Which AICS bottom metal and magazines for my T3x?

[Formidilosus]

Got it.

Does that mean that the Bravo only really is a contender for you if you add their Tool-less Buttpad Height Mechanism (https://kineticresearchgroup.com/product/tool-less-pad/)?

Nah, the Bravo is better designed for several reasons, and raising the buttpad is as simple as popping a new hole in the pad.

 

[Dobermann]

Nah, the Bravo is better designed for several reasons, and raising the buttpad is as simple as popping a new hole in the pad.

Thanks Form. If you have the time, would be interested to hear your thoughts on what aspects of the Bravo's design you consider better than the Hi-Tec carbon competition ... I recently built a field comp gun based on a CRT and X-Ray. At 15lb total weight, it's fairly manageable, but I'm interested in an even lighter-weight configuration for field shoots.

 

[Formidilosus]

would be interested to hear your thoughts on what aspects of the Bravo's design you consider better than the Hi-Tec carbon competition ...

Swiped photo from Brownells.



The Bravo offers a vertical grip, the ability to have the recoil pad inline with the bore, the forend parallel with bore, and underside of buttstock is close to parallel.

The butt pad height, and parallel forend and buttstock all help the gun recoil straight to the rear. Think about a rifle on a rest- bags, pack, whatever; aimed center of target, when the rifle moves to the rear during recoil, the angled forend and underside of stock make the rifle slide down in the rear/up in the front, causing the target to be lost during recoil.

 

[Dobermann]

Swiped photo from Brownells.
View attachment 367827


The Bravo offers a vertical grip, the ability to have the recoil pad inline with the bore, the forend parallel with bore, and underside of buttstock is close to parallel.

The butt pad height, and parallel forend and buttstock all help the gun recoil straight to the rear. Think about a rifle on a rest- bags, pack, whatever; aimed center of target, when the rifle moves to the rear during recoil, the angled forend and underside of stock make the rifle slide down in the rear/up in the front, causing the target to be lost during recoil.

Okay, now I'm intrigued. Played with a couple of the other Hi-Tec carbons and got similar offsets for the buttpad height as the Hi-Tec Tikka Competition stock on the previous page. (FWIW, these appeared to be about the same for the standard Tikka CTR stock as well, and possibly marginally higher than the T3x.)

How about the MDT HNT26?

 

[Formidilosus]

How about the MDT HNT26?

View attachment 368348

Recoil pad needs to be raised.


Pistol grip stocks in general have some less than ideal characteristics for general hunting. The big one is the grip. AR grips work on AR’s because all the controls can be accessed with the hand on the grip. Bolt rifles can not. Second, the underside of the buttstock should be parallel to the bore and longer. Third, metal sucks to carry and touch in the cold.

 

[Helislacker]

Recoil pad needs to be raised.

Pistol grip stocks in general have some less than ideal characteristics for general hunting. The big one is the grip. AR grips work on AR’s because all the controls can be accessed with the hand on the grip. Bolt rifles can not. Second, the underside of the buttstock should be parallel to the bore and longer. Third, metal sucks to carry and touch in the cold.

Shite, I just ordered a HNT 26 for my Tikka CTR. Wanted to just drop the barreled action topped with 4-20 ATACR between my ESS chassis (for field matches) and the 26 for hunting. I really like folders for backpacking but your views surrounding proper design on these and other hunting chassis’ makes sense. When you say controls, does that include the bolt itself? Or just safety/trigger? I’ve got large hands and can manipulate the trigger/safety without issues on my ESS, so maybe that mitigates some of these design issues.

 

[Formidilosus]

When you say controls, does that include the bolt itself? Or just safety/trigger? I’ve got large hands and can manipulate the trigger/safety without issues on my ESS, so maybe that mitigates some of these design issues.

All of it. Either shoot with thumb on strong side ala- PRS style, then you can manipulate the safety while staying in the gun, and work the bolt without regripping each time or wrap thumb around the grip, gain the recoil and control benefit but have to lose the grip to manipulate the safety and regrip to work the bolt- The cost for keeping them on strong side is that you lose recoil control and control of the rifle with the strong hand.


The strong hand thumb, really base of thumb, provide a noticeable increase in recoil control and significantly more control in handling the rifle with the strong hand.

 

[Helislacker]

Recoil pad needs to be raised.

Shite, I just ordered a HNT 26 for my Tikka CTR. Wanted to just drop the barreled action topped with 4-20 ATACR between my ESS chassis (for field matches) and the 26 for hunting. I really like folders for backpacking but your views surrounding proper design on these and other hunting chassis’ makes sense. When you say controls, does that include the bolt itself? Or just safety/trigger? I’ve got large hands and can manipulate the trigger/safety without issues on my ESS, so maybe that mitigates some of these design issues. Also, I hear you on the cold. I’ve hunted in the -30s to -40’s and it’s basically impossible to use any type of aluminum chassis past -20 without immediately freezing your digits to a level that rivals sticking them in dry ice. The carbon fiber is apparently much better in the cold than the magnesium base, so that issue can be mitigated by grabbing the foreend on this chassis rather than the base itself.

All of it. Either shoot with thumb on strong side ala- PRS style, then you can manipulate the safety while staying in the gun, and work the bolt without regripping each time or wrap thumb around the grip, gain the recoil and control benefit but have to lose the grip to manipulate the safety and regrip to work the bolt- The cost for keeping them on strong side is that you lose recoil control and control of the rifle with the strong hand.


The strong hand thumb, really base of thumb, provide a noticeable increase in recoil control and significantly more control in handling the rifle with the strong hand.

Gotcha, this all makes a lot of sense. So with that, if you were in my situation and wanted to just drop the barreled CTR into something light enough for backpack hunting, which route would you take? I’ve had enough optics crap on me that I’m not willing to budge on the optic to go lighter. The ATACR just works, despite what half the guys and “optical experts” say on SH regarding lighter scopes from other companies. I’m not convinced any of them actually use their gear beyond barricade stages. Judging by the fitness levels of some of these guys I know they aren’t possibly getting into areas that actually would test optic reliability.

Given that, the light weight of the HNT 26 made it the only real option in my mind, with the integrated carbon arca being an added benefit for tripod use, as I shoot a lot off of tripod. Would you go a different route considering my use case? Thanks for your time.

 

[Formidilosus]

Given that, the light weight of the HNT 26 made it the only real option in my mind, with the integrated carbon arca being an added benefit for tripod use, as I shoot a lot off of tripod. Would you go a different route considering my use case? Thanks for your time.

To be clear, I’m not saying one can’t hunt with a pistol gripped stock. I’m saying that it’s not ideal for a general purpose bolt action.

I don’t use tripods much while hunting. Almost never. For chassis and general use the KRG Bravo has much to offer.

 

[TX_Diver]

To be clear, I’m not saying one can’t hunt with a pistol gripped stock. I’m saying that it’s not ideal for a general purpose bolt action.

I don’t use tripods much while hunting. Almost never. For chassis and general use the KRG Bravo has much to offer.

Have a favorite mag for the bravo while hunting (And general use?) found one on another site and was debating it… had one on a 700 I sold and didn’t ever actually use it before selling the rifle. Initial impression was good though.

What do you shoot from hunting btw? Obviously situation dependent but curious to your preference. Pack? Seated unsupported? Offhand?

 

[Formidilosus]

Have a favorite mag for the bravo while hunting (And general use?) found one on another site and was debating it… had one on a 700 I sold and didn’t ever actually use it before selling the rifle. Initial impression was good though.

I use AI 5 round in the gun, a 10 rounder in the bino harness. I would prefer if they took factory mags…

What do you shoot from hunting btw? Obviously situation dependent but curious to your preference. Pack? Seated unsupported? Offhand?

Prone off of a pack, seated/kneeling off the top of a pack, or seated/kneeling using a pack and hiking sticks together account for the vast majority of positions used on animals.

 

[Jimbee]

Are there any 300WSM magazine options for a Bravo chassis?

 

[Dobermann]

To be clear, I’m not saying one can’t hunt with a pistol gripped stock. I’m saying that it’s not ideal for a general purpose bolt action.

I don’t use tripods much while hunting. Almost never. For chassis and general use the KRG Bravo has much to offer.

Hi Form, are there any other stocks you like for hunting/field/crossover (ie, not heavy PRS-style) that meet the earlier criteria?

 

[Formidilosus]

Hi Form, are there any other stocks you like for hunting/field/crossover (ie, not heavy PRS-style) that meet the earlier criteria?

The Alterra is pretty good and the Gunwerks Clymer is probable the best designed available. There’s not many because much as in in other things, manufactures nor consumers shoot and understand what’s really happening.

 

[Lawnboi]

The Alterra is pretty good and the Gunwerks Clymer is probable the best designed available. There’s not many because much as in in other things, manufactures nor consumers shoot and understand what’s really happening.

Curious of your assessment of the eh1 for a tikka?

 

[Formidilosus]

Curious of your assessment of the eh1 for a tikka?

Stole this pic from ctsmith off the fire-




You can see that the buttstock in below the boreline. The forend is relatively parallel, the underside of the butt is angled. The grip angle is decent, however where the Clymer for instance really differs is the scalloping on the sides and top of the grip to allow your thumb to lay correctly to the tang.

 

[Lawnboi]

Stole this pic from ctsmith off the fire-

View attachment 381437


You can see that the buttstock in below the boreline. The forend is relatively parallel, the underside of the butt is angled. The grip angle is decent, however where the Clymer for instance really differs is the scalloping on the sides and top of the grip to allow your thumb to lay correctly to the tang.

I think that picture is a pretty poor depiction of what reality is with the eh1. As you can see above, Atleast on the tikka inlet, the bore line and stock comb is damn near the same. I don’t have a fancy paper to lay it on just a straight line on my wood floor. I wish manners could do an ultra lite raised butt pad Maybe I can talk LRI into cutting it off and fitting something that allows the butt pad to be raised 3/4-1”.

Iv used a bravo, and regret getting rid of it, especially for mcmillan game scout/warden style stocks, but the eh1 seems to be the next best thing considering alterra and gunwerks won’t make a stock for the tikka, or don’t any longer.

I notice an immediate difference in just the bottom side of the butt stock when going from bravo/eh1 to something like a game scout/warden. That and I hate aics mags on a hunting rifle with a passion.

I’m a believer in what your saying on stock design. I wish they would make a negative comb stock, all the other ergonomics seem to be close. But I hear you on the parallel lines to look for, they make a hell of a difference when it comes to staying on target.

 

[Formidilosus]

View attachment 381438

I think that picture is a pretty poor depiction of what reality is with the eh1. As you can see above, Atleast on the tikka inlet, the bore line and stock comb is damn near the same. I don’t have a fancy paper to lay it on just a straight line on my wood floor. I wish manners could do an ultra lite raised butt pad Maybe I can talk LRI into cutting it off and fitting something that allows the butt pad to be raised 3/4-1”.

Iv used a bravo, and regret getting rid of it, especially for mcmillan game scout/warden style stocks, but the eh1 seems to be the next best thing considering alterra and gunwerks won’t make a stock for the tikka, or don’t any longer.

I notice an immediate difference in just the bottom side of the butt stock when going from bravo/eh1 to something like a game scout/warden. That and I hate aics mags on a hunting rifle with a passion.

I’m a believer in what your saying on stock design. I wish they would make a negative comb stock, all the other ergonomics seem to be close. But I hear you on the parallel lines to look for, they make a hell of a difference when it comes to staying on target.

It depends on the inlet on the bore line. In either case whether just below or directly inline, it’s too low to be optimum- though significantly better than most. Mesa’s are terrible in this regard for instance. A raised pad for the EH1 would certainly help, but the real answer is to build stocks with the goal of keeping the target in the score through recoil.


On the Clymer, @Shooter71 can you/would you be willing to take a Clymer inlet for a R700 or one of the other offerings, rebed and modify it for a Tikka?

 

[Lawnboi]

It depends on the inlet on the bore line. In either case whether just below or directly inline, it’s too low to be optimum- though significantly better than most. Mesa’s are terrible in this regard for instance. A raised pad for the EH1 would certainly help, but the real answer is to build stocks with the goal of keeping the target in the score through recoil.


On the Clymer, @Shooter71 can you/would you be willing to take a Clymer inlet for a R700 or one of the other offerings, rebed and modify it for a Tikka?

Have you seen the at-x chassis they are making for a tikka? Not what I would want on a hunting rifle but I’d like to get one for my match gun. They really pushed that butt stock up high, and have the bore parallel and low to the foreend.

If they decide to only use ctr mags though I’m out.

We do need something designed for recoil management though in the hunting world.

 

[Formidilosus]

Have you seen the at-x chassis they are making for a tikka?

You talking the Accuracy International Chassis?