Tikka slam fire PSA

[Sandstrom]

The other day I was out in the shop messing around and decided to pick up one of my Tikka's and practice manipulating the bolt rapidly. After a time or two something didn’t feel correct. It was releasing the firing pin on closing. Luckily it was on an empty chamber.

After a close inspection and tear down, I found the problem to be the Allen screw holding the trigger assembly to the action was loose. Upon further examination, it took roughly 1/4 of a turn from tight to allow enough slop in the trigger assembly for the seer to release the firing pin. I also noticed this screw does not have any loctite applied from the factory (checked two other Tikkas).

Going forward every one will be loctited!

Not sure why it was loose, could have shot loose or the smith who shortened the barrel a couple hundred of rounds ago my have not torqued it properly. Ultimately it is my gun and my fault for not checking everything. I do know that the sinking feeling in my stomach was terrible, especially knowing that my wife and father just used the gun on hunts. Fortunately nothing bad happened, but from now on trigger housing screws will be checked, torqued, and loctited!

Ryan

 

[Formidilosus]

The other day I was out in the shop messing around and decided to pick up one of my Tikka's and practice manipulating the bolt rapidly. After a time or two something didn’t feel correct. It was releasing the firing pin on closing. Luckily it was on an empty chamber.

After a close inspection and tear down, I found the problem to be the Allen screw holding the trigger assembly to the action was loose. Upon further examination, it took roughly 1/4 of a turn from tight to allow enough slop in the trigger assembly for the seer to release the firing pin. I also noticed this screw does not have any loctite applied from the factory (checked two other Tikkas).

Going forward every one will be loctited!

Not sure why it was loose, could have shot loose or the smith who shortened the barrel a couple hundred of rounds ago my have not torqued it properly. Ultimately it is my gun and my fault for not checking everything. I do know that the sinking feeling in my stomach was terrible, especially knowing that my wife and father just used the gun on hunts. Fortunately nothing bad happened, but from now on trigger housing screws will be checked, torqued, and loctited!

Ryan

This is relatively common when people replace the trigger spring with a lighter one. I have seen 3-4 in the last year, all had replaced triggers springs and weren’t thread locked. From the factory if it is never taken off, it isn’t loosening up.

So too, lighter trigger springs “can” make the rifle not truly drop safe. I have only seen one or two in 15 years and a lot of Tikka’s, however the Scandinavian and European companies aren’t like US companies- they’re rifles and designs are tested for function and safety, and they want the best feeling triggers possible. They have no problem have a factory adjustable trigger below 1lb IF safe and reliable.

Short answer- leave factory Tikka, Sako, Sauer, Blaser, etc trihhers alone. Adjust to minimum allowed by the factory.

 

[Wyo_hntr]

Short answer- leave factory Tikka, Sako, Sauer, Blaser, etc trihhers alone. Adjust to minimum allowed by the factory.

I don't understand why people feel they need an Uber light trigger.

 

[ThatDUDE]

Same thing happened to me when I had my Tikka Cerakoted. Mine actually fired on a live round when I first closed my bolt after getting it Cerakoted. When I tore it apart the trigger housing was completely loose.

Now I disassemble my guns myself before I get it Cerakoted or the barrel shortened. That way I know the trigger housing got torqued down and lock tited because I am the one who reassembled it.

 

[atmat]

The other day I was out in the shop messing around and decided to pick up one of my Tikka's and practice manipulating the bolt rapidly. After a time or two something didn’t feel correct. It was releasing the firing pin on closing. Luckily it was on an empty chamber.

After a close inspection and tear down, I found the problem to be the Allen screw holding the trigger assembly to the action was loose. Upon further examination, it took roughly 1/4 of a turn from tight to allow enough slop in the trigger assembly for the seer to release the firing pin. I also noticed this screw does not have any loctite applied from the factory (checked two other Tikkas).

Going forward every one will be loctited!

Not sure why it was loose, could have shot loose or the smith who shortened the barrel a couple hundred of rounds ago my have not torqued it properly. Ultimately it is my gun and my fault for not checking everything. I do know that the sinking feeling in my stomach was terrible, especially knowing that my wife and father just used the gun on hunts. Fortunately nothing bad happened, but from now on trigger housing screws will be checked, torqued, and loctited!

Ryan

Do you have an aftermarket spring? Or did the assembly just come off for barrel shortening?

 

[HuntHarder]

I don't understand why people feel they need an Uber light trigger.

We don't understand why you feel you don't

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

All the Sakos I’ve taken apart have a dab of loktite of some kind on that screw. Tikkas do not. I’ve added a dab to all of mine with factory triggers springs and aftermarket springs. Zero issues after that.

I have moved away from aftermarket springs as of about 6 months ago. Adjust the factory trigger down to its bottom limit and go shoot.

 

[Sandstrom]

Do you have an aftermarket spring? Or did the assembly just come off for barrel shortening?

It has a factory spring, I did set it to the lightest it would go. I believe it is 2.75 lbs pull weight.

I am assuming that the whole trigger assembly came off when it got shortened at the gunsmith.

The screw that came loose was the one holding the entire trigger housing to the action.

 

[Lawnboi]

That bolt can handle some torque, 55 inch pounds and it won’t move. I do check them when I break down rifles though. I’d bet the smith didn’t torque it.

 

[atmat]

It has a factory spring, I did set it to the lightest it would go. I believe it is 2.75 lbs pull weight.

I am assuming that the whole trigger assembly came off when it got shortened at the gunsmith.

The screw that came loose was the one holding the entire trigger housing to the action.
View attachment 702793

As others have said, definitely Loctite. Those are on tight from factory.

I had a hard time tightening it really well without twisting the magazine spring too much.

 

[diverc18]

Does anyone know the actual torque spec for this bolt or is 55 in pounds good as suggested above? Just checked mine and it was a little loose as well. Never had a slam fire though.

 

[Bfish22]

I’ve found the trigger assembly bolt loose after receiving an action back after rebarreling. I noticed that by pushing the safety too far forward, it would make the trigger fire. Took the stock off and noticed the screw loose. I check it every time i have the stock off now, but never had it loosen up on its own.

 

[mxgsfmdpx]

It has a factory spring, I did set it to the lightest it would go. I believe it is 2.75 lbs pull weight.

I am assuming that the whole trigger assembly came off when it got shortened at the gunsmith.

The screw that came loose was the one holding the entire trigger housing to the action.
View attachment 702793

That’s the screw I was referring to in my post. The torque on it on my Sakos, all metal component rifles, have all been higher than the multiple tikkas I’ve taken apart. They also lack loctite on the tikkas.

I add loctite and torque to match Sako 75/85 specs found from using my torque wrench (65 inch lbs).

 

[JollyRoger]

I double check mine from time to time... so far so good. I mostly leave them alone except for backing that trigger weight screw as much as possible as others have said.

My only non factory trigger is the KRG trigger group… its been fantastic and so far has passed all the function and drop testing

 

[Bluumoon]

Loose screw caused this to happen on Sunday x2 in front of a group. Only thread on that gun that hadn’t been degreased and loctited by me.

Barrel was in a safe direction, and good lesson, but not cool at all.

 

[NSI]

My only ND ever was because of that screw. Pushing safety forward caused to fire. Was hand-loose when I inspected. Obviously a bad situation. I had tightened with gusto after replacing spring, but clearly that was not enough. Surprised this isn't talked about more.

Now, I loctite and torque to 55inlb as part of my standard intake process for new Tikkas.

-J

 

[DangerRanger]

I should go back and loctite mine that was removed for shipping. thanks oP

 

[Jmanley13]

The other day I was out in the shop messing around and decided to pick up one of my Tikka's and practice manipulating the bolt rapidly. After a time or two something didn’t feel correct. It was releasing the firing pin on closing. Luckily it was on an empty chamber.

After a close inspection and tear down, I found the problem to be the Allen screw holding the trigger assembly to the action was loose. Upon further examination, it took roughly 1/4 of a turn from tight to allow enough slop in the trigger assembly for the seer to release the firing pin. I also noticed this screw does not have any loctite applied from the factory (checked two other Tikkas).

Going forward every one will be loctited!

Not sure why it was loose, could have shot loose or the smith who shortened the barrel a couple hundred of rounds ago my have not torqued it properly. Ultimately it is my gun and my fault for not checking everything. I do know that the sinking feeling in my stomach was terrible, especially knowing that my wife and father just used the gun on hunts. Fortunately nothing bad happened, but from now on trigger housing screws will be checked, torqued, and loctited!

Ryan

Good share, thank you for the reminders

 

[Vern400]

It's a pretty scary thing. I jumped up on my gooseneck trailer to lean over the gooseneck and shoot a coyote. I closed the bolt with my right palm and the round went off. I missed the trailer frame by about 3 in and just hit dirt.

I had adjusted the trigger to 3 lb according to the instructions. I repeatedly slammed the bolt shut, beat the gun butt on a bench and everything.

After that accidental discharge I ordered a new trigger assembly and kept the factory setting. And I beat the crap out of that one even more vigorously... No problems since on THAT gun.

My brother had his Weatherby 22 that did it.
I had a Remington 1100 that emptied itself when I hit the bolt release (bent firing pin stuck out)
I had a Remington 700 discharge with the factory trigger. Known defect for "B" serial nos.
I had a 15-second hang fire with a muzzleloader.
I've seen an SKS fire on bolt close (no firing pin retract spring by design)
At this point, I don't fully trust any of them.

You guys are all on the right channel using loctite and extreme diligence.

 

[Dos Perros]

Can someone please link to the precise Loctite product you would recommend for a screw like this? Going to proactively apply to all my Tikka's.