Why might my rifle have lost zero

[stan_wa]

I don’t have a another reliable scope that I could use and considering they’re all over $1000 it’s a pretty penny to ask lol I could probably borrow one from a buddy, but then I can’t beat it up too much to see how well it holds cause I know under light use and normal range strips. It seems to be doing fine.

I got a 28 nos with about 700 rounds in it running retumbo estimated barrel life at 1 k

The Seekins rings are made from 7075, which is in my mind is good material choice because it’s more prone to crack than stretch. And has great strength

Oh and im shooting hand loads no change in load

I may have missed it, but what cartridge is your rifle chambered for? If it is a 'barrel burner' your barrel could be spent, or getting close to the end of its life, depending on strings of fire over its life.
Also, it has been suggested a few times about trying a different known scope on this rifle. This would be my next step, since it sounds like you have checked every screw / torque. All scope brands / models can fail.
Also, is this factory ammo or hand loads? If factory, same lot or new lot? If hand loads, then there is another list of things to check.

I don’t think the barrel is shot yet because the dope matches previous excursions once I got the scope zeroed. my understanding is that with a shot out barrel the first thing to go is long range consistency due to bc variation

I've seen a cracked set, form has posted that he has too, and he's mentioned the loss of zero from side impacts.

View attachment 717940

Based on the shape of the pic rail this failure does make total sense as that sharp corner is a stress concentrator.

 

[Castle Rock]

Look on the bright side of the equation, you won’t miss much
On the other hand if you were using a Leupy you would miss by the length of your arm or more

 

[LaHunter]

I have zero experience with the 28 Nosler, but reading about this cartridge and barrel life, 700-800 rounds may be getting really close to the end.

 

[Fireflyfishing]

I don’t think the barrel is shot yet because the dope matches previous excursions once I got the scope zeroed. my understanding is that with a shot out barrel the first thing to go is long range consistency due to bc variation

It looks like it’s still grouping, but with a different zero. This would indicate an optics issue, not a barrel/load issue.

 

[stan_wa]

I have zero experience with the 28 Nosler, but reading about this cartridge and barrel life, 700-800 rounds may be getting really close to the end.

Yeah it’s a seekins so I may have them re barrel it but I’ll get one more hunting season out of it.

 

[LaHunter]

It looks like it’s still grouping, but with a different zero. This would indicate an optics issue, not a barrel/load issue.

You are correct. I must have mis read the thread. I thought I read the groups had opened up.

 

[stan_wa]

You are correct. I must have mis read the thread. I thought I read the groups had opened up.

Your right that the 2 nd round of getting zeroed was worse, I was attempting to add variety in sholder , face and hand pressure to see if that was the cause of the shirt this opened the group because I was purposely screwing with form but the group was still not terrible 6 shots 1.2 “ ish

And we after getting zeroed it groups gray at 700 with prior dope aka mv measurements

 

[Chape1rm]

Your level and in parralax right?? If your certain on that I would ditch the rings and get either nightforce or vortex precision rings. Then run tracking board on your scope. Thats a solid scope known for durability, but everything breaks. Also a fouled throat in the chamber can also cause impact shifts. Run a nylon brush on a drill with break cleaner in the throat for 20 seconds and dry patch it a few times.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Vortex precision rings are made by seekins.

 

[Chape1rm]

Well then get the nightforce! Cant say I didnt learn anything today.

 

[huntsman22]

you still didn't learn how to spell 'brake' yet......

 

[Shortschaf]

you still didn't learn how to spell 'brake' yet......

give the guy a breighk

 

[stan_wa]

give the guy a breighk

I need lots of breagks so I support this, I couldn’t spell anything right if it wasn’t for the red squiggly lines

 

[stan_wa]

Your level and in parralax right?? If your certain on that I would ditch the rings and get either nightforce or vortex precision rings. Then run tracking board on your scope. Thats a solid scope known for durability, but everything breaks. Also a fouled throat in the chamber can also cause impact shifts. Run a nylon brush on a drill with break cleaner in the throat for 20 seconds and dry patch it a few times.

I talked to trijicon and they said I probably didn’t use my parallax right. It seems that unlikely that’s the case as I usually adjust it but I’ll check that again.
Seems to me more likely the scope
Is the issue than the rings if they are not cracked

 

[Chape1rm]

I talked to trijicon and they said I probably didn’t use my parallax right. It seems that unlikely that’s the case as I usually adjust it but I’ll check that again.
Seems to me more likely the scope
Is the issue than the rings if they are not cracked

I agree, try the easy cheap stuff first! Maybe I missed it but I didnt see a level in the pics of your scope. If your not using one Id highly recommend the vortex low profile level mounted in front of your front ring. Youll be able to see it and your target at the same time. Being out of level just a little bit even at 100yds can open and shift groups. I wouldnt rely on your what your scope says you should set your parallax at based on yardage either. Instead look through your scope and shake your head slightly up and down like your saying yes and adjust parallax until your reticle and target are locked together. That will be your true parallax and most repeatable accuracy. Hope its a free and easy fix for ya!

 

[stan_wa]

Got a level in the rail but yes thanks for the tips

I agree, try the easy cheap stuff first! Maybe I missed it but I didnt see a level in the pics of your scope. If your not using one Id highly recommend the vortex low profile level mounted in front of your front ring. Youll be able to see it and your target at the same time. Being out of level just a little bit even at 100yds can open and shift groups. I wouldnt rely on your what your scope says you should set your parallax at based on yardage either. Instead look through your scope and shake your head slightly up and down like your saying yes and adjust parallax until your reticle and target are locked together. That will be your true parallax and most repeatable accuracy. Hope its a free and easy fix for ya!

 

[Chape1rm]

Got a level in the rail but yes thanks for the tips

Let us know when you resolve it and what the issue was!

 

[Formidilosus]

@stan_wa

Take everything apart, degrease thoroughly. Use a paint pen or nail polish instead of blue loctite- it works better. Torque the action screws to 65in-lbs, the rings screws as you had them (though relatively rare, I have seen several issues from Seekins rings).

Then do a 18” or so drop check on grass.



Parallax didn’t cause that.

Not cleaning a barrel didn’t cause that.

Bipod load didn’t cause that.

Environmentals didn’t cause that- a 100 yard zero is a 100 yard zero everywhere on earth.

 

[stan_wa]

@stan_wa

Take everything apart, degrease thoroughly. Use a paint pen or nail polish instead of blue loctite- it works better. Torque the action screws to 65in-lbs, the rings screws as you had them (though relatively rare, I have seen several issues from Seekins rings).

Then do a 18” or so drop check on grass.



Parallax didn’t cause that.

Not cleaning a barrel didn’t cause that.

Bipod load didn’t cause that.

Environmentals didn’t cause that- a 100 yard zero is a 100 yard zero everywhere on earth.

Form thanks for that advice that pretty much lines up exactly with what I was thinking. I wish I was at the range today but I’m trying to paint the house this weekend and I paint about as good as I shoot … so it’s taking the whole weekend . I’ll report back

 

[TOLeary]

Take everything apart, degrease thoroughly. Use a paint pen or nail polish instead of blue loctite- it works better. Torque the action screws to 65in-lbs, the rings screws as you had them (though relatively rare, I have seen several issues from Seekins rings).

Are you putting the paint/polish on the treads? I’m only asking because I’ve seen pictures of yours with the paint on top of the screw head and surrounding it