What Does A Big $ Scope Do For You?

[Run Ralphie]

On several occasions, I've heard experts suggest spending twice as much on a scope than a rifle. While I understand the sentiment that the optic is more important than the rifle, I'm frustrated at the lack of explanation as to just what it is about a higher end scope that is so helpful. Image clarity? Weight? Better reticle? Turrets? Large objective lens?

Can anyone explain?

I'll be putting my next scope on either a 6.5 Creedmoor or 7mm-08 that will be used for antelope, mule deer, practice at the range, and something for my 13 year old to shoot when he's ready. I'm not a bench competitor, nor do I care about long range. I've always tried to keep it under 400 yards and doubt I'd ever stretch things beyond 500 at most. I've had a 3-9 Leopold VXII in the past and my current 30/06 has a 2.5x10 Nikon Monarch with a simple Nikon reticle.

What would be the big improvement over my old Leopold or Nikon? The Leopold CDS turrets interest me but I don't know a lot about them. Thanks all. I appreciate your thoughts.

 

[dotman]

Other then optics your paying for rock solid internal mechanics that won’t fail and if you dial very precise and accurate dial adjustments that are repeatable over and over.

 

[jmden]

Many of the higher dollar scopes are geared towards long range shooting, so if that's not your thing and 500 yards is barely long range, that kind of scope may not be where you need to put your dollars. Make sure you know what the scope is/does and what you want it to do before pulling the plug. 'Turrets' on high dollar scopes don't do much for you if there isn't a whole lot of other things in terms of know how, much practice, precision reloading, and $ spent to bring the rest of your gear up to par.

 

[HellsCanyon]

If you keep it under 400 yards, know and use your holdovers. Plenty of $500 durable scopes out there to do what you want. Anything over 400 yards needs reliable internal mechanics of a turret equipped scope. Glass clarity and sharpness is in the bottom of my list of important factors. I want robust, durable and repeatable with a feature set that lends itself to reduced operator error. Features like first focal plane, capped/lock down windage turret, reticle with subtensions that match the turret click values, and a easy to set zero stop. For these qualities figure on spending minimum $800 and up to $3000. The last year or two we’ve been extremely fortunate with great reliable LR scope offerings, and it’s only getting better.

Mike


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[hiway_99]

Mike,
What are some suggestions for robust, repeatable, turret scopes?

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[Daubsnu1]

Thanks for this thread, and explanations. I've been debating about new scopes on my -06 and 7MAG. But my shots are never more than 400 yards. And with my guns set to 250 yard zero, I'm pretty confident out to 450 yards.

I will be keeping my old Leupold scopes sitting on top of my guns...for now : )

 

[wind gypsy]

Every time I buy an alpha scope my internet penis grows a little bit.

 

[LightFoot]

Other then optics your paying for rock solid internal mechanics that won’t fail and if you dial very precise and accurate dial adjustments that are repeatable over and over.

This ^^^

You are buy clarity, competence, and most importantly, confidence that your optics will not fail when called upon.



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[wyosteve]

X2 what Dotman said!

 

[BrushyHillGuide]

I’ll ‘second’ what Mike and dotman said and add, that the quality of (some, not all) premium glass can be a real advantage at those critical first/last minutes of shooting light. The increased clarity and light transmission can be a real benefit at times. Is it as critical and the robust and repeatable intervals? Nope. But it’s a nice advantage; especially for aging eyes. Lol! If you don’t feel challenged by your current glass and aren’t trying to push or improve your shooting ability, I don’t see why you’d upgrade your scopes. There’s a big interest currently in precision shooting. Particularly in LR shooting. But if you’re not interested in this type of shooting as a hobby or extension of your hunting, a premium scope probably isn’t necessary for you. A budget vehicle and a Ferrari will both get you to the grocery store. One will get you there faster and in more style and the other will simply get you there. Different strokes.


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[204guy]

Other then optics your paying for rock solid internal mechanics that won’t fail and if you dial very precise and accurate dial adjustments that are repeatable over and over.

Can't really agree with this. It's hard to find a high $ scope with poor glass. Finding one with rock solid internals is much more difficult, the ones that likely immediately come to mind for exceptional glass do not have rock solid mechanics.

 

[Steve O]

Yep, agree with the consensus here. These cartridges you mention match up well with Leupolds B&C reticle so any of the Lupies would be a set it and forget it scope.

 

[Schaaf]

Can't really agree with this. It's hard to find a high $ scope with poor glass. Finding one with rock solid internals is much more difficult, the ones that likely immediately come to mind for exceptional glass do not have rock solid mechanics.

Don’t think that’s what he was saying. He was including high quality optics with the rock solid internals.

 

[freebird]

I jumped on the Athlon bandwagon right off the bat and very much regret it for my 300RUM, the recoil killed the argos. Then tried the ares and was very disappointed, the optics were no where near as clear as they made it out to be. So I spent the heavies and bought a nightforce and do not regret it.

 

[6.5x284]

Big dollar scopes get you crisp edge to edge clarity, no or very little CA, beautiful resolution, little to no eye fatigue, and usually a very bright image. Along with the increased viewing pleasure benefits I described, also precise and repeatable adjustments. But as has been said, if you're not dialing for every shot, you don't need to spend the kind of money for those high dollar scopes to get a benefit you don't use or need. For a typical hunter there are a lot of excellent scopes for 1k and under that have incredible glass with a quality reticle if you choose to holdover, or even the duplex if you hunt terrain where you just don't shoot over 300 yards. I will say this as I own and have owned quite a few Alphas (S&Bs, Premiers, NF ATACR F1s mainly), once you look through and are used to Alpha glass, it's really hard to go back to something that isn't! Sightron offers great glass in their 3-9 and SIII 3.5-10 line for those who want a normal sized hunting scope with exceptional glass. The Zeiss V6 line I'm really pleased with after a year of hard hunting with mine this year and two deer taken, and successful dialing out to 1380 after taking a big fall on the rifle and optic. I think the new Zeiss V4 line released at shot will be a winner for those who want to spin turrets with a lighter weight package at a modest price. Also, the Leupold VX-6 line looks very nice but have no experience with them, but would try one if given the opportunity. It's a great time to be a shooting sport enthusiast (regarding choices and quality products).

 

[Brendan]

Mentioned above, but I like good glass for counting points in those first seconds of legal shooting light, even at short range. I've had deer I've been able to clearly count the tines, and shot. And then those with a lesser dollar scope that I had to pass on because I couldn't get enough light to see if a buck was legal as he moved through the timber...

 

[gbflyer]

On several occasions, I've heard experts suggest spending twice as much on a scope than a rifle. While I understand the sentiment that the optic is more important than the rifle, I'm frustrated at the lack of explanation as to just what it is about a higher end scope that is so helpful. Image clarity? Weight? Better reticle? Turrets? Large objective lens?

Can anyone explain?

I'll be putting my next scope on either a 6.5 Creedmoor or 7mm-08 that will be used for antelope, mule deer, practice at the range, and something for my 13 year old to shoot when he's ready. I'm not a bench competitor, nor do I care about long range. I've always tried to keep it under 400 yards and doubt I'd ever stretch things beyond 500 at most. I've had a 3-9 Leopold VXII in the past and my current 30/06 has a 2.5x10 Nikon Monarch with a simple Nikon reticle.

What would be the big improvement over my old Leopold or Nikon? The Leopold CDS turrets interest me but I don't know a lot about them. Thanks all. I appreciate your thoughts.

Nothing other than a lighter wallet. Yes, the optics are better, but most of us don't spend hours and hours peering through the scope in the hunting woods. Better to have a great pair of binos and a scope we can live with.

Hard to beat basic VX or FX Leupold for a set and forget role. Decent glass, holds zero, and not built out of discarded anvils. If you're a knob turner then you'll need to go with something with a different erector system, then they get heavy and often times more expensive. I can't see how Leupold CDS would function any better, in my experience their dialing repeatability is very poor from top of the line to the cheaper ones.

 

[Rthur]

Top quality internals/repeatability and glass.
Something else comes with the "name" resale value.
I've shot with most of the "top" name brands.
I've come to the conclusion that in the upper end it mostly comes down to reticle choices.
Many times a guy can recoup 85% or better the new price.

R

 

[Run Ralphie]

Thanks guys. This is great information and I appreciate it very much. I took a look at the B&C reticle and like the idea. It seems similar to the reticle I have on my Vortex which is mounted to a .22LR.

Does anyone have any experience between the B&C reticle vs the Leopold CDS system? (For that matter, I’m wondering if you could do both on the same Leopold scope.). I’m on the verge of taking the handloading plunge, if that matters. Thanks

 

[gbflyer]

The B and C would be fine. They also have a varmint reticle, forget the exact name of it but it has the Christmas tree in it for wind calls and lead. It's a little busy for a woods gun but really slick for open country. Depending on your zero, you can work out a system to use it for about any cartridge if you know the distance you're shooting. No dialing required.

Most folks that dial use generic MOA or Mils, I don't think the CDS is all that versatile and adds a degree of mechanical complexity that may not be necessary for a hunting gun. Then again, variety is the spice of life