Tikka stock modification

[Eduardo94]

Hi all,

First time poster, long time reader. I've been following along on the Rokstok development and unfortunately, being in Australia were not able to get our hands on these. Recent import law changes has made importing anything firearm related pretty difficult.

I was looking to gain some of the benefits of the Rokstok with the standard Tikka stock to improve recoil management and spotting impacts. I grabbed a 2nd hand T3 stock to play around with before cutting into my T3X stock. 2nd hand T3X stocks are hard to come by here and new ones are around $500.

Main goals were recoil pad above bore and negative comb, reducing the toe angle was a side benefit. The red line indicates the bore centreline.





I found I wasn't able to get the recoil pad above bore line without impacting the angle of the recoil pad but figured this was better than nothing.

Next step is to cut and reattach the buttstock.

 

[Eduardo94]

I cut through the stock with a 13mm gap at the top to create the angle I was looking for. A bit of sanding and shaping and it started coming together.
I would have liked to design and build a folding mechanism for it but these are also illegal here.

I used some ally tube & flat bar to connect the two along with JB Weld plastic bonder. Time will tell if this is strong enough but it doesn't flex anymore than the factory stock.



There is another piece of ally tube glued into the buttstock to allow it to all get pieced together. I then filled the gap with some Sika 227. At some point it'll get a paint job to hide the join a bit better.

 

[Eduardo94]

All came together pretty well, recoil pad ended up higher than I expected once the spacers were added to correct the LOP. Comparison to a standard T3X stock with cheek riser


And a comparison between factory and the modified version.

Height above bore has gone from -30mm to +12mm
Comb angle from 2° to 8°
Toe angle from 18° to 6°



I still need to get out and shoot it to see if there has been an improvement, potentially also need higher rings to get a better cheek weld. Already got a better idea on joining the two parts when I do the same on the T3X stock.

Hope this helps anyone looking to make a similar modification.