What does this brake rotor tell you?

[BRTreedogs]

The caliper is not squeezing squarely.
Could be any number of bent hub flange, debris between the hub and rotor.
Wheel bearing.
Sticky caliper.
Or usually in my experience it usually stuck caliper slide pins.
If you can get them out and wire wheel them and grease umm up.

 

[Alpine4x4]

x whatever on it being a caliper issue most likely. Pad contact is not even.

If it was a rotor not seated on the hub properly the uneven wear wouldnt go around 360*. Rotors dont truly warp as stated before.

 

[Ucsdryder]

I have a set of pads I’ll put on. I’ll grease/lube the shit out of everything. Then I guess keep an eye on it over the next x miles to see if it looks like it’s wearing evenly. If not, I’ll replace the caliper.

 

[TSAMP]

Never had this problem on my Tundra

 

[Alpine4x4]

Never had this problem on my Tundra

 

[Ucsdryder]

Never had this problem on my Tundra

Same! But rumor has it that back in ‘95 a bed rusted on a Tacoma. Previous owner still thinks about it every day.

 

[TSAMP]

Same! But rumor has it that back in ‘95 a bed rusted on a Tacoma. Previous owner still thinks about it every day.

I know the guy, he's the reason for the recall, and I am for every recall henceforth.

 

[CorbLand]

I have a set of pads I’ll put on. I’ll grease/lube the shit out of everything. Then I guess keep an eye on it over the next x miles to see if it looks like it’s wearing evenly. If not, I’ll replace the caliper.

I hear that it really helps if you slap some grease on the surface of the rotor. Really smooths the brakes out. Make sure it’s high quality, high temperature stuff though.

Edit to add. Legal disclaimer. This is a joke, don’t be a moron and do this.

 

[Ucsdryder]

I hear that it really helps if you slap some grease on the surface of the rotor. Really smooths the brakes out. Make sure it’s high quality, high temperature stuff though.

If I crash I’ll send my lawyer your info.

 

[svivian]

I hear that it really helps if you slap some grease on the surface of the rotor. Really smooths the brakes out. Make sure it’s high quality, high temperature stuff though.

Ive heard it also keeps them nice and cool, dont want them overheating!

 

[CorbLand]

If I crash I’ll send my lawyer your info.

That will cost you more than what you would get from me.

 

[Billy Goat]

You either need a bigger hammer, or wd40.


I think you coat everything in wd40, and I mean everything. Let it soak overnight, and try her out in the AM.

 

[Maverick1]

How's the wheel bearing?

Second this. Check it out.

 

[Caseknife]

Looks like new rotors were installed along with loaded calipers, can still see the crosshatching on the rotor. The stainless steel slides that the pads ride on are either binding the pads, too tight, or were not lubed. With GM replacement pads comes a little packet of graphite/lithium grease to lube the pad slides. Suspect that is all it needs. I would also just sand down the pads on a flat plate on sandpaper and then burnish the brakes after it is all together, a few hard stops 30mph down to 10, drive a few miles to cool and repeat a few times. As has been said above, the hubs need to be clean to bare metal, no rust, and then torque the lugnuts to spec in a criss-cross pattern.

 

[Ucsdryder]

Looks like new rotors were installed along with loaded calipers, can still see the crosshatching on the rotor. The stainless steel slides that the pads ride on are either binding the pads, too tight, or were not lubed. With GM replacement pads comes a little packet of graphite/lithium grease to lube the pad slides. Suspect that is all it needs. I would also just sand down the pads on a flat plate on sandpaper and then burnish the brakes after it is all together, a few hard stops 30mph down to 10, drive a few miles to cool and repeat a few times. As has been said above, the hubs need to be clean to bare metal, no rust, and then torque the lugnuts to spec in a criss-cross pattern.

New pads and new rotors didn’t fix it. Replaced clips and lubed everything. I’m thinking bad caliper, out of square, or something axle related, like bearings??????

 

[Caseknife]

You will hear the wheel bearings before it will cause any brake issues. Rumble noise on slight turns at hiway speeds, usually the outside bearing making the noise, will change when turning the other way.

Didn't fix what, perceived warped rotors? Check your inner tie rods for slack and all other steering components. Or the uneven wear on the rotor?

 

[Wrench]

I've seen bearings go down and do this. If you're not super in tune with the rig you can miss it. Sometimes they can just sound like a bit more road noise over time.

Easy to check with a jack and a lever and block of wood.

 

[Ucsdryder]

You will hear the wheel bearings before it will cause any brake issues. Rumble noise on slight turns at hiway speeds, usually the outside bearing making the noise, will change when turning the other way.

Didn't fix what, perceived warped rotors? Check your inner tie rods for slack and all other steering components. Or the uneven wear on the rotor?

After some hard braking with new pads and rotors I can already see a shine on the outside of the rotors that matches the old rotor wear pattern.

 

[Ucsdryder]

Here are the pads. Also almost brand new. You can see the wear starting along the “back” of the pads, not the toe

 

[Caseknife]

You can tell if it is road noise because it will change with the surface of the road, bearing noise is constant. That being said, Duramax engines seem to have the same harmonics as a bad wheel bearing, older generations. I have pulled vehicles into the shop spitting out ball bearings across the parking lot and the customer didn't have a clue.