Tikka T3X

You ok? You seem to be very bent out of shape on this.
I’m not bent out of shape at all, I’m just calling you out for posting things that are patently false.

You are clearly posting about things you don’t know about in multiple threads. I get it, when you get called out on spreading BS the default is to turn it back on the other person but it dosent change the fact that what you are saying is 100% verifiably false.

Not only can you cut a fluted tikka barrels, it is no more difficult than cutting a non fluted one. Karl kampfeld who has a good reputation here on RS has done tons for rokslide members here, including myself….multiple times.
 
I’m not bent out of shape at all, I’m just calling you out for posting things that are patently false.

You are clearly posting about things you don’t know about in multiple threads. I get it, when you get called out on spreading BS the default is to turn it back on the other person but it dosent change the fact that what you are saying is 100% verifiably false.

Not only can you cut a fluted tikka barrels, it is no more difficult than cutting a non fluted one. Karl kampfeld who has a good reputation here on RS has done tons for rokslide members here, including myself….multiple times.
Your reply in the other thread was mostly reasonable, this one is not.
 
I’m not bent out of shape at all, I’m just calling you out for posting things that are patently false.

You are clearly posting about things you don’t know about in multiple threads. I get it, when you get called out on spreading BS the default is to turn it back on the other person but it dosent change the fact that what you are saying is 100% verifiably false.

Not only can you cut a fluted tikka barrels, it is no more difficult than cutting a non fluted one. Karl kampfeld who has a good reputation here on RS has done tons for rokslide members here, including myself….multiple times.
In case you didnt see the other thread, I used a little deductive reasoning: ive never seen any fluting all the way to the muzzle, IME its always stopped at least an inch short. Therefore there must be a reason for that, therefore fluted barrels shouldnt be cut.

Its a reasonable assumption. If im wrong, im wrong. Not the first time, wont be the last(ask my wife) I would also note that CAN and SHOULD are not the same. Anything CAN be done. You and others have had it done, it seems there are no problems so it sounds like SHOULD also applies.

I did find a 12 year old thread referencing a 24 year old article from Jerry Stiller where he is quoted as saying the last 2 inches should not be fluted to maintain bore geometry where it matters most. I think that also assumes the fluting is happening after the finished bore is there. Perhaps things have changed in a quarter century.
 
A bit of nonsense in here.

The super varmint is the heaviest barrel rifle that Sako/Tikka offers D22. They shoot fantastic. The extra weight makes them more shootable.

The CTRs use the D20 profile. Heavy and they shoot well.

The roughtechs use the D18 profile which is their “medium weight” contour. They also shoot fantastic and allow for 5/8 threading without a shoulder added.

The standard lites are D16 profile with the Superlite adding flutes to the same barrel profile. They shoot fantastic but do come with a “shootability” degradation due to being lighter weight. You can thread them 1/2” but if you want 5/8” you’ll need to add a shoulder. YES, cutting and threading fluted barrels is perfectly functional.

A shorter barrel D16 profile with a suppressor balances very well and is very shootable.

The D18 unsuppressed in 22” and shorter balances well and is very shootable, any longer and its nose heavy. If cutting and suppressing with D18 I’d go 18” maximum preferably 16”.

The D20 and 22s are hogs but they SHOOT!
 
I'm still hoping for aftermarket barrel options that match the 2025 "D16 with bell end" profile Tikka sells.
 
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