Truck maintenance before hunting trips

[SW hunter]

Lesson learned. Zip tie a spare key up on frame in case you lock keys in cab far from any town. Cheaper than the used windows out of junkyard for about $80.

Chipped keys can be expensive if programmed. A plain old $4 hardware store cut key will work to open a door. Or be used as a template in case you lose them altogether.

 

[nrh6.7]

Got some new shoes for the truck. Took the advice of the forum and went with Coopers, but decided to get the stt pro over the s/t maxx.

 

[Laelkhunter]

Lesson learned. Zip tie a spare key up on frame in case you lock keys in cab far from any town. Cheaper than the used windows out of junkyard for about $80.

Chipped keys can be expensive if programmed. A plain old $4 hardware store cut key will work to open a door. Or be used as a template in case you lose them altogether.

I have used a plastic "key box" with a magnet attached. I stick it to the inside of the rear bumper. It keeps the key clean, and easy to reach in case it's needed.

 

[Capt J]

I check fluids, belts, hoses, batteries, alternators as a lot have mentioned. I also check all my ball joints, sway bar, tie rod, and steering bushings. On these heavy diesels especially with after market bumpers, larger tires, and winches the front ends tend to wear down faster. These are definitely not fun road repairs.

 

[DenverCountryBoy]

Just regular maintenance stuff. It's time for the oil and brakes to get changed. I might also put a new door handle on so I don't have to keep cranking the window and using the exterior one.

I keep a small tool kit with socket set, tire plugs, foot pump, spare belt, and one bottle of each fluid, and some hose clamps. I figure that if there is a catastrophic failure, that should be enough to limp back to town. I try to park the truck so I can get a rolling bump start if needed.

If the U joint or drive shaft fail, I figure I can put it in four wheel and get down with just FWD.

 

[neverquit]

I change my belts pulleys and hoses every 3 years. Around $100 for factory parts and a 1/2 days labor. Seems cheap to make it to your destination

 

[Brado16]

I have used a plastic "key box" with a magnet attached. I stick it to the inside of the rear bumper. It keeps the key clean, and easy to reach in case it's needed.

I do the same and it has saved my butt more than once!

 

[nrh6.7]

I change my belts pulleys and hoses every 3 years. Around $100 for factory parts and a 1/2 days labor. Seems cheap to make it to your destination

I just priced all new radiator hoses for my truck to the tune of $328...ouch! Two radiators, 5 hoses along with two water pumps. May have to wait on those, but everything else will be changed.

 

[Topo_trekker]

Jb weld and a pop can will patch just about everything that can spring a leak on your vehicle. Will at least get you back to town.


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[Laelkhunter]

I just priced all new radiator hoses for my truck to the tune of $328...ouch! Two radiators, 5 hoses along with two water pumps. May have to wait on those, but everything else will be changed.

Is that just the upper and lower hose? I don't change the heater hoses as often as the upper and lower hose. The heater hoses were a factory set that had fittings and came together (two hoses). They were pricey, but I only changed them once after about 7 years. Upper and lower hoses cost me less than $100 with new clamps.

 

[Laelkhunter]

Jb weld and a pop can will patch just about everything that can spring a leak on your vehicle. Will at least get you back to town.


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That and a roll of duct tape, and 3/4" wide electrical tape.

 

[nrh6.7]

Is that just the upper and lower hose? I don't change the heater hoses as often as the upper and lower hose. The heater hoses were a factory set that had fittings and came together (two hoses). They were pricey, but I only changed them once after about 7 years. Upper and lower hoses cost me less than $100 with new clamps.

Here's the list:

Right overflow: $10
Upper hose: $73
Lower rear right: $59
2nd lower hose: $63
Hose to reservoir: $23
Recovery tank hose: $29
Water by pass: $53

Now, I could probably do with waiting on some of those until later, but I have a tendency to replace things preemptively to avoid a future tear down, especially if I have to be in there anyways.

Ended up doing that with my front end about 15K miles ago. Needed two wheel hubs/bearings and a ball joint. Tore the entire front suspension apart and replaced every single wear part, including front axle u joints and coil springs. Shouldn't have to touch that beast of a front end for a long time.

 

[Phaseolus]

I put gas in it and windshield wiper fluid and check the oil, kind of like on any other 60 to 100 mile trip.

Too bad you have to sit in Denver traffic for most of those road trip miles . West Slope=Best Slope.

 

[neverquit]

Is that just the upper and lower hose? I don't change the heater hoses as often as the upper and lower hose. The heater hoses were a factory set that had fittings and came together (two hoses). They were pricey, but I only changed them once after about 7 years. Upper and lower hoses cost me less than $100 with new clamps.

I’m guessing he has a Ford with a 6.7 ps. It has two cooling systems. Even at 328. If the trucks over 100k in miles I’d still do it. Still a bargain compaired to a tow truck.

 

[Laelkhunter]

I’m guessing he has a Ford with a 6.7 ps. It has two cooling systems. Even at 328. If the trucks over 100k in miles I’d still do it. Still a bargain compaired to a tow truck.

Definitely worth it. Especially if the alternative is being stuck on some Mountain pass at 2:30 am trying to get a cellphone signal.

 

[67bronco]

Furthest west Ive been is AR for ducks and I carry a high lift, spare hubs for trailer, greasegun, 4 way, spare tires, jumper cables, tow strap, enough tools to fix most stuff, and a lot of times I throw the Honda 2000 in the back. My main truck is 2wd but I have 2 old broncos. Thought real hard about driving my 96 bronco out to Wyoming, that would be a long day and a half though. She would handle anything ide need to drive through out there I'm pretty sure. My plan is to get chains for my 2wd f150 and keep the comealong and hi lift and use good sense. If bad happens hopefully I can find one of ya'll

I keep up with my maintenance and usually just change oil and check brakes before a long trip. Took my wifes old suburban to AR once after she had just dropped it at dealer for service. I pulled up in stutgartt and heard a God awful sound coming from rear end. Needless to say they didn't inspect the brakes and it was metal to metal. Changed brakes in the parking lot of auto zone. Only tool I didn't have was a c clamp to mash the calipers in. I usually pack tool heavy wherever I go. Never know what you might need or who else you might have to help.

 

[nrh6.7]

Well, I am happy to say that my truck is ready to roll to Wyoming next week. Not that this makes a hill of beans to anyone else, but I'm glad its done!

Items done:

New cooper stt pro tires + spare
New fluid in front & rear differentials
Change fluid in transfer case
Changed both fuel filters
New serpentine belt
New air filter
Oil and filter
Complete fluid swap and new filter for transmission
Had to replace all body mounts due to play between frame and body
Installed 1.5" leveling kit for additional tire clearance
New wiper blades
Couple trips to the chiropractor + ice + ibupropen + more ice

Now...if I get sidelined over a some obscure truck issue, I'm gonna be pissed.

For next year going to add a winch and larger fuel tank.

 

[Peakbagger]

I do nothing special prior to hunting season. Everything that has been mentioned is part of what they call basic maintenance. I do that year round. I have enough to do to get ready for hunting season. I do not need to worry about my rig.