Tikka Muzzle Brakes

I haven't shot one, however I was told that the MBM brakes (Muzzle brakes and more) have side ports like many do, but but are also slightly angled up to help control muzzle rise. Can't confirm this, but that would be nice shooting my lite tikka 7 mag.
 
I have a browning hawg on my tikka veil now and it’s a side baffle. You can get a couple different finishes.


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I have a roughtec in 308. I have shot it with and with out the factory brake attached. I have noticed little if any reduction in felt recoil. From looking at the factory brake, the first set of holes appear to aim the blast forward, while the other holes are straight out. Also, the diameter of the bore of the factory brake is very large compared to the bullet diameter. I question it’s efficiency. I do have a shrewd radial brake on another 30 cal that I would like to try on the roughtec at some point for a comparison.
Ryan
 
I have a Veil in 6.5 PRC and have only shot with the brake on so I cant comment to its efficiency but I also dont like a radial brake for the same reason as everyone else said. I just put an Area 419 Hellfire on it but havent shot with it yet. Maybe its the cartridge or maybe it was the brake but the gun has very little recoil.
 
General rule of thumb is the bigger the brake diameter, the more it reduces recoil. I've also seen studies that show once the brake is more than 40 thou over bullet diameter, you start seeing losses in efficiency. Mbm brakes are angled slightly up to help muzzle rise. Mbm brake will work a lot better than the factory tikka brake.
 
I took the radial break of my Browning XBolt and replaced with the Hawg, there was a noticable reduction in recoil, not huge but it was there. There was also less muzzle jump. This was on a Max Long range, heavy sporter barrel, 300 Win Mag shooting 220 grain ELDX's. Hope this helps.
 
My Tikka Veil is only a 6.5 creed so no need for the brake. I have read good things about the new Mountain Tactical brake for the larger calibers.
 
Bump. For 30-06 go mountain tactical rad? Ross? If I need mine to get threaded I should order the brake and send it with it to wherever I get it threaded? Or that's not needed if I get a self timing one. thinking sending it to LRI as that seems popular. I'm a complete kook as to how this all works
 
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self-timing may be a little heavier, out at the end of the muzzle you may feel it, or may not care. I have a self-timing brake on a tikka that I've been very happy with. It's super easy to install with just a wrench, no need to send it off to a smith for timing, comes off easy for cleaning, etc. Mine is a APA little bastard, but I believe their micro-bastard is specifically designed for sporter-weight barrels.
Re: the (very old) post above, I find brakes of all kinds horribly obnoxious to be around, but there is no denying they reduce felt recoil and muzzle flip and allow you a better opportunity to watch your impacts. Mine is on a relatively heavy barreled 6.5cm, so not at all a heavy-recoiling gun, but I would not at all hesitate to put one on a lighter-recoiling hunting gun--only reason I havent is that none of mine are threaded. To me a brake is more about being able to see whether and where you hit, and watch exactly where the animal disappears into the woods during your recoil, and then get a faster follow-up shot if needed, than it is about reducing felt recoil.
 
I haven't shot one, however I was told that the MBM brakes (Muzzle brakes and more) have side ports like many do, but but are also slightly angled up to help control muzzle rise. Can't confirm this, but that would be nice shooting my lite tikka 7 mag.

I finally got around to getting the MBM brake for my Tikka 7 mag. I know you mentioned "factory" but my local smith threaded my barrel and timed the brake. It works wonders on the felt recoil.

tikka 7mag.jpg

tikka 7mag brake.jpg
 
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