Tikka Factory Stock Optimization

[psschuldt]

I picked up a Tikka factory stock from Unknown. I am keen to see what I can do to optimize it.
Step 1: Aggressively freefloat the barrel. Credit to FF.EP17 - Done
Step 2: Flatten to the bottom of the stock parallel with the barrel. - More to follow below
Step 3: Make a butt pad.
Step 4: Make a detachable check riser. - I'll start with the ones available on MakerWorld and go from there.
Step 5: Add a QD cup for a rear sling mount.
Step 6: Make it a folder/detachable butt for easy packing.

 

[psschuldt]

Step 1.
I made a gauge by folding paper 4x, giving me a flexible gauge about 2.5mm thick.
I clamped my rifle upside down in a vice with a 3D printed protector and removed the stock,
I used a paint pen to mark the stock where it needed to be relieved.
I used a Dremel tool with a 115 carving bit
By applying a layer of pen and then carefully removing it, I gradually and evenly took the stock down.
Once the paper slid all the way back to the action, I reinstalled the barreled action and torqued the screws to 65 in-lbs.
Credit to Form for this step. Shoot2Hunt FF.EP.17, posted 20240607, details his procedure for trouble-free rifles.

 

[psschuldt]

Step 2:
Credit to the Rokstock. I am holding out for a folding version, and in the meantime, I want to see how much the factory stock can be optimized with basic tools and a 3D printer.

I put a 4ft line on a flat and level work surface.
I printed two barrel-holding clamps that held the rifle just off the surface and were aligned so the 4ft line was centered on the bore.
I marked where the bottom of the grip was, removed the rifle, and drew a second line parallel with the first. The measurement was 112mm
I put painters' tape on the stock butt and remounted the rifle. I leveled the stock by placing a torpedo level on the butpad screws.
I used the second line to mark up the butt.


The next step is to model a Jig to make the cut easy and repeatable.

 

[doverpack12]

I would just freehand that cut on a band saw. Hard part will be making sure you don’t have any side to side cant when complete. Some cardboard shim near toe and comb should keep you pretty flat, then touch up with a belt sander.

I turned a tikka compact stock into the weatherby Camilla style for my mom by cutting freehand then sanding and remounting the butt pad. She loves the rifle now, I hate shooting it.

 

[MEdude]

I know I don’t need to say “Following” to just watch, but wanted to let @psschuldt know that there are folks out here who are interested in this concept.
I’m eager to see your processes, and what you end up with.

 

[BasicUtahrd95]

I recently did something similar with mine, just didn’t cut into the stock at all. 3D printed a spacer to make LOP longer, change to negative comb, make the buttpad perpendicular to the bore, and raise the back of the comb over the bore. I printed a second one that screws in where the sling stud is supposed to go to adapt to a flat toe line then wrapped in vet tape.

 

[Brap01]

I like this idea a lot, looking forward to updates!

 

[doverpack12]

I recently did something similar with mine, just didn’t cut into the stock at all. 3D printed a spacer to make LOP longer, change to negative comb, make the buttpad perpendicular to the bore, and raise the back of the comb over the bore. I printed a second one that screws in where the sling stud is supposed to go to adapt to a negative comb then wrapped in vet tape.View attachment 1074297View attachment 1074298

You could sell a lot of those printed parts

 

[BasicUtahrd95]

You could sell a lot of those printed parts

Currently, I don't consider them finished products. The nylon-carbon fiber filament is very strong and looks nice, but is pretty abrasive so it doesn't feel great on your face. Vet wrap is pretty much a requirement. I would need to look for a filament that feels smoother, but that I still have confidence in durability wise. Also, I designed it to fit with a limbsaver grind-to-fit recoil pad, not the stock tikka pads. These aren't "screw on and shoot" like I would want a finished product to be. If a few people are interested, I could adapt the design to the Tikka pad and send them out.