Tuning

[BC_TREKKER]

I've only been into archery for a year. Just starting tuning. No press and bowshop doesn't get into the nitty gritty. I'm all good for hunting. Fixed blade broadheads out to 50 yards willing to shoot 30 yards. Question is when I walk back tune field points they are off diagonally couple inches from 20-40 yards. But my fixed blades hit bullseye out to 50 yards. This seems backwards to me.

 

[MattB]

Look up the Easton tuning guide and use that to properly tune your bow.

 

[Big_6]

Level your sight axis.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

[RAPTOR]

I hunt, and got to the point where I just broadhead tune and call it good. Admittedly, I do still shoot through paper, get damn close, then move to fixed blades from 40-60 yards. Currently IW 100 solids dead on at 85. I would drive myself nuts with bareshaft tuning, walkback tuning, etc.

 

[lpplayer59]

If it helps. Zero your sight with FP at 20 yards: Draw a vertical line on the target. Shoot FP at 20. Now walk back to 30 using your 20 yard pin and shoot. (Aim at the top of the target obviously) This will show you how far of left and right. Micro adjust until the arrows hit left and right dead center out to 40-50. Then repeat with the broadheads to dial them in. Now, you need a good flying well built Broadhead also and the proper spined arrow. The head makes a huge difference. I do this out to 50 yards with my BHs. (Need a big enough target)

 

[Wapiti1]

If you are happy with the broadhead flight and grouping, you are done. Go hunt. I would argue that there is more value at this point in practice than in fiddling with your bow. Fiddle with it next spring.

Jeremy

 

[BC_TREKKER]

Thanks for the input. Broadheads are grouping at my reasonable hunting distance so I'm happy with that. It was my understanding that fp would fly better than broadheads. I'm wandering why the fieldpoints gradually move out but broadheads stay I'm line. I don't want to tinker in the middle of hunting season for sure. I'd like at some point for my fp to hit the same as broad heads because my grouse blunts hit 3 in to the left of my bh. But I will just make due and tinker in the spring which was suggested

 

[Skerhunter]

When you are tuning your adjustments make your field points and broad heads impact closer and closer together, until they are impacting the exact same spot. Then you adjust your sight to where your arrows are hitting.

You have simply sighted your bow in to where your broadheads impact. So if you finish tuning your bow, all arrows/heads will hit the same spot.

 

[Shadowcaster]

Maybe its just me, but if your bow shop doesn't get into the "nitty gritty" which is just ensuring your bow is in tune and FP's are hitting with BH's, you should really move on to another bow shop.

 

[BC_TREKKER]

Maybe its just me, but if your bow shop doesn't get into the "nitty gritty" which is just ensuring your bow is in tune and FP's are hitting with BH's, you should really move on to another bow shop.

No other bow shops in area. But I hear ya

 

[BC_TREKKER]

When you are tuning your adjustments make your field points and broad heads impact closer and closer together, until they are impacting the exact same spot. Then you adjust your sight to where your arrows are hitting.

You have simply sighted your bow in to where your broadheads impact. So if you finish tuning your bow, all arrows/heads will hit the same spot.

I've tried that but it seems like either way I move the rest the bh and fp move the same. Is this a cam lean issue?

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I've tried that but it seems like either way I move the rest the bh and fp move the same. Is this a cam lean issue?

Possibly. What bow are you shooting? Where are field points hitting relative to broadheads...high/low, left/right?

 

[BC_TREKKER]

Possibly. What bow are you shooting? Where are field points hitting relative to broadheads...high/low, left/right?

I shoot left handed bowtech amplify, 27.5 dl 62lbs 350 spine rip cord drop away rest fp shooting 3 inches to left at 20 and 30 yards. I'm consistently shooting 1 inch groups at 30 yards. Up and down is perfect

 

[Mighty Mouse]

I shoot left handed bowtech amplify, 27.5 dl 62lbs 350 spine rip cord drop away rest fp shooting 3 inches to left at 20 and 30 yards. I'm consistently shooting 1 inch groups at 30 yards. Up and down is perfect

That bow doesn't have split yokes or the Deadlock system, so your only option for horizontal tuning (other than adjusting rest windage) would be to shim the cams. Conventional tuning wisdom would say shim the cams to the left if broadheads are hitting right of field points. I don't know if Bowtech offers shims specifically for that bow, but Lancaster Archery sells a generic shim kit that might work. You would need a bow press to change the shims.

 

[Wapiti1]

That bow doesn't have split yokes or the Deadlock system, so your only option for horizontal tuning (other than adjusting rest windage) would be to shim the cams. Conventional tuning wisdom would say shim the cams to the left if broadheads are hitting right of field points. I don't know if Bowtech offers shims specifically for that bow, but Lancaster Archery sells a generic shim kit that might work. You would need a bow press to change the shims.

Not sure that will do it. If you are 3" off at 20 and 3" off at 30, can cam lean do that? I guess I don't see that geometrically working. I would expect the difference at 20 to be less than at 30.

I would honestly look at form, and draw length as a more likely culprit. Tuning is about launching an arrow straight relative to you. Errors in tuning are angular, and increase with distance. Assuming a properly spined arrow, or over spined arrow. Under spined and weird happens. The specs given look good to me for spine assuming a 25-50gr insert and 100ish grain broadhead.

Not arguing, just trying to puzzle through a consistent error at different yardages. When I am off, it gets worse at distance. Unless I am just shooting crap that day, and nothing helps.

Seems like some bare shaft work may be warranted. Or shooting through paper.

Jeremy

 

[Mighty Mouse]

Not sure that will do it. If you are 3" off at 20 and 3" off at 30, can cam lean do that? I guess I don't see that geometrically working. I would expect the difference at 20 to be less than at 30.

I would honestly look at form, and draw length as a more likely culprit. Tuning is about launching an arrow straight relative to you. Errors in tuning are angular, and increase with distance. Assuming a properly spined arrow, or over spined arrow. Under spined and weird happens. The specs given look good to me for spine assuming a 25-50gr insert and 100ish grain broadhead.

Not arguing, just trying to puzzle through a consistent error at different yardages. When I am off, it gets worse at distance. Unless I am just shooting crap that day, and nothing helps.

Seems like some bare shaft work may be warranted. Or shooting through paper.

Jeremy

I agree that a tuning issue should produce an increasing disparity between FP and BH POI as yardage increases, but the POI shift from 20 to 30 yds may be so small that it escapes notice or is obscured by the shooter's (in)accuracy/group size.

FWIW I would expect a form or draw length issue to also produce a POI difference that increases with yardage.