Tikka T3X Failure to Fire

[Dan Carey]

OK, lets say its not the bolt which would rule out the firing assembly. Did both of your bolts have aftermarket bolt handles? There is not much left to look at with this problem.

 

[Rugger7622]

OK, lets say its not the bolt which would rule out the firing assembly. Did both of your bolts have aftermarket bolt handles? There is not much left to look at with this problem.

I ran it without the after market knob today.

 

[Rugger7622]

But you said you are/were getting FTF with factory ammo as well so were you shootings factory ammo with LC cases?

Yes, with factory as well. I'm wondering if the factory was knob raised caused and the reloading is LC once fired, processed primer pocket issues? I'm going to bump the factory brass back and load it like I normally do and go shoot 20 of these along side 20 factory loads

 

[Rugger7622]

I don't have another stock this barrel will fit in, but I do have a factory stock that I might hog out this weekend and swap it as well. I'm running out of options to try.

 

[Dan Carey]

Tikka has a somewhat unconventional bolt throw 180 degree opposed locking lugs with a 70 degree bolt lift, which is normally a 90 degree lift. So how can that work. The bolt has to be fully closed for the cocking piece to move forward unobstructed. There might be a problem with that.

You don't have actually shoot a round, you can just use a primed case.

 

[Rugger7622]

Ok, so I can resize 20, prime them and see if they go off, correct? That process makes sense, no need to burn a bullet or go through the process of loading.

 

[Rugger7622]

What do you guys think about the theory that the LC "processed" brass that I got has a primer pocket issue with some and the primer isn't getting seated deep enough and the pin strike is pushing it further into the pocket but not enough back pressure force to ignite the primer? The LC brass was swaged, but maybe not enough?? Just tossing out guesses now.

I guess we will see, when I run the factory brass reloaded.

 

[Dan Carey]

The processed brass is cleaned, resized, primer pocket swaged. The swaging process only affects the very top of the pocket, so if you can get a primer started its good. The primer is seated correctly when it is at the same plane as the top of the head, if you stand it up on a flat surface it will not move side to side. For now just use brass that you have resized yourself. Again its the speed of the firing pin that ignites the primer. Years ago when we were using Remington actions we replaced the firing spring with a stiffer one to improve lock time, we found that it also decreased SD of the loads.

 

[mtnbound]

Yes, with factory as well. I'm wondering if the factory was knob raised caused and the reloading is LC once fired, processed primer pocket issues? I'm going to bump the factory brass back and load it like I normally do and go shoot 20 of these along side 20 factory loads

I mentioned this earlier, but keep some down pressure on your bolt knob when you fire the next test batch. I use my index finger on the bolt and my middle finger to work the trigger.

 

[Rugger7622]

The processed brass is cleaned, resized, primer pocket swaged. The swaging process only affects the very top of the pocket, so if you can get a primer started its good. The primer is seated correctly when it is at the same plane as the top of the head, if you stand it up on a flat surface it will not move side to side. For now just use brass that you have resized yourself. Again its the speed of the firing pin that ignites the primer. Years ago when we were using Remington actions we replaced the firing spring with a stiffer one to improve lock time, we found that it also decreased SD of the loads.

Ok, I've been using the brass I've resized or are you talking about my Hornady factory brass that I'm going to resize and try? So if I'm confusing!!!!

 

[Rugger7622]

I mentioned this earlier, but keep some down pressure on your bolt knob when you fire the next test batch. I use my index finger on the bolt and my middle finger to work the trigger.

Ok, I can try that as well. My last two range trips I've double checked the bolt being down before each shot, but I've not left my finger on the bolt. I haven't had to do that with my 2 other Tikka's, is there a solution to that or is it common with the 223?

 

[Dan Carey]

Use any brass that's been fired in that chamber. Pressure on the bolt handle will tell you that the bolt is closed all the way when you fire a round, try it.

 

[mtnbound]

Ok, I can try that as well. My last two range trips I've double checked the bolt being down before each shot, but I've not left my finger on the bolt. I haven't had to do that with my 2 other Tikka's, is there a solution to that or is it common with the 223?

Neither; it's just a method to ensure the bolt stays in the fully locked position. Agree with only using the brass that fired previously on the first strike.