Vane Adhesion Issues

[BGNRSLK]

Can anyone steer me in the right direction with this issue?

I’m now at 6 arrows that it “seems” like the main issue is the adhesive isn’t holding. Shooting at the typical stacked foam type target and sometimes the arrows penetrate to the vanes.

Got them made at the local pro shop.

Easton Axis 5mm with AAE max stealth vanes and unfortunately I don’t know the adhesive type.

 

[BullsDeep]

I use the aae max stealth vanes and in my experience you have to take a primer pen to them before gluing. When done properly they aren't coming off.

 

[BGNRSLK]

Good tip.

I didn’t ( kind of) want to jump into making my own arrows but I do feel like I could have better QC.

 

[Zac]

It's the Axis arrows. They have some horrible coating on them that makes it almost impossible to refletch. The first round always worked. However I always had to use wraps after that. It's one of the reasons I quit using the Axis. Also there is far better weight options in 5mm IMO. If you take them back to the same shop just tell them to use wraps. That should do the trick.

 

[BGNRSLK]

It's the Axis arrows. They have some horrible coating on them that makes it almost impossible to refletch. The first round always worked. However I always had to use wraps after that. It's one of the reasons I quit using the Axis. Also there is far better weight options in 5mm IMO. If you take them back to the same shop just tell them to use wraps. That should do the trick.

Suggestions in the 5mm?

 

[Zac]

Suggestions in the 5mm?

RIP TKO is the only one I would use. It's tougher than the Axis and much lighter as well. However don't go and change now. The Axis is a great shaft, I would only do that if you needed to buy new shafts. I also would stick with the Axis if I was going to use stock components. Victory 5 mil components are straight junk. Although I really like their 4 mil components.

 

[MattB]

Simple, get a better target.

 

[Turkeygetpwnd38]

Could be one of two issues, either the vanes were not primed before glued or the glue used was old. Proper priming and gluing with the max stealth and you can barely pull them off with pliers. Also, tip your vanes, add a small bit of glue to the front and back of fletching.
There is nothing wrong with the axis shafts and in no world is the TKO stronger (I shoot and like both). Wraps do help just for ease of refletching.

 

[Marble]

Suggestions in the 5mm?

I've been using axis and AAE vanes for longer than I can recall. If you primer the vane correctly, one at a time, the vanes will not come off.

I use gorilla glue, but there are lots of other options.

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[Jon_G]

I wouldn't advice someone to change arrows without knowing what weight and/or FOC (if you care for FOC) they are after just because I personally couldn't get vanes to stick lol

For example, I built some Rip tkos with a 25 grain HIT insert and a 25 grain collar. 425 TAW 14.18 FOC. If I put those same components in an Axis I would be at 471 grains 12.82 FOC.
See, much different arrow.
I would have to put the standard 16 grain insert on an Axis and a 10 grain collar to be close in weight to the rip tko and that would put me at like 430-ish grains.
You have to play with the numbers and find which arrow works for you because you can't go wrong with either one.

To go back to your OP, if you use a primer pen those things aren't coming off. I would recommend using a lightweight simple wrap since it makes removing them much easier but it does cost a bit more and you'll regret not prepping them right since you'll have to strip all the vanes if you damage one.

Here's what I built like 2 weeks ago and I couldn't be happier.

 

[Zac]

Could be one of two issues, either the vanes were not primed before glued or the glue used was old. Proper priming and gluing with the max stealth and you can barely pull them off with pliers. Also, tip your vanes, add a small bit of glue to the front and back of fletching.
There is nothing wrong with the axis shafts and in no world is the TKO stronger (I shoot and like both). Wraps do help just for ease of refletching.

It's a 4mil in comparison if that matters. I think the RIP would do the same, Around 550 or the second video.

 

[Turkeygetpwnd38]

It's a 4mil in comparison if that matters. I think the RIP would do the same, Around 550 or the second video.

I’m going off my experience, shot the TKO for about 5 years and axis for over a decade. I’ve shot dozens of animals with both, TAC courses, rocks, fences, trees, etc. I have the exact same components in both, TKOs break about twice as much as axis. I still use both, primary arrows are still TKOs because they are plenty tough and get my overall weight where I want.

 

[BGNRSLK]

Appreciate all the input everyone.

Biggest thing I’m seeing is primer pen and wraps for the next go around.

Big question now: are all wraps created equal? I’ve briefly looked but does anyone know of a wrap or anything that has a reflective component to it?

 

[Jon_G]

Appreciate all the input everyone.

Biggest thing I’m seeing is primer pen and wraps for the next go around.

Big question now: are all wraps created equal? I’ve briefly looked but does anyone know of a wrap or anything that has a reflective component to it?

There are a few different types. The ones I posted above are reflective. But they are heavier. I wanted a heavier wrap to add a bit more arrow weight and decrease foc by a bit. I don't care where I land in the FOC scale as long as it's between 10-15% since that's what Easton recommends for a more balanced arrow flight. Dont stress over it too much though.

Just a simple wrap of any kind will do though. Try whitewaterarchery.com
The owner there is great and you can customize your own without extra charges.

 

[jbelz]

I’ll add another vote for reflective wraps. Can really help with locating an arrow in low/no light. I’m sure lots of good options are out there, but I’ve always had good luck with Onestringer wraps.

 

[Marble]

I do not like the wraps. Whenever I have to replace one vane, I have to replace all of them when I have wraps because it rips part of the wrap off when a vane gets ripped off. For replacing all the vanes , it is convenient. But for one vane, waste of time and money. And it's added weight to the back of my arrow. You can add a wrap at another location if needed. But in my opinion, they are for esthetic reasons only.

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[JF_Idaho]

Appreciate all the input everyone.

Biggest thing I’m seeing is primer pen and wraps for the next go around.

Big question now: are all wraps created equal? I’ve briefly looked but does anyone know of a wrap or anything that has a reflective component to it?

Just buy a roll of Oracle 651. Way cheaper and can make custom size wraps for whatever you need.

 

[Jon_G]

I do not like the wraps. Whenever I have to replace one vane, I have to replace all of them when I have wraps because it rips part of the wrap off when a vane gets ripped off. For replacing all the vanes , it is convenient. But for one vane, waste of time and money. And it's added weight to the back of my arrow. You can add a wrap at another location if needed. But in my opinion, they are for esthetic reasons only.

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I agree that it costs more but I disagree that they are for esthetic purposes only but I'm not saying you're wrong. They have many purposes.

Like I explained above. I wanted an arrow at around 425 grains with a wrap and I achieved that exactly at 425 with a reflective wrap. Also the reflective wrap helps you find an arrow in low light with a flashlight. Also, I've never had to replace a vane since I shoot broadhead first when broadhead tuning. If you prep right, those things are on there until you want them to come off.

 

[butcherboy]

I used wraps once. Never again. They look cool but a real pain when you just need to change one vane. I’ve never had an issue with vane adhesion on axis arrows. I use plain old platinum fletch tite and blazer vanes. I like to keep things simple and that just plain work.