Torque Recommendations - Tikka + Sportsmatch + Trijicon

Skydog

Lil-Rokslider
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I'm setting up a rifle/scope that I purchased a while back and need torque recommendations for bases, rings and action screws. I've tried searching here, other forums, and the manufacturers' websites...but finding inconsistent info. I've already cleaned, degreased everything with brake cleaner, etc.

Here's what I have...

1) Tikka T3X .243 Winchester - factory wood stock and factory (plastic/polymer) trigger housing:
- What should the torque be on the front and rear action screws? These are T25 Torx screws.

2) Trijicon Huron 3-9X40 (1 inch tube) - mounting directly to the Tikka integral dovetail rail using Sportsmatch TO48C mounts:
- What should the torque be on the 3mm hex screws that attach the bases/bottom half of the ring to the integral rail?
- What should the torque be on the 3mm hex screws that attach the top half of the ring to the bottom half?

And how would the torque recommendations change (if at all) based on whether one is using versus not using Loctite?

I'm using a Wheeler F.A.T. Wrench to try to get the torque as close as possible.

Thank you!
 
You will get recommendations all over the board for action screw torque. Generally you will hear anywhere from 45-65 in lbs. 65 in lbs has been shown at times to be too much for the factory plastic. Unusual, but it does happen. Anecdotally, I try to get as close to 65 as I can before getting nervous about it. I use 55 in lbs on my .223 and 65in lbs on my 7mm with no issue.

There's been a few threads on here about loctite vs nail polish vs paint pen. This debate creates arguments that get WAY into the weeds for dummies like me (though I'm sure some appreciate the nuance). Those threads are into the dozens of pages last I looked. I torque to factory spec with or without locking agent, no issues.
 
1) 45ish inch pounds.

2) 18-20ish inch pounds.

LocTite? I don’t change anything when I use it, nail polish or paint pen.

I use a FAT wrench too. That’s why I have “ish” on the recommendations. A FAT wrench will get you close enough.

IMO.
 
2) 18-20ish inch pounds.
So...do you use 18-20ish inch pounds on both the clamp screws on the ring bottom clamp (that attaches to the integral rail) and the top ring caps? I was under the impression that it was OK and maybe even preferable to go somewhat heavier on the bottom clamp screws...but I'm not sure.
 
So...do you use 18-20ish inch pounds on both the clamp screws on the ring bottom clamp (that attaches to the integral rail) and the top ring caps? I was under the impression that it was OK and maybe even preferable to go somewhat heavier on the bottom clamp screws...but I'm not sure.
35-40 inch pounds on the rail. I skimmed to quickly and missed that part. My fault.
 
BLJ posted the right answer for the rings and action screws when using factory stock and bottom metal, but just to summarize:

Action screws: 45 in/lbs
Rings to dovetail (3mm): 40 in/lbs
Ring screws: 15 in/lbs
 
BLJ posted the right answer for the rings and action screws when using factory stock and bottom metal, but just to summarize:

Action screws: 45 in/lbs
Rings to dovetail (3mm): 40 in/lbs
Ring screws: 15 in/lbs

This. Should've clarified, my .223 is at 55 on the action screws. This was only after getting "iffy" groups at 45 lbs and I experimented by changing action screw torque. Saw a slightly better result at 55 but that's very anecdotal and not gospel. I believe Form has said the closer to 65 the better, but you are potentially risking deforming the bottom plastic/pulling a screw through. Washers can remedy this, OR you can just do 45 and see if it shoots just fine. If it was me and it shoots well at 45, I personally wouldn't go up.
 
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