. Assuming a sore a$$ is to be expected, but is there any core or leg work that can help prepare for long hours in a saddle?

Agree with the just ride comments. however strengthening core will help a ton too. stomach and lower back.

 

[LaGriz]

CAElkhunter​

Senior Member​

JoinedOct 3, 2019Messages238
"I was on a wilderness hunt in Colorado and my horse liked the "rub the clients leg on the trail trees game".
I asked the guide if I should kick him or pull hard on the reins.....he smiles and said..."it is easier just to push
off the trees when you come to them...as he smiled at me". I also bought and bring my own scabbard because I have a 50mm objective scope. many of the scabbards wont fit that well."

This is a good point I missed in my earlier comments.

If your Scope has an Objective lens bigger then 40-42 MM, or a barrel longer than 22 inches, you may have a problem with fit in a standard scabbard. Buying your own may be the best option. Don't let them mount it upside down. I don't want the weight of the rifle pushing down on the scope and mounts. If you have quick detach mounts, consider a pre-fitted (pre mounted & sighted in) scope as a alterative to a back up weapon. The trend seems to be, longer barrels and muzzle brakes & suppressors. I don't see how these work in any scabbard.

IMHO: A scope the size and weight of a thermos bottle has no place on a wilderness hunt. Quality glass in a 2X10 or 3X9 configuration should be all you need on this style hunt. Ask your outfitter about the scabbards and have the dimensions of your rifle handy.

I like wood stocks, My walnut stocked M700 took a beating on these hunts. I look at the dents and imperfections now and remember those awesome events. My bias aside, a quality Synthetic stock is probably a better option.

Assuming this is a guided hunt you should be able to get into a reasonable distance of the game. If you shoot a .308 or .270 Win confidently. You should be good to go. Just use a tough controlled expansion bullet. I was of the mind set that my .280 was a near minimum when I planed my 1st elk hunt in the 1990's. With the wide variety of available loads, I'm less rigid on the cartridge minimum. If you shoot a .300 or similar magnum caliber WELL you will have the advantage of less wind drift and slightly more energy. Your weapon needs to fit in a rifle scabbard and be pleasant to carry. That in combination with a good pair of binoculars and good fitting boots will round out your kit or a wilderness hunt.

LaGriz

 

[CAElkhunter]

I bought this scabbard years ago from Outfitters supply in Columbia, MT. Trail Max.
It fits my Remington 300RUM model 700 with a muzzle break and 50 mm Leupold 3 x 18 scope no problem.
Never have to worry about my rifle as it is sturdy and easy to get a gun out of.

 

[Indian Summer]

I bought this scabbard years ago from Outfitters supply in Columbia, MT. Trail Max.
It fits my Remington 300RUM model 700 with a muzzle break and 50 mm Leupold 3 x 18 scope no problem.
Never have to worry about my rifle as it is sturdy and easy to get a gun out of.View attachment 280581

That’s the one to get. I have a 26 inch barrel and a 6.5-20 by 50 mm scope and it all slides right in there. Unlike leather scabbards it’s padded very well too. I run mine scope down. If your gun/scope can’t handle that there’s something wrong. For elk hunting which puts everything to the test I prefer a synthetic stock. Lighter and zero moisture absorption.

A wilderness hunt can mean long shots. Unless you know for sure you’ll be strictly timber hunting I’d certainly have a scope that was at least 12-14 power. They’re a great tool even for a 300 yard shot. Better to have a gun at a knife fight than a knife at a shootout right. But that a different subject.

Cardinal rule of elk hunting: Whether it’s the weather, the terrain, or the shot, hope for the best and prepare for the worst.

 

[CAElkhunter]

I agree with everything you have said. I have elk hunted for 25 years in all different conditions. My rifle has always been stainless steel barrel and synthetic stock. No pretty guns. I use the 3 X 18 50 mm because of light gathering in the critical Big Bull moments early and late. I shoot a 300 RUM because I shoot it well and recoil doesn't bother me. I always tell people to shoot the largest caliber you can shoot well on Elk for the reasons you state. Elk are beautiful tough creatures.

 

[rayporter]

boy, this went all over the topic. there are a few gold nuggets buried in here. your job is to sort out the elk nuggets from the golden ones.

 

[Brooks]

As far as using a headlamp I know guys who say they never use them but I use one all the time . We hunt elk in some steep, nasty country and even some of the trails are narrow, steep with slick rock we use headlamps all the time... horse might be able to see where he’s going but in the pitch dark you can’t see anything, low branches, trail or even if your on the right trail.
Of all the nights I’ve rode a horse with a headlamp shining I’ve never had any trouble with the horses. Of course GOOD horses will make you or break you.

 

[EdP]

Spandex pants help a lot to prevent hot spots. Put up your man pride and wear them as underwear at least for the long rides in and out. You can thank me later. Take along some antiboitic ointment and use it on the sore spots. Ride as much as you can for two to three months before your hunt. One problem is that riding for 2 hours gets you body accustomed to riding for 2 hours, not 8. Regardless, those 2 hours sessions 4 or 5 times a week for 2 to 3 months will get you more comfortable on a horse and that will make your trip a lot more pleasant.