Tikka Tinkerer Help Needed

[ResearchinStuff]

Hi Everyone,

After cutting out the barrel bumps from my T3X lite stock today, I had a weird failure with the washer embedded in the factory bottom "metal" at the rear action screw. I was on my way to 65 in-lbs (guessing maybe 40 in-lb at the time), and the head of the screw went through the washer. The deformation seems permanent, subsequent attempts to secure the rear action screw also had the screw head pop through the bottom metal.

A few questions:

1. Was 65 in-lb the wrong torque target?
2. Has anyone successfully replaced one of the washers in the factory bottom "metal"? If so, how'd you do it?
3. Replacement options: factory bottom metal seems to run $125, Mountain tactical about $150, or a KRG Bravo + AICS mag about $450. Is there an option I've missed? It seems only the CTR factory bottom metal pops up on the forums.

full disclaimer: I'm pretty angry about this failure. The only reason I switched over to Tikkas was to get away from random bs failures and issues with other guns.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

For the tikkas with plastic bottoms and plastic stocks I found the sweet spot is 45ish inch lbs. 65 works much better for the Sakos with metal bottom pieces or replacement stocks and metal bottom pieces for the Tikkas. My sample size isn't huge by any means but it's been consistent amongst my rifles... (6 T3X's and 8 Sakos).

 

[sram9102]

Sent you a PM i have an extra laying around I'll give you a deal on.

 

[ljalberta]

I can’t remember off the top of my head, but I believe the Tikka spec’s torque for the plastic stock is 35 or 45 in/lbs. Sounds like you were shooting over, but I haven’t heard of this damage taking place before personally.

*Edit* An old reference I had as from Tikka for the the T3 was 35 at the front and 30 at the rear. I don’t imagine it’s much different on the T3x

On another note, the Bravo is an added cost, and adds weight, so it’s not for everyone, but I recently dropped one in a .223 and it is a huge upgrade in my books for my uses.

 

[Lawnboi]

65 in lbs is quite a bit on that plastic. I always torqued for 45 on the plastic, tikka might even reccomend less in the manual, I don’t remember as I havnt used factory stock or bottom metal in years.

Mountain tactical is an option, as is the bravo. I’d bet you can find someone here who has one they would send you for free, because many have upgraded.

The bravo gets you more benefits over the factory stock and is the way I’d personally go.

 

[Formidilosus]

A few questions:

1. Was 65 in-lb the wrong torque target?
2. Has anyone successfully replaced one of the washers in the factory bottom "metal"? If so, how'd you do it?
3. Replacement options: factory bottom metal seems to run $125, Mountain tactical about $150, or a KRG Bravo + AICS mag about $450. Is there an option I've missed? It seems only the CTR factory bottom metal pops up on the forums.

full disclaimer: I'm pretty angry about this failure. The only reason I switched over to Tikkas was to get away from random bs failures and issues with other guns.

The factory spec is something like 35in-lbs. I have seen zero shifts with that light of torque, and have used 65in-lbs in at least 80 T3 and T3x’s and have not broken or had an issue.

Take a picture of the issue, I have an extra stock I am happy to take apart for you and send the replacements.

 

[K2e2vin]

3. Replacement options: factory bottom metal seems to run $125, Mountain tactical about $150, or a KRG Bravo + AICS mag about $450. Is there an option I've missed? It seems only the CTR factory bottom metal pops up on the forums.

Could just buy a used/take-off stock/bottom metal. Plenty of guys getting rid of theirs (Riverofguns is a good search engine, but I usually see a lot turn up on eBay. Snipershide is also worth checking).

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Thanks Form,

I can easily pull the screw through the rear hole by hand, there is almost no interference. The rear hole is much larger that the front hole, and nearly the same diameter as the bolt head.

I will pm you about the spare factory bottom metal

 

[Formidilosus]

Thanks Form,

I can easily pull the screw through the rear hole by hand, there is almost no interference. The rear hole is much larger that the front hole, and nearly the same diameter as the bolt head.

I will pm you about the spare factory bottom metal

Yeah, that’s not right.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

After measuring the holes I am wondering if they molded in the wrong size washer. There's no evidence of cracking, so I don't really see how the screw tightening could have enlarged the hole

 

[Rob5589]

Same here, 45 in/lb for the plastic; I use 55 for the MT aluminum bottom metal.

 

[Macintosh]

My tikka owners manual specifies maximum 45inlb oin the action screws. Recently had folks recommend 65, but the 45inlb figure came from tikka.

 

[Formidilosus]

After measuring the holes I am wondering if they molded in the wrong size washer. There's no evidence of cracking, so I don't really see how the screw tightening could have enlarged the hole

It won’t. That’s not how they should be.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

Thanks Form,

I can easily pull the screw through the rear hole by hand, there is almost no interference. The rear hole is much larger that the front hole, and nearly the same diameter as the bolt head.

I will pm you about the spare factory bottom metalView attachment 455060View attachment 455061View attachment 455062View attachment 455064

This looks like an out of spec bottom plastic assembly here. No way could you pull your action screw through the hole like that. Warranty claim imo.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

Warranty is a good idea, thanks

 

[Lawnboi]

I wouldn’t waste your time or effort with beretta.

When I get home tomorrow I’ll check if I have one, if I do you can have it.

 

[ResearchinStuff]

I appreciate all the help offers, I think Form has a bottom metal heading my way.

I have heard beretta USA customer service is a treat to deal with, I guess that's contributed to the tikka cottage industry growth.

 

[thinhorn_AK]

I probably have a plastic bottom “metal” sitting around too that I’d be happy to send out if the one you lined up falls through.

 

[wyosam]

PM me an address and I’ll drop a factory bottom metal in the mail tomorrow if you haven’t already found a solution.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Greg1953]

Your not the first that's pulled that screw too tight and popped the head through the plastic.
There's been multiple post in different forums over the years of people doing the same thing.
Here's the factory specs.