Which lens to take on upcoming hunt?

[Pasty_Man_Thighs]

Newbie camera owner here and also new to western hunting. Heading out to Colorado for an OTC 2nd rifle hunt and I keep debating on whether or not to bring along my camera or just stick with my phone for photos (iPhone 11 pro). I have a Sony a6600 with two lenses: the Sony 16-50mm f/3.5-5.6 lens and the Sony 55-210 f/4.5-6.3 lens. I'm very much a newbie when it comes to photography so my photo use is generally just snapping pictures while out hiking and family events so feel free to school me on which of these would be best for taking trophy pics, maybe some small snips of video footage of the hunt/around camp, just fairly basic stuff.

Is it worth it to drag both lenses along for the hunt or am I better off just picking one that will be a good enough do it all setup. We plan on doing mostly truck camping and venturing out each day, maybe spike out if we get out far. I'm a bit of a worry wort when it comes to not breaking my gear, so I plan to keep the camera handy on my peak design clip on my shoulder when I know we may want photos/video but also carrying some level of case/protection in my pack when we won't be wanting pics (Exo 4800 pack). I know these two lenses are probably not the most ideal lenses to have, but they are 'good enough for now' for me and my use case. I may look at upgrading to something different in the future if there are better options that suit my use case but I got this as a gift so just trying to learn how to use everything for now.

I appreciate any and all advice, since I'm really new to all of this (western hunting and photography).

 

[Berger024]

I would take only one lens. Your 16-50 will work well to capture the landscape and it's a faster lens (f3.5) plus you can always crop in on your image a little in post-production if you wanted.
Auto settings take amazing pictures, but learn how to use manual settings. You'll have free creative control over the image. Don't rush photos, take time and crop in camera. Shooting manual will allow *you* to select the depth of field and exposure.
If you have funds available I would get a prime lens that is faster f1.4, 1.8 or 2.0. This will allow you to shoot hand held around dusk and dawn and will really blow the background out (depth of field) and make it blurry.
Learn how shutter speed, F stop and ISO all work together to make a photograph. Another good rule of thumb is to never shoot below 1/60 shutter speed handheld or your images will be blurry. Sometimes you can cheat this a little by holding very still and having your subject hold very still. F stops that are low require less light by opening the aperture up and giving you a shallow depth of field, while a higher f stop constricts the aperture requiring more light, but gives a greater depth of field and sharper images further out...There is a science to it and you'll make much better photos more often if you understand what you're doing, rather than just being "pleasantly surprised" by what the camera randomly churns out in an auto setting.

Good luck!

 

[Hunt_Jefferson]

I would take only one lens. Your 16-50 will work well to capture the landscape and it's a faster lens (f3.5) plus you can always crop in on your image a little in post-production if you wanted.
Auto settings take amazing pictures, but learn how to use manual settings. You'll have free creative control over the image. Don't rush photos, take time and crop in camera. Shooting manual will allow *you* to select the depth of field and exposure.
If you have funds available I would get a prime lens that is faster f1.4, 1.8 or 2.0. This will allow you to shoot hand held around dusk and dawn and will really blow the background out (depth of field) and make it blurry.
Learn how shutter speed, F stop and ISO all work together to make a photograph. Another good rule of thumb is to never shoot below 1/60 shutter speed handheld or your images will be blurry. Sometimes you can cheat this a little by holding very still and having your subject hold very still. F stops that are low require less light by opening the aperture up and giving you a shallow depth of field, while a higher f stop constricts the aperture requiring more light, but gives a greater depth of field and sharper images further out...There is a science to it and you'll make much better photos more often if you understand what you're doing, rather than just being "pleasantly surprised" by what the camera randomly churns out in an auto setting.

Good luck!

Funny, I would have the opposite approach and take the 55-210mm if I'm picking between the two. The Iphone 11pro will take pretty good landscapes and camp photos but the one thing phones can't do is zoom. I would bring both and just leave the 16-50 in the truck in case you find an amazing vista that you really want to use the camera on.

Agree with the rest of your post though.

 

[Lambfish]

The wider lens will be better for object close by and landscapes but will leave you wanting if you are trying to photograph wildlife more than a few feet away. I think @Hunt_Jefferson hit the nail on the head, use your phone for the close stuff and keep the longer lens to get some reach. Long term, maybe look at getting a more versatile lens such as the sony 18-105 f/4 G. You can find these used for <$500 and you will have better image quality.

 

[Berger024]

@Pasty_Man_Thighs All responses are correct. I guess it comes down to what you are looking to photograph and what you would like to potentially do with the images after the hunt? I agree the iPhone will allow for decent landscapes and allow you to print maybe an 11x17 or a little bigger pretty well. If you are looking to capture animals and things at a distance, the zoom will come in handy. I was thinking primarily of photographing your hunting buddy, yourself, and the elk/muley/whatever after you've had a successful hunt. People rarely print images anymore, so if you're just posting on Facespace and Insta, go the route the others suggested and you'll be fine.
I have made photo books from my hunts and an iPhone will do just fine with prints that size. Take your time and make photographs from start to finish on your trip and you'll have a nice visual storyboard to look back on in the years to come. You'll be glad you took the time to make them. Good luck.

 

[Pasty_Man_Thighs]

Appreciate all the input everyone!

 

[bowhuntrben]

I’ve tried carrying a camera in the past and find it to be too big and bulky for my liking and it would just stay in the truck after Day 1. I now just carry a point and shoot. I don’t know how big your camera is, but I don’t imagine it hurts to bring it along and give it a try to see if it works for you. I’d pick the longer lens as I’d be interested in trying for wildlife shots. Use your phone for a wider view shot.

 

[idcuda]

If you're on Facebook, join the "Sony a6600 Shooters" group. I'm in the a6400 group and it's great for tips, tricks, and lens info.

 

[RS_Non-Res]

Study about *composition* and *light* before worrying too much about specialized gear.
After you know (see in your mind's eye) the image that you want to create, then you figure out how to make your camera do what you want.

The gear choice can become a tradeoff between usability and image quality. My subcompacts have produced the most good pictures for documenting a hunt because they're easy to carry, I don't worry about banging them around a bit, they're easy to whip out and snap a pic, and the images are good enough. My phone sux too many electrons to be useful in the woods.

Canon 70D (15mm to 400mm with several lenses),
iPhone 6
Nikkormat FT3 w/100 f2.8
Panasonic Lumix DMC-LZ8
Canon Powershot ElPH 170 IS

 

[charliebravo77]

I wrestle with this question all the time. I've tried carrying just a cell phone, go pros, a dslr with a wide range zoom (18-135mm), a dslr with big fast glass (18-35/1.8 and 70-200/2.8) and I think I have finally hit on the best balance with what I took with me to Nebraska last month in the Fuji X100V. It's a rangefinder style camera with a fixed 23/2.0 lens which is pretty wide but also just tight enough to be useful. It's the 35mm full frame equivalent. What really sealed the deal for me is that it's weather sealed and the fixed lens means I don't have to worry about water or dust/sand ingress when swapping lenses. The APS-C sensor is bigger than most point and shoots and the same size as many consumer and prosumer DSLR/mirrorless bodies so it's got acceptable low light sensitivity and you can get shallow depth of field with the f2 lens. The biggest advantage is that there's nothing to screw with. No swapping lenses because you're too close or too far, no fiddling with zoom to compose just the right shot and missing a moment. Just. Take. The. Photo.

You could accomplish the same thing with a mirrorless body and a fixed 24-40mm pancake lens if you already have a mirrorless/dslr body.

It's not a replacement for a mirrorless or DSLR body with an assortment of lenses in the quiver but it does make carrying a capable camera, albeit with some sacrifices, a lot easier in the field, traveling or wherever you go. The best camera is the one you have with you and can use at the drop of a hat.

Here's some examples from my X100V, hunting and otherwise.

 

[Fienix]

OP, I'm in the exact same boat as you gear wise, trying to figure out what to bring. Carrying two lenses (extra weight and side) and worrying about swapping doesn't sound like a great time.

I think charliebravo77 just convinced me to get a 24mm prime. Benefits being less weight, takes up less space, no swapping lenses, readily available, forces me to think about the shot more than just zoom in and click.

Great photos by the way.

 

[Kitten]

I would take the 16-50 if you are looking to shoot more of a landscape style with the occasional medium range shot. If you want wildlife, your longer lens might not even be enough for detailed long distance wildlife. Most wildlife shooters use something between 600mm and 800mm it seems. This is my opinion, but not fact.

 

[ccc9092]

Previous photojournalist, 24-105 is the most widely used glass in the field. It's what I still take in the field with me.

 

[Kitten]

Previous photojournalist, 24-105 is the most widely used glass in the field. It's what I still take in the field with me.

On full frame, this is an excellent general use lens. I use it on my Canon all the time. When I want wide, I go with the 16-35.

 

[opalfan]

My favorite lens for outdoor shoots is my 24-70mm. I use it for 80% of my photos. A great all-arounder. It is good for landscapes, portraits...even weddings!

 

[dmike]

I was invited to shadow a CO archery elk hunt, I brought every lens with me- 16-35, 25 f2, 35 f1.4, 55 f1.8, 24-70, 70-200....- humped them around the mountain, only lenses I used were the 24-70 and the 50mm. I ran the 24-70 when we were hiking and glassing, the 351.4 for an after dark meat pack out, and planned on swapping to the 70-200 if we saw elk.

I came to a quick realization that seeing animals meant going into sneaky sneaky mode, aka not a good time to whip out the backpack and swap lenses. I also realized 70-200 wouldn't have been enough reach to really get the caliber of wildlife shots I desired.

On the 4 hunts I've done since, the camera has stayed at home, the focus has been the hunt, and snagging candids along the way with a quick reach to the pocket for the iPhone.

Re: long lens- if I've got a tag in my pocket and a shooter walks out, I'll be reaching for the rifle, not the camera...but that's just me.

 

[DwnZero]

Both lenses fairly light?
As a wedding photographer of 15 years I found my most used lens is a 24-70 and a 70-200. Both heavy lenses. If I were to take one of yours it would be the 16-50.
Might be able to pick up a 50mm 1.8 for a relatively low price (cannon and Nikon have their versions) Anything f1.2 or 1.4 will be much heavier and more $$

Focus on composition and exposure. Check out Ansel Adams Greyscale.

Happy Shooting on both fronts!

 

[WLD]

I wrestle with this question all the time. I've tried carrying just a cell phone, go pros, a dslr with a wide range zoom (18-135mm), a dslr with big fast glass (18-35/1.8 and 70-200/2.8) and I think I have finally hit on the best balance with what I took with me to Nebraska last month in the Fuji X100V. It's a rangefinder style camera with a fixed 23/2.0 lens which is pretty wide but also just tight enough to be useful. It's the 35mm full frame equivalent. What really sealed the deal for me is that it's weather sealed and the fixed lens means I don't have to worry about water or dust/sand ingress when swapping lenses. The APS-C sensor is bigger than most point and shoots and the same size as many consumer and prosumer DSLR/mirrorless bodies so it's got acceptable low light sensitivity and you can get shallow depth of field with the f2 lens. The biggest advantage is that there's nothing to screw with. No swapping lenses because you're too close or too far, no fiddling with zoom to compose just the right shot and missing a moment. Just. Take. The. Photo.

You could accomplish the same thing with a mirrorless body and a fixed 24-40mm pancake lens if you already have a mirrorless/dslr body.

It's not a replacement for a mirrorless or DSLR body with an assortment of lenses in the quiver but it does make carrying a capable camera, albeit with some sacrifices, a lot easier in the field, traveling or wherever you go. The best camera is the one you have with you and can use at the drop of a hat.

Here's some examples from my X100V, hunting and otherwise.

Nice pics

 

[username_69]

I'd take my DSLR with 24-105mm lens BUT my problem has always been is I'm carrying too much stuff with me into the field. I think WLD has the best response so far. A camera that balances capability, size, and weight is the answer.

 

[charliebravo77]

I just got back from a WY pronghorn and despite a very strong desire to drag along my new R7 and assortment of big lenses I decided to continue to practice what I preached in this thread and only took my X100V.

Full recap here: https://www.rokslide.com/forums/thr...ss-if-you-dont-use-them-wy-trip-recap.279785/