I sent this to a couple other guys....this commentary might help you.
FWIW, there are many ways to skin a cat on trad gear...and "my way" is by no means the only way.
For example, I'm not a LB fan but a longbow is an amazing weapon in the right hands....and whisper quiet. I didn't like the vibration- it messed up my elbow. LB's are a little bit higher degree of difficulty and the performance is less in most cases....much less in some....but if you are shooting very close 10-20yd hunting shots, there might not be a better weapon.
Comments to others offline on ILF recurves;
Cheap fiberglass wood core limbs are surprisingly good. I wouldn't worry about brand. Sure some might be lesser quality and possibly delaminate after 5 years or so....but they served their purpose.
What you will find is those cheap $60 limbs are pretty darn nice....way better than the price dictates. The difference between cheap/Expensive in the ILF limbs is of course better quality and materials....but also weight. The expensive limbs are surprisingly only a little bit better in incremental performance.
ILF Limb weight is measured on a 25" riser...they are typically 4#-8# heavier on a 17" riser...a little bit less on a 19" riser. So you might have to oder 25#-30# limbs to start on a 17" riser. Not all 17/19" limb pockets are the same angle....so those poundages may vary.
Examples; My cheap $60 Axiom limbs are just about as smooth drawing as any limb.....but due to them being heavier, the performance is less....and there is a little more vibration after the shot.
If you were blindfolded and shot my older $240 SF Carbon/foam limbs [now WNS branded] vs my W&W Innos which are in the $600 range.....you would have a very hard time telling the difference. Performance wise...they are so close its not worth measuring....though the Innos are a couple FPS faster...and a tiny bit less vibration...but its VERY close. I have never felt a custom bow limb that comes close to a $250 WNS limb. [sorry custom guys]
You will get some increased performance with the super curve limbs; MK, Uukha, Border....but these are typically much more expensive. My favorite; a used pair of Uukha Vx's [$900 new] and they are about 8 fps faster than my comparable limbs.....and quiet albeit at a higher BH. The Uukha Ex1 evo's at about $375 are a great hunting limb for the $$ too.
I think those WNS limbs in that $200-$300 range in Carbon/foam or carbon/wood are an incredible value that a guy will have a hard time beating unless he spends $400/$500 more. But get the cheapies to start.
String about 59"....you will have to play with Brace height...some limbs like 6 3/4"...some higher like my Uukha limbs like 7 3/8". Get a bow stringer....I like the Selway one with the pouch on one end and a rubber triangle that wedges against the limb on the other end....I can't string my Uukhas without it.
Tune; Don't worry about tune or accuracy for a couple weeks. 400's full length are about perfect for the avg 40#-45# recurve, but they will probably be too stiff for 30#/35#.....load them up with 250/300 gr points. Its hard to get a tune until you develop consistency....in fact its frustrating as heck. A stiff arrow will still shoot in the same hole...if you have good form...but it will shoot a little left for a RH shooter if too stiff.
Aiming; The bigger the gap between where you anchor and your eye....makes accuracy tougher. Example, the olympic guys anchor under their chin....but it makes sense as they are shooting 70/90m.
No matter your aiming style, you want that vertical distance on your face as close to your eye as possible. I anchor high on my cheek. Ideally, if you can get the arrow up near your eye. Its tough to get it that high....unless you do what's called a Fixed Crawl. Lots of youtube vids on this...and its how the top shooters in tourneys shoot 20 yd targets [see the Lancaster tourney vids. You find a spot on the string below the arrow that puts the non right next to your eye and tip of the arrow on a 20 yd spot. You shoot that like a shotgun. For me its about a 7/8" crawl down the string. This lets you use the tip of the arrow like a pin. Super accurate at slot distances.
String walking is very effective too....but I don't like it for hunting as you don't get good arrow flight for many distances outside of what you have it tuned for. For example, if you tuned for your finger touching the nok, a 1 1/4" crawl down the string will give you poor arrow flight.
Arrows; [ Don't worry about this for at least a couple of weeks] You can adjust the length of the arrow to shorten your Point on distance; the longer arrow gives you a shorter PO. Perfect spine is critical with a stickbow. There is no perfect chart. You have to have an idea of a arrow weight you want especially if front loading.
Example; I can shoot 400's and 340's in my 50#/ 64"/30" DL recurve with the Vx's [very high performance]
If shooting the 400's I need to cut them 30 1/2" with std insert and 100gr or 125gr points- about 425gr total. My PO is about 50 yds.
I shoot a 585gr hunting arrow for everything, Centershot 340's, 31" with a 50 gr insert and 150 gr BH, my PO is 38 yds.....keeping my gap at 20 yds less than one inch....where its 1 1/4" with the 400's.
I get mine close.....then shoot a couple bare shafts long and cut them down in 1/4" increments until perfect. Bare shaft tuning....and shooting bare shafts to check your form is the way to go with a stick bow.
I anchor high on my cheek...about 1 1/2"-2" below my eye. My point on distance is 38 yds. So the high point in the arc of the arrow is right about 20 yds. At 20 yds, this equates to a gap of 7/8" between the arrow tip and spot. At 15/25 yds, its about 3/4". At 30 yds, its 1/4".
I draw to that gap in my peripheral vision, aim....then focus on the spot and shoot. Instinctive aiming guys benefit from having that gap smaller also....as you are seeing the tip of that arrow whether you realize it or not.
Coming from a compound, you will know enough about archery to know intuitively what you are doing right and wrong. Grip is much touchier with a stick bow, not gripping perfectly straight pushes arrows from side to side. You will know when you pluck....I never really knew back tension until I shot a recurve for awhile...as I'm a puncher with a compound.
I wouldn't worry about accuracy at first....I would shoot at 5 paces blind bale shooting and concentrating on the different parts of your shot.
Video yourself shooting from different angles- though over the top is best- you will quickly see if your alignment is good...if you are hitting the exact same DL every time, if you are plucking or collapsing.
Key is developing that form. Most guys never do and get frustrated...simply a function of the bow being too heavy. You have to be able to hold that bow at anchor while aiming and actually feel the different components of the shot.
Stick bows are so much more critical...its easy to scatter arrows and get frustrated. They are lighter....and any tiny flaw on the shot is amplified....vs a compound. My compound literally sits still in my hand with little effort...not so with a recurve...and worse with a longbow.
The good news; A stick bow will invigorate you! There is something about them....I can't put my finger on it.
Tougher to hunt with especially on the ground. Easy from. a tree but on the ground is a whole different ballgame. Tough to draw on elk coming in. Tough to rattle whitetails. I'm just starting to figure out how to be more successful on game after hunting whitetails on the ground on public WMA's this fall.
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