We are testing a pile of new revisions tomorrow, I suspect we are close to having the design finished. Specs as of right now. 8.125" ish long (.125ish for the end cap) 1.8" OD. 14-15oz. 4" OTB 4.125 After.
UM/S2H/Suppressors/Scopes and More!
- Thread starter Unknown Munitions
- Start date
The Bore is printed at .350", every can after printing gets checked with .348 drill rod. After they pass the drill rod step they get screwed onto a QC barrel where concentricity is checked with a .30 Cal rod that goes into the bore and passes through the suppressor. The proud spots (I call them stalagmites) are caused by the laser passing through the layer it is currently working on to powder from a previous layer. If there were stalagmites that went straight into the bore the .348 drill rod would break them off as it passes through, you will not get a baffle strike because of them. They are very easy to break off and do break off when firing them. We have thousands of rounds through these suppressors and have not had an issue with them. I don't doubt it is possible to have an issue, but we havent seen it and we have shot them a lot, a lot. That said, if you are extra worried about it you should be able to break them off with a screw driver with little effort!
My last can with a trust got approved in 3 days. Submitted for my OG today.
JBahr
WKR
- Joined
- May 29, 2016
- Messages
- 335
@Unknown Suppressors thank you for the explination. This is exatly what I was looking for and satisfys my OCD. I did reach into the bore with a screw driver to see if anything would come loose easily. Nothing did.
I shot it today on the 6 PRC and was impressed. For 4 inches in front of the barrel it was comparible to my Banish 30 Gold. The gold was on a 6.5 PRC and was quieter to my ear. Did a little video cut up for comparision, it's damn hard to tell them apart there. I'll need to video something from further away to see if there is a difference there. Both 22" barrels.
Great video! You can hear a significant tone difference between the two!
I thought so too. The UM OG was definitely more boomy and the banish seemed higher pitched. But I don’t put too much stock in a cell phone or go pro’s ability to record sound realistically
If anyone isn't aware, SRS is doing the finish machine work on all of these cans.
We do a "pass thru" check with a *.338* rod on every can. (same as we do on all our muzzle brakes post deburr processing. Every can also gets the threads gaged, and then threaded onto a rifle for a concentricity / bore alignment check. A caliper check on the thru bore will roughly say .340" - .348", depending on how you are measuring it.
Because the print resolution (coarse finish) the thru bores technically come out trochoidal, which is just a fancy way of saying they are multi faceted round shape. So if you measure it at one location and rotate say 15 degrees, you will most likely get a slightly different number. Obviously the "pin pass thru" is checking all the high spots that could potentially catch a bullet.
If anyone has any other questions, let me know.
Ken
Mattman215
Lil-Rokslider
- Joined
- Mar 12, 2023
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- 167
Are you guys still gonna be doing the custom ammo work ?
I’ve said it before that even if the OG isn’t a huge difference between what I already have as long as it’s similar I’ll be happy. It’s the same price basically as the other lighter weight types and 2+ inches shorter. It’s also currently available to purchase from a company who seems to care. I’m not saying the other companies don’t care I just don’t see them posting and answering all our questions. Maybe they are I’m just not familiar with where. Thanks for the video comparison.
This is exactly what I’m hoping for in purchasing as well. I see a company that wants their startup and venture into this market to flourish and they are here to back it. There is nothing else on the market that only adds 4” to over all length. If it’s even close to the same as a 6.5-7” can in reduction that’s huge to me. I’ve also generally always chose to purchase shorter cans because anything supersonic isn’t quite. As long as it gets it hearing safe for a couple shots that’s great. The other times and for continued fire I’ll be wearing ears.
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- May 8, 2022
- Messages
- 589
Read the ‘RoadMap’ on US website today, very cool, I love the vision for the path ahead.
Wanted to cast a big vote for the .375 version of the Big Stick!
Between all the shortish barrel 375s in AK and Canadia, Safari rifles (due to some country’s min. caliber rules on dg), subsonic stuff like 375 Raptor, straight wall/.35 cal weird white tail state rules (that I don’t fully know or understand), ELR Cheytac stuff, etc.
I’d imagine there’s a decent market for it, and few other companies make one besides AB, TBAC, Rex Silentium.
AB’s barrel rating for 375 H&H is 22” IIRC, so that kills it for me, TBAC Magnus is quite spendy, and Rex I haven’t tried but doesn’t rock the Magnus style brake option. If it would handle .375 Ruger in a 16” barrel and the brake can be swapped to a flat end cap pretty easily, the brake actually cuts some recoil a la Magnus, and weighed less than 16oz. I’d have to have one!
Also, wonder if a 338 bore would quiet say a 338 win mag down that much more vs a 375 bore? (Edit: corrected spelling)
P.S. secretly wondering if the future suppressors name pays homage to the rants of an infamously colorful member from a diff site?
Wanted to cast a big vote for the .375 version of the Big Stick!
Between all the shortish barrel 375s in AK and Canadia, Safari rifles (due to some country’s min. caliber rules on dg), subsonic stuff like 375 Raptor, straight wall/.35 cal weird white tail state rules (that I don’t fully know or understand), ELR Cheytac stuff, etc.
I’d imagine there’s a decent market for it, and few other companies make one besides AB, TBAC, Rex Silentium.
AB’s barrel rating for 375 H&H is 22” IIRC, so that kills it for me, TBAC Magnus is quite spendy, and Rex I haven’t tried but doesn’t rock the Magnus style brake option. If it would handle .375 Ruger in a 16” barrel and the brake can be swapped to a flat end cap pretty easily, the brake actually cuts some recoil a la Magnus, and weighed less than 16oz. I’d have to have one!
Also, wonder if a 338 bore would quiet say a 338 win mag down that much more vs a 375 bore? (Edit: corrected spelling)
P.S. secretly wondering if the future suppressors name pays homage to the rants of an infamously colorful member from a diff site?
wind gypsy
"DADDY"
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2014
- Messages
- 11,406
Sounds like a gem on every front but weight.
We reamed out a few old OG prototypes to see what it would do with a .416 Rem. Short answer, I dont think the can is big enough, but we got a really good baseline though and spot to work from.Read the ‘RoadMap’ on US website today, very cool, I love the vision for the path ahead.
Wanted to cast a big vote for the .375 version of the Big Stick!
Between all the shortish barrel 375s in AK and Canadia, Safari rifles (due to some country’s min. caliber rules on dg), subsonic stuff like 375 Raptor, straight wall/.35 cal weird white tail state rules (that I don’t fully know or understand), ELR Cheytac stuff, etc.
I’d imagine there’s a decent market for it, and few other companies make one besides AB, TBAC, Rex Silentium.
AB’s barrel rating for 375 H&H is 22” IIRC, so that kills it for me, TBAC Magnus is quite spendy, and Rex I haven’t tried but doesn’t rock the Magnus style brake option. If it would handle .375 Ruger in a 16” barrel and the brake can be swapped to a flat end cap pretty easily, the brake actually cuts some recoil a la Magnus, and weighed less than 16oz. I’d have to have one!
Also, wonder if a 338 bore would quiet say a 338 win mag down that much more vs a 375 bore? (Edit: corrected spelling)
P.S. secretly wondering if the future suppressors name pays homage to the rants of an infamously colorful member from a diff site?
I know, I would like to get it under 14oz but I don't think there is a way to do it without compromises.
Hurley88
Lil-Rokslider
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2022
- Messages
- 142
Min’s been sitting at the FFL since Monday, finally able to break free today & grab it. I bought the 1/2-28 to 5/8-24 adapter & tool bc I don’t want to wait for a shouldered barrel.
It’s 3D printed so I ran the adapter into the suppressor just to make sure I don’t have any surprises at the range…it was pretty rough. Not a complaint, just glad I did bc it took a lot of force (by hand) to run it all the way in and even more to get it out. Used the tool to do that. This is more an FYI for guys to test on/off prior to their first range trip.
So, I broke out a rod & bore brush that isn’t getting used anymore, some light cleaner, got to work on them. While it was all sitting there I thought about the above post, shrugged, and decided to be curious. Ignoring my own advice I lightly brushed up & down the “bore” to see if stalagmites vanished. And they do. Kinda cool, thought I’d share pics of afterwards. Didn’t take any from before but they looked just like the ones @JBahr posted.
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Hurley88
Lil-Rokslider
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2022
- Messages
- 142
When the barrel comes in I’ll set up two identical Tikkas, scopes & all. One will be 20” and one 16” with the OG. Just to show differences in balance, if any.
We put a ton of effort into getting all the powder out of the suppressors. Every step whether it’s digging them out of the powder for the first time, before & after heat treat, machining the ends and threading, or when they go to cerakote. All three steps we have powder come out that wouldn’t come out in the previous step. Along those same lines, after you start shooting it more powder will break loose that wouldn’t break loose in all the previous steps! This is why you see sparks when you shoot the can for the first 100 rounds or so (sometimes more, sometimes less). Very frustrating on our end and we are constantly working on better ways to remove the powder. That said, it is very possible that powder shook loose in shipping and if that powder gets on the threads they feel very rough! Im guessing that’s what happened in your case. Very easy to clean, we use an air wand if you are just trying to clean the threads but a brush is likely doing a better job! Thank you for the heads up and an opportunity to explain!
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