Tikka T3X Failure to Fire

If I’m following correctly; you’re getting primer strikes but not ignition on both reloads and factory ammo every 15 rounds or so. And if you are to believe the person who sold it to you this is a new problem. If all of that is correct my first thought's would be something in the bolt (firing pin spring, bolt lift, etc). I’d probably also check headspace only because it’s easy. But id’ bet that isn’t it.
 
I quit messing with barrel nuts because theyre a pain if you want to swap IMO. I red locktite them and spin it on like a shouldered barrel when I get it right. That's about the best you can do.

A go gauge with two layers of scotch tape on the bottom works great as a no-go gauge FYI.

Do you have a comparator to measure a fired round compared to an unfired round?
 
Had this same issue on a savage recently after I swapped barrels. Had to screw the barrel in a bit until bolt closed with just a slight resistance on go gauge if I remember correctly. Was also a .223AI shooting non FF brass. No ftf for over 100 round since. At first 6 in every 10 were ftf. PS: double check after tightening barrel nut it can change some while torquing. Took me a few tries to get it where I wanted
 
Yes, I’m getting FTF on 1/15 or so rounds, both factory and my loads. 500 rounds on the gun, shoots like a dream with 75 ELDM’s and 77 TMK’s. Brass is growing 2.5 thou from reloads to fired - seems normal to me. I’m through 100 pieces of pre-prepped LC brass. I’ll resize them all, load up another 50 and try it again.

Would pictures of the bolt broken down help? I’ll work on getting a set of gauges as well
 
Remove your firing pin and check headspace. The lower-left primer on the shell in your first pic worries me. Looks like you may have a ton of headspace, or lots of firing pin clearance inside the bolt.
 
Keep in mind that primer had been hit 3 times with the firing pin. The primer’s that fire look nothing like that beat up mess! Seems like everything is pointing to go, no go gauges as the next step in problem solving. Anyone recommend a set?
 
I've ordered Forster Go/No Go and a field gauge. Do I need to strip the bolt all the way down or pull the firing pin? Video's I've watched show ejector spring removal, etc.
 
Not with
I've ordered Forster Go/No Go and a field gauge. Do I need to strip the bolt all the way down or pull the firing pin? Video's I've watched show ejector spring removal, etc.
Not with both gauges. You do if you’re using the tape method mentioned earlier.
 
I've ordered Forster Go/No Go and a field gauge. Do I need to strip the bolt all the way down or pull the firing pin? Video's I've watched show ejector spring removal, etc.
You can save some money. No need for the field gauge.
 
The good news is, once you correct the problem your groups will shrink. If headspace is ok I’d strip the bolt and clean any debris out and lightly lubricate it. Look for a cracked spring, bent firing pin, bent cocking piece and spray it out over clean paper towels to see if a primer was punched before you had the gun and left a small metal disk in the bolt. If the gun is over 10 years old I’d replace the firing pin spring. Since you’re having problems I’d probably replace the spring anyway so you know that’s not it. Look for weird metal to metal rub marks and make sure the trigger retracts from the cocking piece and isn’t dragging. If decocking a bare bolt isn’t something your comfortable with, firing pin stick out is easy enough to estimate with a cleaning rod down the muzzle and flat faced brass jag - do not dry fire onto the cleaning rod, but let the cocking piece down slowly and compare the stick out. I have no idea what is common with Tikka but it’s probably more than .050” and less than .075”. If you feel more comfortable with an actual number, add a paper binding clip to the cleaning rod when cocked, uncock it and use feeler gauges to measure the gap between muzzle and clip.
 
Do I need to remove the firing pin or can I simply slide the gauge into the chamber and close the bolt.
No need to remove the firing pin. Just close it like you would with a round in the chamber. Be careful when removing the gauge. A fall on a hard surface can ruin it.
 
No need to remove the firing pin. Just close it like you would with a round in the chamber. Be careful when removing the gauge. A fall on a hard surface can ruin it.
Thanks, my gauges should be here this weekend. I'll also try to measure the firing pin and send some pictures of the bolt, just in case someone sees something I'm missing.
 
Back
Top