Tips for shooting light weight rifles

[Eagle]

What holding the forend/scope/barrel does is compensate for poor body position and poor stock design. The rifle is recoiling up and to the right (for a RH shooting) due to the barrel being above the top edge of the butt, and exaggerated by how most position themselves behind the rifle. The lighter the rifle, the more recoil, the more pronounced it is.

An extremely light rifle with a negative comb (top of the butt pad above centerline of barrel) and a vertical grip, with a straight and neutral body position with no lateral deviation will recoil nearly straight back and does not need any tricks to make it work.


Tikka T3x has one of the better factory stock designs, which while not a negative comb, is at least straight, and with the inclusion of the vertical grip can be shot very well with a traditional hold. I.E.- shooting hand on grip, support hand under stock squeezing rear bag.

Easiest done prone. Get straight behind the rifle with one continuous straight line from muzzle, butt pad, eye, shoulder, right hip, inside of right leg. Recoil pad deep in shoulder pocket. Shooting hand bottom three fingers hook and pull grip into shoulder. Fingers do not wrap, or torque. Thumb nuetral.


This hold can be consistently replicated in the field and from almost all positions. Most “tricks” with light rifles can not.

Here's the thread I started on the same subject, and the above is the best advice I received. https://www.rokslide.com/forums/threads/shooting-light-ultralight-rifles.140393/#post-1346512

 

[Upstate SC]

I found I was gripping my rifle too tight and flinching anticipating recoil.

For the grip, I now hold it firm but not with a death grip like I was.

Shooting more made me more comfortable and I don’t flinch nearly as much anticipating recoil.

If you really want to make a big improvement, buy a suppressor

 

[BCD]

Kimber America | Tips for Shooting Lightweight Kimber Rifles | Kimber America Dealer Portal Blog

Fine 1911 pistols and rifles for both the hunter and shooter. Kimber offers law enforcement tactical pistols and rifles, less-lethal self-defense products, light weight rifles and mountain rifles.

www.kimberamerica.com

Here's another one that mentions it

An Official Journal Of The NRA | How to Shoot Light Rifles

The fundamentals of rifle shooting still apply when shooting lightweights—in fact, they matter more. Here are some lessons that will help you get more from less and tighten your groups when shooting lightweight rifles.

www.americanrifleman.org

This is good stuff! Thank you!

 

[Capt_Craig]

Softer than not front rest helps keep the rifle from bouncing off of the front bag or shooting sticks during recoil. I usually keep a small towel folded up and sitting on top of my front rest. Shooting off of a pack works too. Also make sure any sling swivels or hardware you have on your stock does not contact the front or rear bags during recoil as they will throw shots off too.

 

[Wacko]

Some of the methods for shooting light rifles is to make up for the inconsistencies in the rifle itself as well. Tikkas in synthetic factory form, and most other light rifles, have flimsy stocks. While it may be "better" than some it is still flimsy. Just grab the barrel and forearm at the end with a little squeeze - they will come together. If they don't, you have it really floated and you will still see a large amount of flex.

So any "control" you try to apply to the rifle affects the flex and consistency. This is why the "free recoil" has been touted as a good way to shoot them. It works to some extent, just know if you alter your position in the field - like holding the for-end with your hand in off hand, kneeling doing the same, leaning into a tree doing the same, using a sling, using a bipod etc.. all will change POI. Whether it throws you off too far is a matter of range and stability.

"Loading" bipods will do it as well depending how much pressure you can get - it will vary in the field. I literally tore a front sling stud out of a kimber montana using a bipod. I repaired it and reinforced the area with metal - then sold it...fully disclosing the repair.

The bottom line is to practice in all and any method you may find yourself in. That means a lot of rounds. So easiest done with a light kicker. Or an effective muzzle break.....or add some weight with a good stock that won't flex as much or as easily. Then you can just shoot the rifle with good fundamentals and stop worrying about holding one toe left, 3lbs of face pressure, don't squeeze the for end.....FYI - I've been looking at replacing the stocks on my 4 tikkas myself.