Tikka accuracy question

I removed the recoil lug and torqued the action to 50 inch pounds. There’s clearly no recoil lug interference anymore, as it’s removed. Seated exactly as it was before with proper recoil lug installation. Thanks guys

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I’m trying to run down a new barrel (? Super picky) vs other issues. Here you can see that after I filled down the action screws I got a quarter turn more based on witness marks. I think most of us are torquing action screws to 65 lbs, but if they are too long it won’t matter how tight you torque them
 
Purposely seated on the lug and torqued down
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Ok, unless those pics are an optical illusion, that lug is your problem. The receiver appears to seat level without the lug. With it in, the action appears to tilt forward, as the lug must be standing proud. Put the stock lug back in it and post new pics.
 
Ok, unless those pics are an optical illusion, that lug is your problem. The receiver appears to seat level without the lug. With it in, the action appears to tilt forward, as the lug must be standing proud. Put the stock lug back in it and post new pics.

Sorry for the confusion. This is with the lug seated incorrectly (not in the groove). I did this just to show the posters insisting that I have it installed incorrectly.


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Sorry for the confusion. This is with the lug seated incorrectly (not in the groove). I did this just to show the posters insisting that I have it installed incorrectly.


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Oh, ok. I missed that.

Still, put it back together with stock parts. UM has not been immune to QC issues.
 
He seated wrong on purpose to show you how it looks when its wrong... It had been seated properly the whole time..
Incorrect unless the original photo is an optical illusion.

This is a factory Sporter barreled action properly seated on the lug using factory stock and factory bottom plastic, and factory recoil lug. Torqued to 50” lbs. This stock has been sanded out to fully free float the barrel both on lite profile D16s and Tikkas heavier D18 profile. Notice the gap in this gun versus his gun at the foreend.

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His original photo shows a gap in the foreend between stock and barrel that shows a canted barreled action in what I see. His photos of the groups show this as well as originally stated.

OP. With shooting the factory stocks, I’ve found that these two small additions really help me maintain proper shooting fundamentals, particularly with shooting hand position and trigger finger.

Factory Tikka vertical grip and a victor company cheek riser.

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OP. There have also been several instances on Rokslide and I’ve seen personally with MT recoil lugs being dog shit.

They were one of the root causes for so many fit issues with Rokstoks on earlier release stocks. They abandoned those lugs and went with their own units now.
 
Looking at the vent hole relative to the stock in the first pics I think it’s properly seated on the lug even though the barrel to forend gap does look excessive for a factory setup.
I would be returning everything to factory form and see if that helps.
Having done almost all tikka “upgrades” myself, most “upgrades” aren’t actually better than factory other than a good stock but the factory stock works perfectly fine as well.
 
OP. There have also been several instances on Rokslide and I’ve seen personally with MT recoil lugs being dog shit.

They were one of the root causes for so many fit issues with Rokstoks on earlier release stocks. They abandoned those lugs and went with their own units now.

Thanks. I’m using a UM recoil lug


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I just solved it for him - new stock, trigger and barrel 🤷🏻‍♂️
You’re a constant troll about Tikkas. No clue why, but you love to post nonsense.

The stocks leave something to be desired for sure. But I shot for years with the $20 VG added.

The triggers and barrels are some of the absolute best factory ones on the market. Better than Bergara, Christensen, etc.
 
I got the rifle and all the accessories in June


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Do you still have original parts? I’d give those one last shot. The only tikka problems I ever had was when I replaced components.

I’ve not seen a lot of Tikka lemons, but they obviously do exist. UM should be able to make it right if the above doesn’t work.

Sorry bud — not fun to troubleshoot something you spent good money on.
 
I've been shooting Tikkas for over 25 years, starting with the 695 in 7mag. To date I own/have owned 7 of them including the T3, T3X, and CTR. I've never replaced any stock parts with the exception of a Limbsaver pad which I love. I've also never taken out the factory 'nubs" to fully free float as it's never been necessary, and I run the factory springs as low as I can get them which is about 2lbs. No issues, ever, getting sub MOA hunting rounds. Rings include Opti-loc, SM, Warne, and even the factory rings given away with the T3, but then again I don't use a cheater bar to torque rings/mounts.

FWIW, the OP should start from the start and go back to original parts and go from there. If that were a Leupold on top there would have been a slew of "your scope sucks" as the culprit by now instead of blaming it on a lug issue.
 
You’re a constant troll about Tikkas. No clue why, but you love to post nonsense.

The stocks leave something to be desired for sure. But I shot for years with the $20 VG added.

The triggers and barrels are some of the absolute best factory ones on the market. Better than Bergara, Christensen, etc.
That is just your opinion and because you state it like a fact doesnt make it true. I have owned several, shot several, and with all my heart think they are over rated.
 
You’re a constant troll about Tikkas. No clue why, but you love to post nonsense.

The stocks leave something to be desired for sure. But I shot for years with the $20 VG added.

The triggers and barrels are some of the absolute best factory ones on the market. Better than Bergara, Christensen, etc.

You can’t blame @PredatorSlayer the poor guy has been defending Christenson arms with his life for years on here. When he sees his chance he takes it 🤣
 
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