Tikka Bottom Metal Bent

[FaaSamoa]

Hey guys,
So I have a t3x 223 that after reading here, I retorqued (to 65) with paint pen my action screws. I had some bad groups and went thru the diagnosis progress and saw my bottom “metal” (factory) was a little bent and my rest action screw had pushed the bottom metal into the rifle vs sitting flush.

I then retorqued it to 55 but still had some bend .

Would this cause accuracy issues? It is fully free floated and scope has been mounted properly (SWFA 3-15) .

Side note: I shot pmc 55g before doin the retorque and free float at 100 for 10 round 1.2-1.4 moa and have been shooting some 62 g at 4 moa at 100. Seems like too big of a difference. Def need to get some of the pmc to check if there’s a difference since free floating and retorquing but just wanted to see if the bottom metal binding can be much of an accuracy issue or if it’s just that type of ammo .

Here are some pics , it’s a little tough to see in pics but it’s kinda bananaed out in middle of metal

 

[morgaj1]

I can't tell anything from your pics. However, I have always used the factory spec of 44 in-lb with Tikka factory stock and bottom metal. I only go to 55-65 in-lb in stocks that have been pillar bedded.

 

[Macintosh]

If its bending noticeably differently between various levels of torque, that means either the bottom-metal inlet isnt level/flat and you are bending it to match the bottom surface of the inlet as you tighten the action screws; or something is actually compressing, ie the stock. You could try to put a marker material on the floor of the inlet (inletting black or even your favorite lipstick in a ultra-thin layer) and see if it transfers evenly at low versus higher torque. If the stock is stable and only the bottom metal is bending it shouldnt cause any issue. But if thats not it, the torque is compressing the stock, which can affect consistency.

 

[BLJ]

I have always used the factory spec of 44 in-lb with Tikka factory stock and bottom metal.

Same.

 

[West2East]

I put pillars(threaded lamp rod) in mine and it does not do that at 65. I think you might be crushing the plastic a bit, causing the bowing in the middle.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

Hey guys,
So I have a t3x 223 that after reading here, I retorqued (to 65) with paint pen my action screws. I had some bad groups and went thru the diagnosis progress and saw my bottom “metal” (factory) was a little bent and my rest action screw had pushed the bottom metal into the rifle vs sitting flush.

I then retorqued it to 55 but still had some bend .

Would this cause accuracy issues? It is fully free floated and scope has been mounted properly (SWFA 3-15) .

Side note: I shot pmc 55g before doin the retorque and free float at 100 for 10 round 1.2-1.4 moa and have been shooting some 62 g at 4 moa at 100. Seems like too big of a difference. Def need to get some of the pmc to check if there’s a difference since free floating and retorquing but just wanted to see if the bottom metal binding can be much of an accuracy issue or if it’s just that type of ammo .

Here are some pics , it’s a little tough to see in pics but it’s kinda bananaed out in middle of metal
View attachment 939586View attachment 939587

I got groups like that with ammo my 1:10” twist Tikka didn’t like.

55-grain ADI were 1.1-1.4”

A lot of the 62-grain loads looked like they were fired from a shotgun. This is from two different brands of 62-grain factory ammunition using the same aiming point and zero.

Disregard the purple-marked ones. They were from getting another rifle zeroed. Green were Winchester 62-grain. Unmarked were the Compete brand.

You need to try it with the same ammo.

 

[ztc92]

I got groups like that with ammo my 1:10” twist Tikka didn’t like.

55-grain ADI were 1.1-1.4”

A lot of the 62-grain loads looked like they were fired from a shotgun.

You need to try it with the same ammo.

I second this, mine shot 62g FMJ horribly as well but shoots good ammo to 1.5 MOA.

That said, there’s lots of info on here about the potential to crush the plastic parts of the Tikka bottom metal if you use too much torque, which causes the screw head to pull the tiny steel washer through the plastic. This results in the action screw going deeper than intended and will sometimes put undue stress on the action up and destroy accuracy. There’s also reports of the rear screw being so proud that is affects bolt function.

The best solution I’ve found, which I learned on here from others who had this issue is either
A) Don’t torque the plastic past 45 in-pounds

B) Use some small washers to prevent the screw heads from pulling through if you want to go to 55+ in-pounds.

 

[Q_Sertorius]

Hey guys,
So I have a t3x 223 that after reading here, I retorqued (to 65) with paint pen my action screws. I had some bad groups and went thru the diagnosis progress and saw my bottom “metal” (factory) was a little bent and my rest action screw had pushed the bottom metal into the rifle vs sitting flush.

I then retorqued it to 55 but still had some bend .

Would this cause accuracy issues? It is fully free floated and scope has been mounted properly (SWFA 3-15) .

Side note: I shot pmc 55g before doin the retorque and free float at 100 for 10 round 1.2-1.4 moa and have been shooting some 62 g at 4 moa at 100. Seems like too big of a difference. Def need to get some of the pmc to check if there’s a difference since free floating and retorquing but just wanted to see if the bottom metal binding can be much of an accuracy issue or if it’s just that type of ammo .

Here are some pics , it’s a little tough to see in pics but it’s kinda bananaed out in middle of metal
View attachment 939586View attachment 939587

Also, if it does turn out that you ruined the factory bottom plastic, shoot me a PM and I will send you one.

 

[FaaSamoa]

I got groups like that with ammo my 1:10” twist Tikka didn’t like.

55-grain ADI were 1.1-1.4”

A lot of the 62-grain loads looked like they were fired from a shotgun. This is from two different brands of 62-grain factory ammunition using the same aiming point and zero.

You need to try it with the same ammo.

Good to know! I didn’t know it could vary that much. I remember your response from another thread as well. I will say mine is 1 in 8 twist not sure if that makes difference

Thank you for the pics! Gives me peace of mind

 

[FaaSamoa]

Also, if it does turn out that you ruined the factory bottom plastic, shoot me a PM and I will send you one.

Okay. I’ll go our shooting this weekend and confirm with other ammo

 

[FaaSamoa]

I second this, mine shot 62g FMJ horribly as well but shoots good ammo to 1.5 MOA.

That said, there’s lots of info on here about the potential to crush the plastic parts of the Tikka bottom metal if you use too much torque, which causes the screw head to pull the tiny steel washer through the plastic. This results in the action screw going deeper than intended and will sometimes put undue stress on the action up and destroy accuracy. There’s also reports of the rear screw being so proud that is affects bolt function.

The best solution I’ve found, which I learned on here from others who had this issue is either
A) Don’t torque the plastic past 45 in-pounds

B) Use some small washers to prevent the screw heads from pulling through if you want to go to 55+ in-pounds.

I’ll def get some washers, it hasn’t pulled thru to point it affects bolt function at all and magazine seats fine . Thanks for the input