Ventum Pro 33 tune issue

[Kheimann]

I was messing around with a bare shaft tune as I build out my arrows this year and have a wicked low nock tear that I can’t get to go away.

My setup is 65lb draw, 31” DL, shooting 31” Easton Axis match grade with a 300 spine and 125 point with the standard HIT insert. AAE IP nocks with 3 AAE hybrid 26s. With a carter wise choice release. I’ve tried everything I can think of to adjust and nothing makes a significant difference. I’ve moved the rest up and down, nocking point up and down, 1/2 twists in cables to try and micro adjust timing(timing was good). Even tried backing off draw weight and adding point weight to check for a spine issue.(Eastons spine chart puts me right on the line of a 300/250). Even went back to the old wrist rocket to see if the release was causing an issue.

Im able to get the bow to shoot really well and group really well with fletched arrows although it puts the arrow at a noticeable down hill angle on the bow. With bare-shafts it’s hitting at close to an 30 degree downward angle at 20yards and I’m concerned this is going to cause issues when I go to tune for broadheads.

From what I’ve read people do having issues getting the Ventums to tune, any insight would be greatly appreciated.

 

[ndfb35]

You may need to move both the rest and nock point higher. Example; instead of having the center of the arrow run through the center of the berger move it so the bottom of the arrow runs along the top of the berger hole. Another thing to try is tiller tuning. This requires you to take turns out of the bottom limb bolt. 1/8 or 1/4 turn at a time and see if it effects the tear.

 

[NXTZ]

Agree with the above, moving both nock point and rest up a little may resolve it. I have the VTM34 (functionally the same thing), and use axis arrows with the AAE nock and wise choice as well-no issues there. If you have some 100 grain points, maybe throw a couple on instead of the 125's just to see if that helps (i doubt it would, but easy enough to try). Ill post a pic or two of my arrow relative to the berger hole, and measure distance to my d loop for you. FWIW, I'm getting fantastic flight with mine..

 

[NXTZ]

You may also want to check for fletching contact with your rest. The QAD didn't play nice with 4 fletch (contact). Three is no problem. There is exactly 1" between the riser shelf and the BOTTOM of my arrow shaft. I tried to measure from the top cam to the nocking point in that second pic, maybe helpful to compare where you're at. I'm at 29" draw, 70 lbs. Axis 300 28" carbon to carbon, same nocks and fletching. I have 175gr total upfront. Shooting great, had fixed heads hitting within an inch of field points at 50 with this setup.

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Where are bareshafts landing relative to fletched shafts? As in point of impact, not just angle. A nock low paper tear should correlate to barehsafts landing above fletched shafts.

 

[fatlander]

My ventum 33 tuned great with the arrow running a little high in the berger hole.


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[Kheimann]

Where are bareshafts landing relative to fletched shafts? As in point of impact, not just angle. A nock low paper tear should correlate to barehsafts landing above fletched shafts.

Bareshafts are hitting 3-4”high at 20yards

 

[Kheimann]

You may also want to check for fletching contact with your rest. The QAD didn't play nice with 4 fletch (contact). Three is no problem. There is exactly 1" between the riser shelf and the BOTTOM of my arrow shaft. I tried to measure from the top cam to the nocking point in that second pic, maybe helpful to compare where you're at. I'm at 29" draw, 70 lbs. Axis 300 28" carbon to carbon, same nocks and fletching. I have 175gr total upfront. Shooting great, had fixed heads hitting within an inch of field points at 50 with this setup.

Thank you I will definitely trying moving everything up to top of Berger hole. Are you running arrow level then or moving that nocking point up?

 

[NXTZ]

I wanna say my arrow is ever so slightly nock high. Also keep in mind that the QAD rest will come up a little from where it is in the picture when you get to full draw. regardless of your rest, be sure its timed well enough to avoid fletching contact. If you feel like you're close, and you probably are, I like to leave the d loop alone and fine tune nock height with soft nock sets (serving tied within the d loop above and below the nock).

 

[Kheimann]

You may need to move both the rest and nock point higher. Example; instead of having the center of the arrow run through the center of the berger move it so the bottom of the arrow runs along the top of the berger hole. Another thing to try is tiller tuning. This requires you to take turns out of the bottom limb bolt. 1/8 or 1/4 turn at a time and see if it affects the tea

I wanna say my arrow is ever so slightly nock high. Also keep in mind that the QAD rest will come up a little from where it is in the picture when you get to full draw. regardless of your rest, be sure its timed well enough to avoid fletching contact. If you feel like you're close, and you probably are, I like to leave the d loop alone and fine tune nock height with soft nock sets (serving tied within the d loop above and below the nock).

I appreciate the feedback, I’ll be sure to post back what I find! Was starting to get extremely frustrated with it

 

[PAhumter1987]

I have also had trouble with my Ventum Pro 33 and a low tear. Bare shaft impacts are about the same for me as yours. I ended up with my QAD integrate almost bottomed out and my nock point a little high to get bare shafts and fletched together at 30 yards.

 

[Kheimann]

Thanks everyone for the input/ help. I raised my rest so the bottom of my arrow was 1” off the riser shelf, and then played around with the nocking point height. It helped a lot with fletched vs bare shafts sitting close to the same in target at paper tuning distances, and the tears were closer to bullet holes. At 20 yards that got it from what was more like 5” high to about 2” high. Then I messed with tiller tuning 1/8 turn at a time and found that a 1/4 turn seemed to help the most. And now bare shafts are within 1-1.5” of fletched arrow. Which is a significant improvement and could very well just be a me problem! Now on the the broadheads and straight range time. Thanks again!

Pictures are: where it started, after moving rest, after tiller tune

 

[doc holiday13]

Check your cam timing.... I wasn't able to hunt regular archery last year so I never fired a broadhead out of my bow till 2 weeks ago. My arrows were paper tuning great... I put a broadhead on and EVERYTHING went wonky. I checked the timing. One stop was hitting and the other was about 1/8-3/16" from touching.. Just barely out of timing enough for me to not notice. I was just having a random oddball arrow flight every now and again and chocked it up to bad form

I shoot a ventum pro 33

 

[Kheimann]

Figured I’d come back and update now that hunting and indoor season is over. I still wasn’t happy with my arrow flight and noticed some more things shooting broadheads. So kept messing with it, and moved the shims. During that process I realized the axles were bent from factory which explains a lot of things I was noticing(draw cycle would randomly get tight). So got new axles in it and that solved the vertical tear issue. I put a Hamskea Epsilon on it, which gave me a right tear. Put in the black shims which got it close and few clicks later I had a bullet hole. With good arrow flight, just need to do alittle group tuning and we’ll be off and running.