what to do?

[littlebuf]

figure i would bounce this off you guys and see what the experts say. picked up a new bow this year and have been shooting a ton getting it where i want. rest ,adjustable sight ,cam this ,limb that ext. ext. well now im down to broad heads and im at a bit of a cross roads i guess. shooting 125gr shuttle t's and they are consistently hitting 2" left but dead flat from 30 to 60 (yet to step back with broad heads but shooting field points out to 100). and when i say consistent i mean Ive been shooting for a week every day without making any adjustments just to be sure what there doing. so i have no vertical adjustments to make just lateral. my hesitation is that im shooting straight bullet holes with my arrows and if i start moving my rest that will change. and i mean like on the cartoons when someone runs through a wall and leaves there shape holes in paper. so i know the bows shooting pretty damn pure where its at. so do i just shoot field points till mid next month and move my sight left till broad heads are center, shuttle t's trend a bit left any way. or play with the rest to try and get them over and maybe group with my field points? though i think if i do that id just be hitting right with my field points thus basically accomplishing the same thing as moving the sight but perhaps getting me out of paper tune. never been a master at bow tuning but i do ok. any advice?

 

[boom]

I think move the rest. IMHO rest movement affects ft arrows little. BH arrows more.

 

[Justin Crossley]

Doesn't really matter since you kill the elk with your bare hands anyway..........

 

[tipsntails7]

I would move the rest. paper tuning for me is just a basic starting block. I also doubt the tiny amount that you will need to move the rest will change your paper tune. if its 2 inches off at 60 then its gonna take mm of rest movement. the only thing that concerns me is if im reading right no matter what distance they are 2" left. which tells me that the rest may not be out of alignment, the distance should grow the farther you go back. only one way to find out.

Make a note or better yet take a photo of where your rest is at before moving it. if you don't like the results after the adjustment move it back.

I doubt its a stiff spine, I know your shooting 80 pounds at above a 28 inch arrow with the fmj 300.

 

[littlebuf]

28 7/8" if i remember right, i guess i miss typed or left out info there. two inches left @ 30 pushing 4 @ 60 but hitting in a consistent spot at each range respectively ,flat and left. funny i already took a pick of my rest location. ill play with it a bit tomorrow after it cools off some. freakin hot here!

 

[velvetfvr]

Littlebuf, have you checked your spine on ot2? I maybe can, but maybe you are a tad underspined a little?

 

[littlebuf]

It would be hard to be under spined with a 300 fmj I think . And from what I under stand broad heads hitting right is indicative of an under spined arrow left over spined. But I don't think there too stiff either. If I can't work it out arrows would be my next step. But that would be a big step, I love my fmj's

 

[tipsntails7]

Littlebuf, have you checked your spine on ot2? I maybe can, but maybe you are a tad underspined a little?

Underspined would go to the right of FP's. It's one of two things, rest which 99.9% sure or grip .01% chance. Especially if he groups well out to 100.

Ot2 which I love is notorious for saying arrows are underspined, FMj's are also notorious for tuning stiffer then they say. Guaranteed ot2 say he is underspined. But those arrows will tune.

 

[littlebuf]

Plus these arrows literally look like darts flying out of this bow. Some of the best arrow flight I've ever personally experienced. That alone gives me confidence I'm shooting the right arrow. That and my groups with field points. Just gotta get the broad heads there . It'll come. Thanks for the advice so far too guys

 

[velvetfvr]

Littlebuf what's your DL and measured center shot on the e35 (I think you shoot that bow)?

 

[mt hunter22]

mark the rest so you can return if wanted and then move the rest,but remember a little goes a long way so move it literally barely.. moving your sight wont close the gap between the 2 different impact points

 

[OR Archer]

Move your rest in 1/32" and shoot through paper again. It probably wont change your tune through paper. Resight your field tips then try your broadheads again. See if that doesn't bring them together.

 

[Coyote Commander]

Move the rest, get the broadheads in there with the field points, and dont worry about what it looks like thru paper.

 

[MattB]

Ditto on move the rest slightly. Paper is a good general indicator, but the BH's are telling you that your paper tear isn't telling you what you think it is.

 

[5MilesBack]

Do a modified walk-back tune with just your BH's, and that should set your centershot pretty well. FP's and paper should follow suit.

 

[doverpack12]

If rest movement doesn't bring the broadheads and fieldpoints together, try lengthening your draw length maybe 1/8". I would leave the bow set exactly how it is since dual cam bows can be sensitive to adjustments until re synched and draw stops set. Make the adjustment in your release or d-loop. Broadheads hitting left that will not move with rest adjustments are a sign of too short of a draw length. I fought this for years with too long of a draw length. I have heard of the 2013 Elites running short a little but not sure about the 2014's.

 

[velvetfvr]

If rest movement doesn't bring the broadheads and fieldpoints together, try lengthening your draw length maybe 1/8". I would leave the bow set exactly how it is since dual cam bows can be sensitive to adjustments until re synched and draw stops set. Make the adjustment in your release or d-loop. Broadheads hitting left that will not move with rest adjustments are a sign of too short of a draw length. I fought this for years with too long of a draw length. I have heard of the 2013 Elites running short a little but not sure about the 2014's.

Lengthening a release or dloop will not change draw length. It will change the anchor point for littlebuf

 

[Rolo]

Lengthening a release or dloop will not change draw length. It will change the anchor point for littlebuf

Actually, it will change the total draw length/spread, and also give littlebuf an indication of whether it is a DL issue. Whether the bow's DL needs to be changed or loop/release length needs to be changed after determining if it is a DL issue is another thing. It doesn't do anything to the bow's DL, but that is only part of the equation.

 

[KMD]

Had a similar POI shift issue with my other bow. Micro-moving the rest to "follow the fieldpoint" did not help, at all.
Wound up gettin' the BHs to hit with FPs, via yoke tuning with top idler wheel (Mathews)

Don't know how that relates to your bow if its not a Solocam, but maybe something worth checking into? Is there any cam lean @ full draw that you can 'tune' out, with a few twists of a string yoke?

 

[Rolo]

BOT...If your bow has a split yoke, and assuming your center-shot is correct, then start playing with the twists in the yoke. BH hitting left, 1/2 twist in the right yoke, and take 1/2 out of the left. Shoot. See what happens.

If your bow doesn't have yokes, then you're left with moving the rest, shimming cams, or messing around with your grip if you want to get the FPs and BHs to hit the same, in most circumstances.