Tikka T3x Lite not shooting well

[Dos Perros]

When you run a patch down the barrel does it seem consistent as you push?

I had a Sako barrel that was tight on both ends but loose in the middle. To my knowledge, they hammer forge their barrels around a mandrel. I'm not familiar with the process or potential failure modes, but that rifle didn't shoot very well at all, despite a dozen bullet power primer combos, and Beretta warrantied it.

 

[Harvey_NW]

The only Tikka I've had give me fits with erratic groups was from the recoil lug, the only weak point on them IMO. Take it apart, degrease action screws, bedding area, bottom of action, etc. and reassemble. When you do make sure the lug is in the slot and action isn't rocking on the lug as stated, run the action screws in until barely snug, and drop the butt on a hard surface a couple times to seat it, then torque. I torque mine to 40 in/lb with factory bottom plastic and have never had an issue.

 

[LikeAsNotNeverWillBe]

What caliber is your buddies rifle? Is it also a 6.5 or? I have a ctr and a lite, and the lite is noticeably harder to shoot well simply because its lighter. Add additional recoil and that becomes an additional issue.
That said, they dont all shoot. I had a t3x purchased new that either didnt shoot as well as my others or was incredibly finicky. Traded it on a different tikka (identical) and it shot groups half the size. Not the likeliest problem but it COULD just be a friday afternoon gun.

It's also a 6.5 CM. I'm starting to lean toward thinking that it's just a harder gun to shoot. It's easy to believe that I'm adding .75 MOA of error to a lightweight gun.

I talked to my buddy and he's going to buy a variety of ammo types and we'll keep messing with the action screws, but his main goal will just be getting better at shooting it.

As for me, I'm going to keep enjoying my easy to shoot (and heavy) CTR.

 

[redneckbmxer24]

It's also a 6.5 CM. I'm starting to lean toward thinking that it's just a harder gun to shoot. It's easy to believe that I'm adding .75 MOA of error to a lightweight gun.

I talked to my buddy and he's going to buy a variety of ammo types and we'll keep messing with the action screws, but his main goal will just be getting better at shooting it.

As for me, I'm going to keep enjoying my easy to shoot (and heavy) CTR.

Try some of the S&B 140gr FMJ. I know that doesn't sound like an accurate load but in the three 6.5CM barrels I've shot it in it has been the most accurate in all of them at 100 yards. I went to the range yesterday to get some rounds on my new Proof barrel and again it was the most accurate ammo tested. 5 shot groups into ragged holes in the .2-.3's. FGMM 130gr Berger was also accurate at about 1/2MOA which has also shot well in about a dozen 6.5CM's for me. I also tested Winchester deer season XP 125gr for the first time and it was right around 1/2 too. I've heard a lot of people say that it's been accurate for them as well.

The S&B is cheap AF though so it's a good option to get some rounds on the barrel and trigger time. The Winchester and FGMM are both available at walmart but the FGMM is about $15/box more there than a lot of places online.

I would just torque the actions screws to 45in lbs like recommended and take that variable out.

Also try running a few wet patches and dry and then a patch of denatured alcohol when changing ammo types. I've had a lot of ammo that didn't like to shoot in the previous' schmegma so I just do it now when moving to a different ammo. The patch of alcohol neutralizes any solvent residue and will eliminate the clean bore shot and need for foulers.

 

[yycyak]

I've got a thread somewhere showing what I did to "Prep" my two tikkas. From memory:

-- Dremel/sand out the two high spots in the barrel channel.
-- Dremel/sand out the barrel channel in general (make it wider.)
-- Make sure the recoil lug-to-action fit is good to go.
-- 65 in/lbs torque on the stock.

Just to eliminate any room for error, personally I'd ditch the bipod. Test the rifle naked and see how it does.

(Note: I didn't think up the above stuff. It's been shamelessly ripped off from shooters who know what the are doing.)

 

[Eaton Hill]

I’m learning as I go, and the reason for jumping into this forum after years of watching. People here are normal and help you figure things out.
Now for me, about 15 years into shooting rifles with highly variable frequency, I noticed this past weekend that when I rest my swivel stud on the bag, my group is wider. It’s a factory bar mkiii and not a renowned competition rifle by any means, but it made me wonder if there was a pressure point hitting the barrel which opened up my mind to the rest of the crazy stuff that affects everything.

 

[Gila]

I’m learning as I go, and the reason for jumping into this forum after years of watching. People here are normal and help you figure things out.
Now for me, about 15 years into shooting rifles with highly variable frequency, I noticed this past weekend that when I rest my swivel stud on the bag, my group is wider. It’s a factory bar mkiii and not a renowned competition rifle by any means, but it made me wonder if there was a pressure point hitting the barrel which opened up my mind to the rest of the crazy stuff that affects everything.

The rifle should easily move back and free recoil into the shoulder. Duct tape over the swivel stud maybe? I put the sling on sometimes so there isn’t a bump to keep the rifle from moving back.

 

[SDHNTR]

If I read this right, you are expecting a different rifle (although the same manufacturer, which means nothing) to shoot the same ammo as well as it does in your rifle? That’s expecting way too much. All rifles have their own individual preferences. There’s probably nothing wrong with it. It just doesn’t love that ammo. Try something else.

 

[Wacko]

Having multiple tikkas and having had "issues" with all of them I might chime in. All of them shoot quite well now. Here are the things I have found to "work" for me....

1) Float the barrel. They are not fully floated out of the box. I float mine "like I mean it"....

2) Degrease and mount everything with loctite. Torque the action screws to 65 inch pounds - yes 65

3) Expect them to shoot just ok for the first 100 rounds....then they start to tighten up - especially around the 200 round count. You might be able speed this process up if you use JB bore paste or something - I just shoot.

4) Don't clean unless there is a problem. I clean the bolt head out and spin a patch in the chamber - that's it. Enough to keep feed function. Unless accuracy falls off a cliff I don't "clean".

5) Be realistic with them. - most factory tikka lites will do 1.5 to 2 moa for 10-20 round groups. Zero accordingly, shot distances accordingly....

6) Use a scope that has tested out to actually work and hold zero......

That's it....I love 'em after figuring out the "recipe".......

 

[Wacko]

Here is a hitch in my giddy up.....

So I am planning on going with the lightest recoiling set up I can make from what I have this year. I decided on the tikka t3x 243 win and put it in a Bravo stock. SWFA. Shooting some 90 grain ELD-X's.

@Formidilosus has stated a 243 in a bravo is about as good as it gets for shoot-ability.

Well I had to take the 308 out of the bravo and put in the 243. I reinstalled the factory stock on the 308. In doing so I normally torque it to 65 inch pounds. Well this time the front screw compressed the metal washer in the bottom plate. That allowed the screw to over penetrate and bind the bolt head.

I had a small, thin washer in my parts. I put that under the bottom plate and I was able to torque it to 65 inch pounds. Function check seems good.

I am going to source a few more washers like that. I can't afford Bravo's for all my Tikkas right now.....