Tuning Help

[BigDog00]

2015 PSE Decree HD
31.5" draw
67 lbs
Axis 260, 31.25", 100gr point, blazers, 4" wrap

So I got in on the OT2 thread a few months ago and it looked like I was underpinned pretty bad with the Easton Axis 300's. I got some 260's and now I'm getting some funky paper tears. My previous arrow setup was 30.75" Axis 300 with 50g brass insert, 4" wrap, and 3 fletch blazers (520 gr). I bumped the length up to 31.25" on the 260's and have been planning on running everything else the same, maybe swapping to max stealth vanes. Right now I'm shooting paper with bare shafts and getting point high (~1/2") with a 2" nock right tear. I've messed with the rest and haven't seen any changes. Ive also tried bumping up the point weight from 100gr to 125gr and it also doesn't seem to help. I thought it may be a form issues, but I can't get it to tear any other way by trying different grips. I'm shooting at 15ft into a block target. I made sure the paper was far enough in front that the arrow isn't hitting the target before completely going through. I've also tried turing the nock and that doesn't seem to do much of anything.

I did have a couple of Axis 300's that are fletched that I gave a shot. One had the old 7" factory wrap and the other did not have a wrap. The wrapped arrow was just slightly point high (nearly a bullet hole) and the non wrapped arrow was point high with the hard right tear.

Could I be over spinned? What else should I try?

 

[Coastiehunter2]

You should be able to tune out stiff arrows, put your rest in center shot maybe even cheat it 1/8th to the left, then put about 3 twist in right yoke and take 3 out of left yoke. Check your grip make sure your not torking, should fix it.

 

[doverpack12]

Play with your grip and that tear should move around some. Earlier this year I went from 2” right tear to bullets with a grip adjustment I forgot about from the year before.

 

[Topo_trekker]

Bareshaft planing test. Check it out in Easton tuning guide, just brought back to top of archery forum. Basically shoot bareshaft at 20-30yrds and adjust rest until arrow flies dead straight. Make sure there is no wind and you get a good release. If arrow flight is no good it’s got to be a grip thing or facial pressure. Try shooting with zero facial pressure and make sure you thumb and top 2 fingers are just ever so slightly on grip and not torquing. Once you figure this out then move onto paper testing with vanes.


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[BigDog00]

So I've gotten the right tear out with a yoke adjustment and messing with my grip some more. I can't seem to get the nock low out of it though. The best it looks is with my rest adjusted down, but the arrow is visibly nock high just by looking at it from the side of the bow. This is still producing about a 1" nock low tear.

 

[Coastiehunter2]

So you lowered the rest? Might be a timeing issue make sure cams are timed.

 

[BigDog00]

Yes, lowered it pretty significantly. I thought it could be timing but I don't have a draw board to check it.

 

[Coastiehunter2]

I'm guessing its your timing, I hang my bows on a hook that screws into a wall stud, also works as a draw board just be carful make sure you pull straight down and straight up so you don't derail

 

[El Gavilan]

Just add a couple twists to the control cable and see if it helps and go from there.

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[Beendare]

Hard to say with the info....some general info.

Personally, I start with the easy stuff...and if that doesn't work go back and check cam timing. If you didn't check timing when installing a new string...its a good idea to go all the way back to the beginning and START with cam timing as if those cams are off you will never get BH's to fly.

I think bare shafting is a great tuning technique....but not through paper as that can give you false info. I like bare shafting with fletched arrows at 20 yds.....you can literally see your arrows flying straight. Once those group together, Then confirm with shooting BH's for groups. KEY TUNING POINT; only change one thing at a time.

Tuning is like a flow chart. Skip steps and you might get lucky....you will know quickly. I mostly paper tune with FP's, then its only a tiny adjustment with your rest or Nokking point to get BH's grouping perfect. If that doesn't work check for FLETCHING CONTACT first...if not then go back to the beginning and start with cam timing on a draw board.

Once Cams and no contact are confirmed^, its usually a yoke or tiny adjustment that will get arrows grouping.

IF YOU JUST CAN'T GET IT TO TUNE; There is always a chance its form related. Scattering arrows vs shooting them to the same spot is an indication its inconsistent form. I've seen a purposely detuned bow that was WAY out of adjustment.....still shoot arrows to the same spot as the shooter is doing the exact same thing every time.

Tuning is critical to insure you have perfect arrow flight.

IF YOU CAN'T GET A FIXED BLADE TO GROUP...just screwing on a mech head doesn't solve your poor arrow flight problem...its still there. That can cause all sorts of poor performance when hunting...and no doubt the reason some folks complain about poor performance from mech heads is a tuning error.



......

 

[CAhunter]

I hope not to derail the thread. When shooting bare shafts with fletched arrows what does it mean when your bare shafts are hitting to the same point as fletched but are hitting tail left. I believe with a recurve this would indicate your under spined. Does that still apply with a compound and release?