Ultralight reliable tikka rings?

[Macintosh]

@Formidilosus @BLJ and anyone else who’s played around with sportsmatch rings a bunch. Scope I am mounting in TO48’s needs to come rearward a bit, which will prevent using the recoil lug on the front ring.
Do you consider this a problem or not? Would you consider this still a reliable setup?

If your experience without any recoil lug is good its no issue for me, just would prefer to avoid any known problems before I final assemble, zero, etc as I have no history with these rings.

And, what torque are you using in this case. These rings use a 3mm allen wrench which according to the instructions should be 38inlb for the rail and 15 for rings. That is less than I typically use, but these being reasonable quality I was surprised to see such low values. What are you all using?

 

[Formidilosus]

@Formidilosus @BLJ and anyone else who’s played around with sportsmatch rings a bunch. Scope I am mounting in TO48’s needs to come rearward a bit, which will prevent using the recoil lug on the front ring.
Do you consider this a problem or not? Would you consider this still a reliable setup?

If your experience without any recoil lug is good its no issue for me, just would prefer to avoid any known problems before I final assemble, zero, etc as I have no history with these rings.

I would not use them without the recoil pin.

And, what torque are you using in this case. These rings use a 3mm allen wrench which according to the instructions should be 38inlb for the rail and 15 for rings. That is less than I typically use, but these being reasonable quality I was surprised to see such low values. What are you all using?

Tight on the base screws, 25in-lbs on ring caps.

 

[Macintosh]

I would not use them without the recoil pin.

(Face/palm)

Ok, fair. I can try this for a bit, its close, but Im fairly certain as soon as I introduce a pack strap I’ll need less eye relief, and I’m already only an rch off the objective bell. So I dont think its going to work.

What are my reliable options for 1” low rings without a pic rail? Is UM the only option? They’re just heavy and this build is specifically focused on being as light as I can reasonably get.

Maybe I can fab some sort of plug for the big recoil lug hole in the action that supports the recoil pin at the rear side of the hole??

 

[Formidilosus]

(Face/palm)

Ok, fair. I can try this for a bit, its close, but Im fairly certain as soon as I introduce a pack strap I’ll need less eye relief, and I’m already only an rch off the objective bell. So I dont think its going to work.

What are my reliable options for 1” low rings without a pic rail? Is UM the only option? They’re just heavy and this build is specifically focused on being as light as I can reasonably get.

Maybe I can fab some sort of plug for the big recoil lug hole in the action that supports the recoil pin at the rear side of the hole??

Sportsmatch, UM, and a proper pic rail bonded are really the only options I would choose.

 

[BLJ]

@Formidilosus @BLJ and anyone else who’s played around with sportsmatch rings a bunch. Scope I am mounting in TO48’s needs to come rearward a bit, which will prevent using the recoil lug on the front ring.
Do you consider this a problem or not? Would you consider this still a reliable setup?

If your experience without any recoil lug is good its no issue for me, just would prefer to avoid any known problems before I final assemble, zero, etc as I have no history with these rings.

And, what torque are you using in this case. These rings use a 3mm allen wrench which according to the instructions should be 38inlb for the rail and 15 for rings. That is less than I typically use, but these being reasonable quality I was surprised to see such low values. What are you all using?

I’ve never used the Sportsmatch rings without the recoil pin on a center fire rifle.

I did try it on a CZ457 for a light use squirrel gun for a short time.
I didn’t notice any issues but that was a short, mild case on a completely different rifle.

If I need more room I’ve used a rail in the past.
I will say that my next setup will be UM rings.
It’s the only real option besides a rail.
And the last time I checked on Airguns of Arizona the Sportsmatch rings were $90
At that point the mounting options that the UM rings offer is worth the additional $40.
IMO.

 

[Shortschaf]

Maybe I can fab some sort of plug for the big recoil lug hole in the action that supports the recoil pin at the rear side of the hole??

I just butt both rings into a capscrew. Should really file a small flat so it interfaces more with the ring, but I havent gotten to that

 

[BLJ]

I just butt both rings into a capscrew. Should really file a small flat so it interfaces more with the ring, but I havent gotten to that

That’s an interesting idea.

What cartridge and how many rounds?
Any issues?

 

[Macintosh]

I just butt both rings into a capscrew. Should really file a small flat so it interfaces more with the ring, but I havent gotten to that

Thats a good idea. It wont work for me for the front ring, but I could use it on the rear ring if needed. Also thinking about bedding the sportsmatch pin into the rear-end of lug recess, which would give me 1/8”. Im **that** close, but need to verify if its enough.

Another option, I have some of the UM pins from another gun, could use the sportsmatch hole and/or drill a hole in the bottom of the other ring and use those instead. That would give me 1/4” on the front ring and will definitely work.

Edit: the UM Pin was the least intrusive, so I tried that first. I’m pretty certain this will work fine. In the photo below, the ring is held in place by a threaded UM Pin placed into the existing ring hole. The pencil line is where the ring was when using the provided recoil lug, it’s a .29” difference. I don’t know if UM provides their recoil pins by themselves, but for anyone else having this issue, it could be a good solution.

 

[Shortschaf]

Thats a good idea. It wont work for me for the front ring, but I could use it on the rear ring if needed. Also thinking about bedding the sportsmatch pin into the rear-end of lug recess, which would give me 1/8”. Im **that** close, but need to verify if its enough.

Another option, I have some of the UM pins from another gun, could use the sportsmatch hole and/or drill a hole in the bottom of the other ring and use those instead. That would give me 1/4” on the front ring and will definitely work.

Yeah that rear ring is as far back as you can go. The bolt actually touches it so you would be best to put a small chamfer on rear right corner.

Bedding/epoxying a pin in front of the front ring is what I would do as well. 3mm drill bit

If you have access to a mill, adding a 3mm pin hole anywhere you want would be simple enough too

 

[Macintosh]

UM pin I think is the cleanest solution for now—edit above^^. Position with and without a pack seems perfect on the scope, pending a range trip.

And, thanks guys.

 

[bigsky_hunter]

I used a UM pin and put the “front” ring with hole in the back. Worked for my purposes as there are lots of mounting options in the back. From my use it hasn’t made a difference which ring has the pin.

 

[Shortschaf]

From my use it hasn’t made a difference which ring has the pin.

Just confirming it doesnt matter which ring has the pin