Video review of the Black Gold Ascent

[S&S ARCHERY]

I've put this out there in a few places but thought I would share here as well. I go into quite a bit of detail about the Black Gold Ascent sight, all the custom options, setting up the sight properly and installing the sight tape. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask or PM me and I can get you the Rokslide discount code to order one.

Thanks,
Steve

Part I:
[video=youtube;L1ILiYw8Ifw]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=L1ILiYw8Ifw[/video]

 

[S&S ARCHERY]

Part II:
[video=youtube;ZhHwr1f4FkA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=ZhHwr1f4FkA[/video]

 

[gulicemo]

Nicely done videos. Looks like some good features in those sights.

 

[KMD]

Great vids!
I got both of my custom MBG Ascents though S&S, and very happy with them...

 

[Manosteel]

Excellent review. Never looked at Black gold as a slider option until now.

 

[Bighub1]

Good review. Just like always. For those that haven't ordered from S&S, Steve is a good guy to deal with. His customer service is great and all issues are resolved quickly. If he sells it,i prefer to order through him.

 

[Gman]

About a month ago I called Steve up looking for a new sight. He turned me onto the black gold after answering all my questions. I'm very happy with it and just got done sighting it in for the sight tape tonight using the method in his video. Just to double check I also produced one using the TAPES program and it was spot on. I've also ordered tripods and other stuff from Steve - great customer service.

 

[S&S ARCHERY]

Thanks for all the great feedback guys. If anyone has any questions feel free to ask.

Steve

 

[PhillyB]

Awesome site. I picked mine up at S&S last year... as Gman said. Awesome customer service.

Steve- I sent you a PM with a couple questions as well

 

[wileybrew]

This is a solid review great job. I have been running this sight for a couple seasons now and durable is an under statement.

 

[J-Daddy]

Steve is a good dude, I've been a dealer with BG for years but I recently moved states and during all the headaches that come with a move I referred numerous guys to S&S because I knew Steve would take good care of them.

 

[S&S ARCHERY]

Steve is a good dude, I've been a dealer with BG for years but I recently moved states and during all the headaches that come with a move I referred numerous guys to S&S because I knew Steve would take good care of them.[/QUOTE

Thanks, I appreciate it!

 

[sk1]

steve, why make the sight flush as your zero? why not have it dialed all the way to the top that way you can never mistake your zero point, and have more adjusting ability to dial for longer distances? the only disadvantage i can think of is if your slider is at 60 yards you wouldnt be able to dial up to shoot 53 or whatever. am i missing any other reasons that you might have it flush as your zero?

 

[S&S ARCHERY]

steve, why make the sight flush as your zero? why not have it dialed all the way to the top that way you can never mistake your zero point, and have more adjusting ability to dial for longer distances? the only disadvantage i can think of is if your slider is at 60 yards you wouldnt be able to dial up to shoot 53 or whatever. am i missing any other reasons that you might have it flush as your zero?

I do it for a couple reasons. You can crank it all the way up but like you said you lose the ability to move the sight up if needed for a shorter shot. This is probably overkill but you also loose a little strength as less of the sliding parts are in contact with each other. lastly with anything from a 3 to 5 pin set up you'll have more travel than you need. Right now with 5 pins I can still crank it all the way down to where my fletching will hit the bottom of the sight housing so more adjustment just isn't needed.

 

[mtbshark]

you point out a valid issue with the flush set up Steve, I have never thought about the strength side of your method. I run it so the sight bottoms out to the top so I have a hard zero. That way I will always have 20-60 locked in.

 

[sk1]

I do it for a couple reasons. You can crank it all the way up but like you said you lose the ability to move the sight up if needed for a shorter shot. This is probably overkill but you also loose a little strength as less of the sliding parts are in contact with each other. lastly with anything from a 3 to 5 pin set up you'll have more travel than you need. Right now with 5 pins I can still crank it all the way down to where my fletching will hit the bottom of the sight housing so more adjustment just isn't needed.

i see ok, i like the idea of adjusting for a shorter shot, but i just figured you cant possibly screw up your zero point if its cranked all the way up. i think i will give your method a shot.

do you recommend the way you showed in your video over calculating a sight tape with a program based on your fps? i bought my ascent from you in 2011, and the surge head just now in 2013, can i order the sight tapes MBG started using either through you, or them? Thanks

 

[S&S ARCHERY]

i see ok, i like the idea of adjusting for a shorter shot, but i just figured you cant possibly screw up your zero point if its cranked all the way up. i think i will give your method a shot.

do you recommend the way you showed in your video over calculating a sight tape with a program based on your fps? i bought my ascent from you in 2011, and the surge head just now in 2013, can i order the sight tapes MBG started using either through you, or them? Thanks

You can order the sight tapes through me: http://www.sandsarchery.com/Montana_Black_Gold_Sight_Tape_Kit_20_100_yards_p/mbsta.htm

I recommend doing the way I talked about in the video, the computer programs work but if you have one calculation wrong you end up having to mess with it anyway. Using the printed out tapes I've found them to be extremely accurate if sighted in correctly.

 

[bengreenfield]

Part II:
[video=youtube;ZhHwr1f4FkA]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=ZhHwr1f4FkA[/video]

Helpful. But I have a question...below my notes...

-get good grouping at the 20 using MIDDLE pin on your sight, with white tape where sight tape will sit, and use marker to make mark where 20 is.
-then move slider down to approximately where you think 60 will be and shoot at 60 (also using middle pin), making vertical adjustments with dial until 60 is dialed in, then mark 60 on white tape too.
-then find sight tape that most closely lines up to your 20 and 60 yard marks.
-put sight tape on, lining up the indicator needle with where you want to start on the sight tape (e.g. 70 yards if your bottom floating pin is at 60)

But here is the disconnect for me, and I’m sorry if this is a dumb question, but I’m new to archery…

…when you shot in the field, it appeared you left the field with your indicator needle at 60 yard mark. But back in the shop, your indicator needle was moved slightly up, and that is where you placed the 70 yard mark of your sight tape. Question is: how did you choose where the indicator needle would sit prior to placing that sight tape?

 

[S&S ARCHERY]

Helpful. But I have a question...below my notes...

-get good grouping at the 20 using MIDDLE pin on your sight, with white tape where sight tape will sit, and use marker to make mark where 20 is.
-then move slider down to approximately where you think 60 will be and shoot at 60 (also using middle pin), making vertical adjustments with dial until 60 is dialed in, then mark 60 on white tape too.
-then find sight tape that most closely lines up to your 20 and 60 yard marks.
-put sight tape on, lining up the indicator needle with where you want to start on the sight tape (e.g. 70 yards if your bottom floating pin is at 60)

But here is the disconnect for me, and I’m sorry if this is a dumb question, but I’m new to archery…

…when you shot in the field, it appeared you left the field with your indicator needle at 60 yard mark. But back in the shop, your indicator needle was moved slightly up, and that is where you placed the 70 yard mark of your sight tape. Question is: how did you choose where the indicator needle would sit prior to placing that sight tape?

It does not matter where the indicator needle sits, I personally just leave mine in the same place as it came from the factory. You just have to think of it as a reference point that you create, not a fixed point on the sight.

Steve

 

[bengreenfield]

I guess I'm still just slightly confused. Doesn't your entire sight housing move up and down when you turn the dial on the Black Gold that adjusts the indicator needle up and down, and wouldn't that therefore significantly affect your pin location if the housing is moving up and down? Or is that not the case?