Unknown OG 6.5 & Airlock Zero Gravity 6.5

[omicron1792]

I didn’t observe less mirage when I fired them - with or without suppressor cover. The ZG started showing mirage about twice as fast as the OG.

Mirage is pretty subjective. I wonder if you already kind of had an opinion on which one would have worse mirage and it influenced your decision.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

Mirage is pretty subjective. I wonder if you already kind of had an opinion on which one would have worse mirage and it influenced your decision.

Anything is possible, but we are talking objective measures too. I couldn’t keep sighting in my Sauer 100 after five shots without mirage affecting the target. That was with an LS Wild suppressor cover (same cover I have on the OG and OG 6.5). I’ve never encountered that so quickly with any other suppressor.

 

[ebrownw2]

It’s not going to win any beauty contests but it was a win for me and the dremel. Easy fix.

 

[TheM1DoesMyTalking]

Both will end up wearing covers which should mitigate any issues on that front for my use. I’m looking for recommendations on those if you fellows want to help me out.

The LS Wild covers help significantly with mirage.

Here are my temp gun and subjective mirage reduction results with it.
Post in thread 'LS Wild Suppressor Covers' https://rokslide.com/forums/threads/ls-wild-suppressor-covers.399929/post-4142272

 

[Gravel Road]

One other factor can be the IR temp gun. Emissivity will cause a difference although usually not nearly as much as you are seeing. If you want to compare apples to apples you could spot spray a dot of matte black and get a true reading.

 

[ebrownw2]

Well guess what? I now have another thread adapter stuck inside the OG65. After grinding down the precision armament adapter, I very slowly threaded the OG65 on feeling for any resistance. All I could feel was threads. I did not tighten it but instead backed it off and had my son do the same. He too said it didn’t feel like it was touching anything others than threads. No resistance at all. So I hand tightened it on, not tight at all. The adapter, which was put on the rifle using rocksett several days before, stayed behind.

Well as you know I’d been here before. No big deal. Rocksett it back on and it will come off tomorrow just like that stuck tikka adapter did. Except it didn’t. Tried the teflon tape trick someone suggested last time. Nah. It’s in there. If Rocksett doesn’t hold adapters on better than that, this is going to be an ongoing headache for me.

If you can’t use the OG6.5 without an adapter or with their proprietary adapter (1/2-28 only), I would advise you to buy a different suppressor.

 

[Marbles]

Well guess what? I now have another thread adapter stuck inside the OG65. After grinding down the precision armament adapter, I very slowly threaded the OG65 on feeling for any resistance. All I could feel was threads. I did not tighten it but instead backed it off and had my son do the same. He too said it didn’t feel like it was touching anything others than threads. No resistance at all. So I hand tightened it on, not tight at all. The adapter, which was put on the rifle using rocksett several days before, stayed behind.

Well as you know I’d been here before. No big deal. Rocksett it back on and it will come off tomorrow just like that stuck tikka adapter did. Except it didn’t. Tried the teflon tape trick someone suggested last time. Nah. It’s in there. If Rocksett doesn’t hold adapters on better than that, this is going to be an ongoing headache for me.

If you can’t use the OG6.5 without an adapter or with their proprietary adapter (1/2-28 only), I would advise you to buy a different suppressor.

Heat helps Rocksett hold. But having old Rocksett in the threads may be causing an issue, or oil.

I would trying soaking the can, either 24+ hours in a bucket or 15 to 30 minutes in boiling water. Then use high pressure water to try and clean off the threads, then hit them with some break cleaner.

Clean the muzzle threads well. Using a heat gun heat the muzzle threads to about 200 degrees F, put a few drops of Rocksett on the threads and quickly screw the can on. Then let sit for 24 hours.

Once you get it out, I would consider pulling the adapter and repeating the process to insure it is on well. Outside of the can you can speed up curing with a heat gun.

If you use a lot of Rocksett, you can get a cured crust with liquid Rocksett in the middle, then when it heats up the liquid boils and breaks everything free (done that, but not with an OTB can thankfully). A heat gun avoids that possibly.

 

[nm.otter]

I used blue Loctite to remove my OG after it got wedged on the adapter corners. Cleaned threads with acetone first, two drops of Loctite, and let it set overnight. OG came off easily enough, but after ten minutes with a heat gun, the adapter still took a lot of effort (and cost me a couple of scuffs in the barrel Cerakote).

Cleaned it all up again and Rocksetted back on with a torque wrench. Filed down the adapter corners a bit and the OG shouldered up nice and square.

 

[Formidilosus]

Well guess what? I now have another thread adapter stuck inside the OG65. After grinding down the precision armament adapter, I very slowly threaded the OG65 on feeling for any resistance. All I could feel was threads. I did not tighten it but instead backed it off and had my son do the same. He too said it didn’t feel like it was touching anything others than threads. No resistance at all. So I hand tightened it on, not tight at all. The adapter, which was put on the rifle using rocksett several days before, stayed behind.

Well as you know I’d been here before. No big deal. Rocksett it back on and it will come off tomorrow just like that stuck tikka adapter did. Except it didn’t. Tried the teflon tape trick someone suggested last time. Nah. It’s in there. If Rocksett doesn’t hold adapters on better than that, this is going to be an ongoing headache for me.

If you can’t use the OG6.5 without an adapter or with their proprietary adapter (1/2-28 only), I would advise you to buy a different suppressor.

Or you somehow make easy things difficult.

When you put an adapter on- clean well on all threads- barrel and inside the adapter. Roksett well, torque adapter on tight. Let it dry.

Before you go the range, make sure your can goes over the adapter.

Before you go to the range, make sure it will thread in the rifles you intend to use it on.

Check whether it will go over the new adapter before you go to the range. 2 mins with a file will fix it if not. If you use a dremel and the adapter gets hot from grinding, you’ll want to pull it and redo the cleaning/Roksett/torque thing.


This is only as hard as you make it.

 

[ebrownw2]

Before I saw Marble’s advice, I acted on the same premise just not as thoroughly as recommended. I cleaned the threads on the rifle throughly with brake cleaner and a brush, threaded on the Can/adapter, removed, cleaned threads again, repeated about 10-15 times until it seemed I had things clean enough. Blew it all out and off with air, reapplied rocksett, hit it with the heat gun for 5-10 minutes to speed up/help the cure.

If this doesn’t work I’ll boil it out as suggested and try again.

 

[ebrownw2]

If you use a dremel and the adapter gets hot from grinding, you’ll want to pull it and redo the cleaning/Roksett/torque thing.

I’ve suspected this is what got me this last time.

I know most crashes are due to pilot error, and that this is my mess. The biggest error I’ve made was not researching what diameter thread adapter an over the barrel can would accommodate when I knew I was going to have to use them.

The airlock is immune to this potential problem that my fellow dummies out there needing thread adapters might have. It’s also smaller, lighter, and quieter.