Tikka Pre-Fit Proof Barrel worth the $$$?

[kimberyote]

I had a T3X LITE in 270 win. It kicked like a Missouri Mule. The main problem is the factory stock is made for iron sights. I rebarreld mine and put it in a manners stock. I couldn't be happier. I too am thinking along the same line tho. I had the barrel reamed for a 1-13 twist @ 28" for 55 bal tips in a 6-284. I get 4320 fps. I would like a 1-8 tho for windy days for the 87 vmax for destroying coyotes at distance. Good luck with whichever route you go.

 

[HungryNomad]

I had a T3X LITE in 270 win. It kicked like a Missouri Mule. The main problem is the factory stock is made for iron sights. I rebarreld mine and put it in a manners stock. I couldn't be happier. I too am thinking along the same line tho. I had the barrel reamed for a 1-13 twist @ 28" for 55 bal tips in a 6-284. I get 4320 fps. I would like a 1-8 tho for windy days for the 87 vmax for destroying coyotes at distance. Good luck with whichever route you go.

How do you mean the factory stock is made for iron sights?


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[kimberyote]

How do you mean the factory stock is made for iron sights?


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The top of the comb of the stock is slanted downward instead of straight back, like a Kimber, manners stock does. The lower the height of the top of the comb, the more felt recoil is the result. I have shot hot loads in a 300 wsm Kimber that was very manageable. Pick up and put to your cheek a Kimber rifle. As the rifle sits into your shoulder, the barrel points up at about 20-30 degrees higher than other rifle stocks do. This design was first implemented by ultra light arms. The system works.

 

[Bubblehide]

I have a Tikka T3 stainless 300WSM, no brake. I picked it up in 07. If I do my part it shoots clover leafs at 100, sub 1/2 moa. But I did stock work. 1" at 100 yards is a moa gun, and generally considered very acceptable. But I would not be happy with that as I commonly reach out to take animals.

If I were you, I would bed and float it, and then see how it shoots; and go from there; if you have not already done it.

I have a lot of rounds down the tube of my Tikka over the years since 07. So naturally I have thought about rebarreling it when accuracy starts to drop off. So I picked up a new unshot barrel here on Rokslide for 75 dollars plus the 3%. You might think about that option, unless you really want the cool factor of a carbon wrap barrel (I don't blame you).

 

[HungryNomad]

The top of the comb of the stock is slanted downward instead of straight back, like a Kimber, manners stock does. The lower the height of the top of the comb, the more felt recoil is the result. I have shot hot loads in a 300 wsm Kimber that was very manageable. Pick up and put to your cheek a Kimber rifle. As the rifle sits into your shoulder, the barrel points up at about 20-30 degrees higher than other rifle stocks do. This design was first implemented by ultra light arms. The system works.

Good info. I just recently shot a mtn ascent in .300wsm. Granted, it has a brake on it but I was expecting more recoil than it gave. I really liked that rifle, except for the feeding.


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[HungryNomad]

I have a Tikka T3 stainless 300WSM, no brake. I picked it up in 07. If I do my part it shoots clover leafs at 100, sub 1/2 moa. But I did stock work. 1" at 100 yards is a moa gun, and generally considered very acceptable. But I would not be happy with that as I commonly reach out to take animals.

If I were you, I would bed and float it, and then see how it shoots; and go from there; if you have not already done it.

I have a lot of rounds down the tube of my Tikka over the years since 07. So naturally I have thought about rebarreling it when accuracy starts to drop off. So I picked up a new unshot barrel here on Rokslide for 75 dollars plus the 3%. You might think about that option, unless you really want the cool factor of a carbon wrap barrel (I don't blame you).

I need to float it. Bedding is easy enough with the factory stocks? I haven’t heard of many people bedding them. By that I mean, I haven’t seen it on youtube.
I think I’m starting to shy away from the cool factor of the carbon barrel. I’m going to tinker with some simple stuff, action torque, maybe different rings and scope, and see what happens. If I end up deciding I want a different twist rate I’ll look into rebarreling.

 

[Bubblehide]

Floating is floating, watch a youtube vid and apply the principles to your stock

 

[kimberyote]

The advantage of getting a custom barrel is that a person can have the lead made specially for the one bullet that you chose. That results in outstanding performance. Tikka barrels are accurate, but very slow. Frank on snipershide has a lot of good podcasts & videos about Tikka's. Lots of great info.

 

[HungryNomad]

The advantage of getting a custom barrel is that a person can have the lead made specially for the one bullet that you chose. That results in outstanding performance. Tikka barrels are accurate, but very slow. Frank on snipershide has a lot of good podcasts & videos about Tikka's. Lots of great info.

Yeah, I think I’ll do it eventually but for now I’m going to do what I can with the rifle to see what I can get for improvements. It’s shooting 180 grain Barnes TSX (federal premium factory) pretty well. I think I can tweak it to get a little more and then I’ll save for a barre upgrade and maybe an aftermarket stock, depending on the barrel.


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[Bubblehide]

Yeah, I think I’ll do it eventually but for now I’m going to do what I can with the rifle to see what I can get for improvements. It’s shooting 180 grain Barnes TSX (federal premium factory) pretty well. I think I can tweak it to get a little more and then I’ll save for a barre upgrade and maybe an aftermarket stock, depending on the barrel.


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Generally speaking, a 180 grain bullet is at the top end of what the Tikka 1/11 twist will stabilize. Some guys are able to go a bit heavier, some need to go lighter. You might think about trying a lighter bullet, and see if you can tighten MOA accuracy. That should provide some very useful information if it does tighten up. I have been shooting E-Tips, and I could not be happier with their accuracy and end result performance on the animals I have taken (those that know me can tell you that number is awfully high).

 

[HungryNomad]

Generally speaking, a 180 grain bullet is at the top end of what the Tikka 1/11 twist will stabilize. Some guys are able to go a bit heavier, some need to go lighter. You might think about trying a lighter bullet, and see if you can tighten MOA accuracy. That should provide some very useful information if it does tighten up. I have been shooting E-Tips, and I could not be happier with their accuracy and end result performance on the animals I have taken (those that know me can tell you that number is awfully high).

Yeah, I’m aware I’m pushing it as far as twist rate with that bullet. It has shot some lighter bullets from hornady and federal with slightly better accuracy, but not much. I’m talking 3 shot, slowly fired groups though. Ultimately, this quest for more accuracy is a lot about me satisfying my own curiosity and learning more along the way. From a practical hunting standpoint a lot of what I’m after is unnecessary but I enjoy the process and learning about cool ways to make improvements.


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[Lawnboi]

I think you might see more improvement with a new stock, if you want a new barrel while that happens I’d say go for it.

 

[Shane431]

In my experience Proof barrels are 100-200 FPS faster than Tikka factory barrels. Probably doesn’t matter to most but can make a difference.

 

[HungryNomad]

In my experience Proof barrels are 100-200 FPS faster than Tikka factory barrels. Probably doesn’t matter to most but can make a difference.

In the rare event I draw a bison tag up here in AK, it actually could. There’s a minimum energy requirement for bison draw hunts. But if that were the case, I’d probably just buy a .375 Ruger. Thanks for the info regardless!


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[longshot3631]

IMO you won’t see that much of an accuracy improvement. I own tikkas, proofs, can’t tell a difference other than proof looks cooler and costs more!

 

[JeffRaines]

Yeah, I’m aware I’m pushing it as far as twist rate with that bullet. It has shot some lighter bullets from hornady and federal with slightly better accuracy, but not much. I’m talking 3 shot, slowly fired groups though. Ultimately, this quest for more accuracy is a lot about me satisfying my own curiosity and learning more along the way. From a practical hunting standpoint a lot of what I’m after is unnecessary but I enjoy the process and learning about cool ways to make improvements.


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I have a buddy with a tikka in 300wm who’s stabilizing the 212eldx just fine at sea level. Factory barrel. He’s shot that load to over 1k with no issues. Berger recommends a minimum of 11 twist for their new 205s, as well as their other 200 grain offerings.

In short, you have to shoot them first. The stability calculator will get you in the ballpark and let you know what to expect as far as BC goes, but just because it spits out 1.49 doesn’t mean your bullets are gonna be flying sideways.

 

[VIII]

I’m only a year late to this party but wanted to weigh in. I also have a Tikka T3 in .300 WSM. The gun was gifted to me and holds sentimental value otherwise the following would not have happened - I chased acceptable accuracy for 10 years. I was about to give up last year when I gave it one last try with factory ammo. I ran Hornady’s Precision Hunter. I know the twist in a T3 is not made for a 200gr bullet but my rifle finally came to life. Best group I shot before trying the Precision Hunter was 1.1” at 100 yards. I can now clover leaf. That said I do have a Mesa Precision Altitude stock and trigger spring on it so it’s not bone stock, but otherwise I’ve done nothing to it.

To add to it, I have a CarbonSix barrel on another rifle (Rem 700 in 6.5cm) and while it’s shoots great, does not give me the orgasmic accuracy I was expecting. Looks cool af, but I have a factory Remington varmint barrel that does just as well.

So while I’m not saying don’t buy a Proof barrel, I’m encouraging you to try Hornady Precision Hunter. May save you quite a bit of money.

 

[ETtikka]

I only have 308 and smaller tikkas, just curious on how much the extra recoil and muzzle blast (with brake) effect accuracy on these lighter guns, I would also assume stock fitment is more important with the magnums, is that a fair assumption??

 

[UKA]

The original TIKKA barrels shoot perfectly, I had three TIKKAs in different calibers 308, 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5 PRC, they all shot from 0.25 to 0.5 MOA