Which gun would you take?

[medvedyt]

Which model Tikka do you have?

a t3x

https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/tikka-9-3x62.392945/page-2#post-4229670

and details here:

M

Post in thread 'Let's See Your Semi-Custom Tikka Builds'

May 23, 2025

the project left hand 9.3x62 tikka t3x is alive:

boyds laminate stock
remington 700 open sights
barrel switched from a tikka t3x righ hand
PR precision Tikka t3/t3x winter trigger guard

and all put together by Paul of PR precision.

​

• medvedyt

• 

 

[PA Hunter]

I would take the .300 my friend made the mistake taking his 375 Ruger few years ago didnt have the range and wounded a moose. Easily would of had it with his 7mm. Moose are not hard to kill just take a bit to fall over with their large lungs.

 

[z987k]

a t3x

https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/tikka-9-3x62.392945/page-2#post-4229670

and details here:

M

Post in thread 'Let's See Your Semi-Custom Tikka Builds'

May 23, 2025

the project left hand 9.3x62 tikka t3x is alive:

boyds laminate stock
remington 700 open sights
barrel switched from a tikka t3x righ hand
PR precision Tikka t3/t3x winter trigger guard

and all put together by Paul of PR precision.

​

• medvedyt

• 

The tikka is blued? I wouldn't take that on a float hunt.

Either rifle is fine, although the 300wm is wildly overscoped.

Barring the rust issue, bring the one you're most accurate with. Personally both rifles are wild overkill in cambering, but the 375 ruger is a little more cool.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I would take the .300 my friend made the mistake taking his 375 Ruger few years ago didnt have the range and wounded a moose. Easily would have had it with his 7mm. Moose are not hard to kill just take a bit to fall over with their large lungs.

The gun didn’t have the range? Or your buddy didn’t have the skill/practice with that rifle to make a good shot???

 

[thinhorn_AK]

The tikka is blued? I wouldn't take that on a float hunt.

Either rifle is fine, although the 300wm is wildly overscoped.

Barring the rust issue, bring the one you're most accurate with. Personally both rifles are wild overkill in cambering, but the 375 ruger is a little more cool.

Yeah, both are overkill….he should take a 223.

 

[medvedyt]

The tikka is blued? I wouldn't take that on a float hunt.

Either rifle is fine, although the 300wm is wildly overscoped.

Barring the rust issue, bring the one you're most accurate with. Personally both rifles are wild overkill in cambering, but the 375 ruger is a little more cool.

it is a stainless action and stainless barell ... but i ve taken blued rifles with wood on float hunt ...

 

[TimberHunter]

The tikka is blued? I wouldn't take that on a float hunt.

Either rifle is fine, although the 300wm is wildly overscoped.

Barring the rust issue, bring the one you're most accurate with. Personally both rifles are wild overkill in cambering, but the 375 ruger is a little more cool.

Question… I have a stainless tikka and pretty sure it has blued action screws. I’ve seen those screws rust before, do you know of any better options?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[NWBLKTAIL]

Question… I have a stainless tikka and pretty sure it has blued action screws. I’ve seen those screws rust before, do you know of any better options?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There’s plenty after market action screw options just dig around on the internet

-mtn tatical
-lumley
-Hawkins precison
-ja outdoors

Just to name a few

 

[AKAV8R]

More important than caliber is scope choice for the terrain you’ll be hunting, and if you’re recoil sensitive. My 375 wears an old 1x4 and has killed dozens of moose and bears, typically under 100 yds in or near thick brushy drainages (rivers). A 1-6 would be tough to beat on either rifle. It’s not difficult to stretch the 375 out to a bit over 300.

 

[medvedyt]

Question… I have a stainless tikka and pretty sure it has blued action screws. I’ve seen those screws rust before, do you know of any better options?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

you can get them from tikka in stainless if you need.

 

[Yukon Cornelius]

This doesn't make sense to me. I don't see a 300WM (as a cartridge) being "bigger" than a .375 Ruger in any way. The .375 Ruger was designed to duplicate the .375 H&H in a non-belted case. "The .300 Winchester Magnum was created by shortening and necking down the .375 H&H Magnum case to accept a .30 caliber bullet..." Are you thinking Marlin Guide Gun???

I also would pick the .375 guide gun especially if it is SS and the 300WM Tikka is not.

Bigger than is needed doesn’t mean it is bigger than the 375. It’s bigger than is needed.

 

[EdP]

Bigger than is needed doesn’t mean it is bigger than the 375. It’s bigger than is needed.

Yes, he clarified that.

 

[Jethro]

Take the 375. If you don’t carry it on a float moose hunt, whats the point of owning it?

 

[Robinhood21]

I think it would depend on the area you're hunting and what point in the season. Rut hunt where calling is key or earlier in the season where spot and stalk is your method? If spot and stalk I would take the 300wm w/ Nightforce in case of longer shots.

We hunt earlier in the year so longer shots are more possible.

 

[TaperPin]

Unless you’re so limited on weight and an extra 8 lbs is a deal killer, I’d hunt with the 300 and have the iron sighted 375 at camp. Take the barreled action out of the stock and pack it in a bag along with a screwdriver if you have to and assemble at your drop off location. I sleep better with an iron sighted larger bore rifle. Once your moose is down the 300 can stay in camp as it’s packed down to the boat. I also feel better carrying an iron sighted rifle if bears are around, not to mention it’s twice as easy to carry. Of course there is no right or wrong answer as both rifles are quite capable.

 

[Snowwolfe]

Been hunting with 375 bore rifles since building my first one in 1979. This was a left hand 375/338. Never once felt like I had the wrong rifle in my hands when hunting for Alaska moose or brown/grizzly bear. It is especially comforting holding a 375 in your hand when walking back to a moose kill or seeing a grizzly walking around camp with his nose in the air sniffing.
Can't think of one time I turned down a shot because a moose or bear was to far away to shoot.

 

[Trail&ErrorAK]

Just weighing in for fun - I'd take the one you've shot the most and would be more meaningful to you.
You are coming up to Alaska to hunt, what would make the experience mean more too you?

As everyone has stated either will get the job done - I got mine this year with my 280 AI - and if that is your only consideration which one would mean more?
You can also examine hunt conditions and how your gun will fare - blued, stainless, cerakoted. Wood Stock vs Synthetic. If you don't mind the gun getting beat up a little - bring a little oil soaked into a rag and something like a boresnake. But I'd say since either is good enough - which is going to mean more.

 

[Sako76]

Following, I’m going on an Alaskan moose hunt in 2026 with Canoe Bay Outfitters. It will be a fly-in hunt and hunt out of tents or cabins on the river. Brown bears are plentiful. I have narrowed my choices down to a 375 Ruger Alaskan that shoots 250 grain Barnes TTSX in tight groups or a Legendary Arms Works in 300 WM that shoots the Barnes 180 grain TTSX great.

The outfitter recommended a 338 WM which I don’t have and I’m a bit recoil sensitive. The LAW has a brake and the Ruger doesn’t. The outfitter said most shots are 50-150 yards with an occasional 300 yard shot, I know both rifles can handle that distance easily.

I also have an Alamo Precision custom in 300 Weatherby that shoots 200 grain Accubond’s great, the only issue is this rifle with a NF is around 10 lbs. scoped, not sure I want to carry that rifle for 10 days.

The LAW has a 4-32 NF NX8 SFP scope and the Ruger has a Leupold VX-3 2-5-8 which fits it perfectly but I’m thinking of going with a NF 2-10x 42. The outfitter doesn’t recommend taking two rifles (fly-in weight)? His camp gun is a 375 RUM with a brake that he says flattens everything.

Still in the figuring out stage!