Used rifles

[Slick8]

I agree with the above that you 06 would work with some upgrades. I also understand your desire to keep it as it, there's value in that.

I also get your desire for a new rifle, I live with that addiction and have several 1 month chips from GA...
I agree with the above, I've bought used rifles off the rack and had great luck. I do feel marginally better about buying for an individual on sites such as this.

There's so many great cartridges to consider for shooting elk to the 4-500 yard range, hard to list them all.

I'll say this, a properly loaded 223 will almost get you there and a fast 6 shooting heavy / high BC bullets will do it. Those require a great deal more trigger time and mostly hand loading with the possible exception of a 6 creed and factory ammo.

IMO, here's my factory ammo thoughts.

7 PRC, a long range hammer that will do anything you need. Great factory ammo support.
6.5 PRC, Same as above.

6.5 Creed, great factory ammo support. With the right bullet, it's good for your range plus a little.
308 Win, great factory ammo support. With the right bullet, it's good for about 450 IMO.

The Creed and 308 have an advantage of being a little easier to shoot at higher volume and a greater ammo selection.

Two final thoughts.
A scope that will reliably dial for elevation with a top magnification of 12-18x is a great benefit.
A 22LR or 17HRM similarly equipped is a great long range trainer for trigger time.

 

[Beendare]

I have that exact rifle, M77 in 7 mag that I haven't shot in 25 years or more....I'm an archery guy except for a .223 I shoot coyotes with. I thought about selling it but here in CA it's a hassle to sell it.....so it just sits there in my safe.

 

[35WhelenAI]

"Fear the man who owns but one gun, likely he knows how to use it".

I have a safe full of rifles, since I hit on my all-around rifle in the 35 Whelen AI, I haven't fired any of the others in anger for over 20 years. They get range time but they don't get field time. Something to think about with the 30-06 being so much a part of your history. Pick up another gun but I doubt it's going to replace the 30-06 if you give them equal glass.

 

[TaylorC]

Assuming everything else looks great, I'd still add in the cost of a possible rebarrel before considering anything a "good deal." You can jack up a throat in just a couple of careless range sessions, get mad because it won't group, throw it at the gun store rack for "as new" price.

 

[7RemMag]

I would forget about a brake right quick.
No point in making it louder.
Suppressors are pretty sweet....

Suppressors can be pretty spendy, and some people might not want the hassle. I am not a fan of muzzle brakes either, for the noise factor. I also have a handful of suppressors.

That said, I've found a distinct difference between a well built/engineered muzzle brake and a bad one. I've had them with great big ports that are loud as heck. My Mark V in 280 Ackley is most likely louder than my 7mm Rem Mag with no brake or suppressor, but is not significantly louder. I didn't purchase a brake for that rifle. In fact, I had every intention of tossing it in the cabinet and putting the thread protector on instead. However, when I first shot the rifle, it wasn't bad. It's unlikely that I ever take the brake off other than for cleaning the rifle.

Even though they have limited use/applications for me personally, I certainly wouldn't rule out a well-designed brake for someone who was looking to reduce recoil at the expense of (potentially) a little more noise with a good brake.

 

[Hnthrdr]

No issue with buying used, I would go with a reputable manufacturer, worry about buying a magnum used is that the barrel may be shot up a bit… but most folks hardly shoot

 

[CorbLand]

People generally sell guns for one of two reasons. They need/want money or they don’t shoot. The trick is finding out which one it is.

 

[Hnthrdr]

People generally sell guns for one of two reasons. They need/want money or they don’t shoot. The trick is finding out which one it is.

Best is when it’s the Indian and not the bow per say when someone dumps a “lemon”

 

[W8n4rut]

Yup

 

[Capt.Gene]

Seekins, Bergara, and Tikka would all be good choices for used rifles. Top it with a Mark4 and call it a day.

I would toss SAUER 100’s in that group of bang for the buck rifles, but don’t forget to look at a Benelli LUPO.

 

[Slickhill]

I’m trying to remember the last new in box rifle I bought and I cannot. I probably have upwards of 2-3 dozen hunting rifles and I’m going to say at least 95 percent of them were purchased used. That’s where the bargains are, and there’s a lot of cool stuff that isn’t made any longer so used it is or do without.

The odds of buying one with a toasted barrel is very slim, most guys won’t shoot 200 rounds of centerfire ammo through a hunting rifle in a lifetime. I did get one I had to rebarrel but it’s rare unless you’re talking used ARs or other autoloader.

A huge majority of accuracy issues, that often will drive the uninformed to dump a rifle onto the used rack or at a gunshow, come from improper scope mounting or even more commonly just poor shooting. I tear everything down as soon as I get it home and check for weirdness in bedding and mounting if it comes with a scope or mounts. A factory rifle with a horrendous trigger pull is also hard to shoot accurately and a trigger job or replacement is something that doesn’t cross the mind of Joe Average in many cases.

All that said your 30/06 will be more than fine for elk or anything else at 400 yards. With a generic 180 in factory ammo you are looking at 20-24” of bullet drop when zeroed at 200 yards and shooting at 400. Surely you can guess or learn what roughly 1 foot of holdover looks like through the scope. I’ve killed plenty of stuff with an 06 out to 400 doing just that, elk included. For years I did it with a fixed 4X on top of a 30/06.

 

[Capt.Gene]

Keep the rifle and change the scope. Since you said you have the itch for a new rifle though I would go with a 7prc. I shoot stuff with my 270wsm at 500 yds just fine and I don’t have a scope that I can dial. It does have a reticle with multiple aiming points for different distances but no dialing.

I would like to know more about your scope selection on your 270 WSM. Sig SAUER?

 

[butcherboy]

I would like to know more about your scope selection on your 270 WSM. Sig SAUER?

Leupold with the Boone and Crockett reticle. First mark is 200 yds, then 300, 350, 400, last is 500. I’ve had this scope for about 18 years with no problems. It was on my first 270 WSM when I rolled my atv 800 feet down a mountain. Bent the barrel like a noodle and broke the stock. Scope had no damage and I put it on my next 270 WSM. It’s been a fantastic scope.

 

[Balderdash]

Buy a used Tikka. They're tough, and it's highly unlikely that it'll be shot out.