What's your tuning process?

[AustinL911]

I'm not new to archery, but I am fairly new to this whole tuning game. I'm finding that I'm on overload with the amount of information that's out there regarding different tuning processes.

Here's my situation. I've run a 2010 Bowtech Admiral FLX for the past 8 years while hunting here in the East. I originally had it set up by a local guy (Mike Deck) who is, unfortunately, no longer in business. From what I remember of the time, he was supposedly one of the better tuning guys out there. I'm no archery expert, but the bow shot damn good for me, or at least I thought it did. Fast forward to last year; I had a new set of strings put on because I figured they were 7 years old at that point and I thought I should. Bad idea. The bow has never shot the same. Arrows seem to hit all over the place. So I'm at a crossroad. Do I take it back to the same shop and have them twerk on it, or do I suck it up and learn to do it myself? I've opted for the latter.

So, I've been Youtubing the hell out of this subject, but I can't seem to find anybody that breaks down the process step-by-step. Where do I start? What's step 1,2,3, etc? I can find videos all day long regarding specific tuning concepts (bareshaft, paper tuning, broadhead tuning, etc), which is great, but I'm still at a loss about how to get from Point A, to Point Z. What's a stepwise process for setting up the bow?

So what's your personal method? What do you do first? Second? Third? and so on...

 

[Brendan]

Good summary of mine last year.

http://www.rokslide.com/forums/archery/73933-setting-bow-scratch.html

I incorporate Bare Shaft Tuning, Broadhead Tuning, Torque Tuning, Creep Tuning. I usually end up doing an initial setup, shooting for a couple hundred shots, and then going back and checking everything again including: Tweaking draw weight, draw length, peep height & rotation, then torque/creep tune, then bare shaft tune, then broadheads....

 

[Brendan]

Big question on whether you do it yourself or not - do you have a press and draw board? If not, would be best to shoot it for 200 shots or so to let the strings settle, then have someone reputable "tune" it for you, and then make any final tweaks via the rest yourself.

 

[SunShine]

Everyone has their ways of doing things and frankly there’s a few ways to skin a cat as they say.

I’ll share what I do on each bow I set up for hunting or have my tuner set up for me.

I always get the manufacturers specs on my bow, brace height and axle to compare and get the bow into some semblance of spec.

After getting nocking point and rest rest set, I time the cams on a draw board.

Hybrids were a bit different than binaries in years past, but lately I’ve been setting them the same, rollover to the wall the same time. Imperative on a binary, optional on a hybrid with string stops.

After setting cam time, I check nock point and arrow rest again to see if and which way they moved and memory bank it for a later adjustment.

Next I go to the paper tuner and using a few different distances, get a bullethole, whether bareshaft or vanes , need a bullethole.

After maybe adjusting the rest,nock point or even yoke adjustments, I’ll do some walk back shooting out to 50 maybe 60 yards. After that, it’s time to sight in field tips and then broadheads.

This is a general thing. There’s things that may or may not come up as I progress, especially adjusting the nocking point. If your bow is in spec, your nocking point should be good once you paper tune and it’s more a rest adjust.

Forgot to add. Once I’m done I use white out marks where my cams intersect with the limbs so I can watch string stretch. You see those white marks rotate, your string has stretched.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Beendare]

AT has some good tuning guides

Multiple ways to get to the same place.

In my recurve; I bareshaft tune...and my BH's are dead on.

Compound; I paper tune FP's to get a bullet hole at 10',20',30'. then move out to 40yds,50yds and shoot groups with BH's, and BH tune from there.

I've never had to move my rest more than 1/8" [usually 1/16" max] or twist yokes much to get BH's to hit with FP's once paper tuned.

I can tell you some of the guys I've helped try and tune their bow had problems due to torquing their bow. If your forms not right...its hard to tune

 

[wapitibob]

Nock slightly above level so the arrow has direction, rest centered, then I shot a few ends to make sure the pointy end hits first. Stepped back to 40 and group tuned. When they were grouping good i screwed on Broadheads and checked groups as well. I tried a few different heads till I found one that grouped, then fine tuned those with insert weights and a little bow weight. Shot 2 bh and one fp at 40 and they grouped 1" so I quit and went hunting after I refletched two of the three.
And I added 2oz to my 12" back bar for a total 9.5, no front bar.

 

[timmymac24]

May seem crazy but did you buy a reputable string set? Is the string and cable the right length? I fought a bow to tune it and found this to be the issue. Hope it's working out.