Upgrading to 2017 Carbon Defiant 34 have question..

ckkone

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I currently shoot a 2013 Hoyt Charger with the 60-70 lb limbs set to 60lb and 29" draw. I have no issue drawing 60lb and can shoot the charger all day long. I don't think I will have a chance to shoot the CD 34 before I order it but I've read that at 70lb it feels like 60lb. So I'm trying to decide if I should get 60-70 limbs or 70-80 limbs.
 

MattB

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Why do you have the poundage set at the lower end of the range? It tends to make bows less efficient by increasing brace. If you are thinking about shooting 70#, buy the 60#-70# or perhaps even one that peak at 65# as Hoyts will usually go 3-4# over listed peak.

I wouldn't buy a 70#-80# unless I planned on shooting near 80#.
 
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ckkone

ckkone

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Thanks for the reply, this will only be my second season with a bow so I'm still learning and I do plan on shooting 70lb this year.
 

mauiarcher

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To me, 70# is 70#, period (80 is 80 etc.). In my opinion The reason people claim that a draw cycle feels less is primarily the transitions and how long at peak weight (aka smooth draw cycle). If I was shooting a 70# at 60#, I would not order 80#....don't care how smooth it is.

If you are shooting a 70# bow easily and feel like you have more in the tank, have a party...you can always shoot an 80# at 70. However, as previously stated, at a slight efficiency penalty.

Personally I order and shoot bows at max poundage. Bows are plenty fast these days and I don't need more than 65#. My elk arrows are over 500grains and still shoot over 280fps. I shoot a lot of arrows and require an "easy" draw cycle. I can shoot 70# no problem and probably do just fine with 80# with limited shooting (wouldn't want to shoot 100 arrows in 1 session). I have absolutely no reason to push my limits and call it my hunting bow...for me there is diminishing returns for a little more penetration. The old cliche is with a well placed shot, I will get a pass through...which is true for 90% of the animals I Hunt even with my 51# long bow. But many try to bow up for the less than perfect shots. To each his own.

I Hunt with what I practice, more accurate and steadier on the shot....easier to hold for extended periods. When you hunt, you don't get to warm up with a few arrows when it is time to shoot an animal. When it's cold and i am squatting, sitting, crounching, or in a stand, I have a lot more confidence with that 1 shot when it is an easy pull back. I am more likely to make that good shot and not need that slightly faster arrow for a less than perfect shot. I know, stuff happens and animals move, jump the string, or there is grass or brush that went under noticed between you and the animal and there would be added benefit of a faster arrow but for me, as stated it is a diminishing return for the added benefit.

Good luck.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 

Tilzbow

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You're currently shooting a 60 - 70# bow at 60. I suggest you try to bottom out the limb bolts on your current bow and see how 70# plus feels to you.
 

Muley15

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I currently shoot a 2013 Hoyt Charger with the 60-70 lb limbs set to 60lb and 29" draw. I have no issue drawing 60lb and can shoot the charger all day long. I don't think I will have a chance to shoot the CD 34 before I order it but I've read that at 70lb it feels like 60lb. So I'm trying to decide if I should get 60-70 limbs or 70-80 limbs.

A CD 34 at 70 is not going to feel like your charger at 60lbs. The draw force curve will be similar.
 

Gumbo

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Another consideration is that let off is 75% on this bow, not 80%. Go 70, I have the bow, it is very smooth but 70 pounds is still 70 pounds. For what it is worth I went down from 70 to 65 pound limbs from my old hunting bow.
 

jmez

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Not many people shoot 80# draw weight, there is a reason for that. Most of us mere mortals can't handle that type of weight.

You are currently shooting 60# and not even sure if 70# is going to be manageable. Stay away from the 80# bow. You get the 60-70 you can shoot anywhere in between. You get the 70-80 and decide that even 70 is too much then you need to rebuild your new bow or dump it and get another.

Also, as was mentioned above. Bows generally perform better near the peak weight. You are better off with a 70# bow shooting 70# than with an 80# bow turned down to 70#.
 

307

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"just because you can, doesn't mean you should"

Buy the bow with your brain, not your ego. Your shoulders will hold up much better and allow you to practice more to become a better archer.
 

Muley15

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Not many people shoot 80# draw weight, there is a reason for that. Most of us mere mortals can't handle that type of weight.

You are currently shooting 60# and not even sure if 70# is going to be manageable. Stay away from the 80# bow. You get the 60-70 you can shoot anywhere in between. You get the 70-80 and decide that even 70 is too much then you need to rebuild your new bow or dump it and get another.

Also, as was mentioned above. Bows generally perform better near the peak weight. You are better off with a 70# bow shooting 70# than with an 80# bow turned down to 70#.


Carbon Defiant let off is 80%.
 
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ckkone

ckkone

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If it were me I would get the 55-65# model max it out and go kill things.

Thanks for the replies, some really good advice. I leaning toward this direction, going to have my current bow set to 65 and shoot it for a while before I make a final decision.
 
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"Feels like drawing 60 pounds" is a relative statement. My older Hoyt with 75% let off feels like I'm drawing 60 pounds compared to my newer bow that's faster and has 80-90% let off. The newer bow has you pulling peak weight sooner and longer in the cycle than my older bow and has a dump into the valley. My older bow has a gentler draw cycle that builds poundage later and rolls into the valley then just stops. The draw cycle can really change the perception of how much weight you're drawing and that's why guys are saying it draws like 60lb.

One thing to think about is that if you get a 70lb bow and bottom the limbs out you'll likely be pulling 72-74lb. Iv'e yet to see a bow draw at it's advertised poundage. Odds are pretty good that a 65lb bow will likely be closer 70lb than an actually labeled 70lb bow.
 
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I'm a fan of pulling the most you can but the jump from 60 to 80 will be unreal. A 65# how will max around 67 and is plenty for anything in North America. I think you are on the right track by turning up the bow you have. Good luck and enjoy the new bow
 
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Ckkone - I will jump in as I am relatively new to archery and share your taste for HOYT's. I bought a 2015 carbon spyder turbo set up at around 65 lbs on a 30 inch draw. it did well for me opinion the first season. Pass throughs on 3 deer.

My ex-bowshop cracked a limb when it was restrung so they ordered me 70-80 limbs in the wrong color. It Was close to opening day so I shot them set up at 77 lbs. I was fine with the extra poundage on the range. One time while sitting in a stand I had some issues pulling the additional pounds seated at an odd angle. I got one clean pass through that included breaking a near side rib and another double lung that broke the arrow on rocky ground. I don't think the deer noticed the extra draw weight at all or at least none of them mentioned it.

After the season I had my new bow shop orde rthe right limbs and restring it again while I was at it. I had them put on 60-70 again set at about 67 lbs.

I can certainly pull more but that 65 lb mark feels best to me. I am looking at the pro defiant 34. If I pull the trigger it will be another 60-70 pound set of limbs.
 

bow_dozer

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Ckkone - I will jump in as I am relatively new to archery and share your taste for HOYT's. I bought a 2015 carbon spyder turbo set up at around 65 lbs on a 30 inch draw. it did well for me opinion the first season. Pass throughs on 3 deer.

My ex-bowshop cracked a limb when it was restrung so they ordered me 70-80 limbs in the wrong color. It Was close to opening day so I shot them set up at 77 lbs. I was fine with the extra poundage on the range. One time while sitting in a stand I had some issues pulling the additional pounds seated at an odd angle. I got one clean pass through that included breaking a near side rib and another double lung that broke the arrow on rocky ground. I don't think the deer noticed the extra draw weight at all or at least none of them mentioned it.

After the season I had my new bow shop orde rthe right limbs and restring it again while I was at it. I had them put on 60-70 again set at about 67 lbs.

I can certainly pull more but that 65 lb mark feels best to me. I am looking at the pro defiant 34. If I pull the trigger it will be another 60-70 pound set of limbs.

How did you get 80lb limbs for a turbo?
 
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They were labeled for a 34, not turbo. My (ex) bow shop said they would work just fine. I don't know enough to say but thy came off as soon as the season was over. One reason I had them replaced was so I wouldn't have a Franken-bow.
 
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ckkone

ckkone

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Got to shoot the 2017 Defiant 34 and 2017 Carbon Defiant both with 60-70 limbs at 65 lbs both #3 cam set to 29", liked feel of the draw on the carbon defiant better. Still want to try the carbon 34 before I decide what to buy.
 
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