Tikka 6.5 Creed rechambered to PRC

Jfujan

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I've been looking for a tikka t3x in 6.5 prc. After looking into it i found out that you can not get a lite t3x stainless in 6.5 PRC. Next option would be the roughtech models, its far more expensive and has a blued barrel which I don't want. Threaded 24" barrel doesn't do me any good because I will be putting a 7" DD S-ti on it so I'll most likely want to chop it. May put it in a chasis eventually so I also don't care about the upgraded stock.

1. If I were to buy a lite t3x stainless in 6.5 creed would it be an option to change the bolt face and rechamber to 6.5 PRC? 2. What do you think the ballpark costs would be? 3. Would I be better off just buying a second barrel that's already cut and threaded to what I want vs rechambering and threading?

I'm pretty inexperienced with all of this tbh, just looking for a way to get what I want at the most cost effective way.
 

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brockel

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I’ve done it. Trade your standard boltface, bolt stop, magazine for someone’s magnum parts. Or you can grind bolt stop till it’s a long action. Depending on your smith I think I had $250 into rechambering and cutting barrel and threading
 

khuber84

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I took my woman's 65cm T3X to my smith, he opened the bolt face, and cut a new 65prc pipe and it's functioned and perforned really well.
 

XLR

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I would go with option #3 and just get a new barrel. Although this is the most expensive option a good cut rifle barrel will be super accurate! You could also sell the factory barrel and recoup some money that way.
 

Macintosh

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Fair enough. Guessing since its a US-focused cartridge they've just not manufactured any yet.
Regardless, it sounds like you are buying a rifle to do this with...a stainless t3x is +/- $850 around me. Rechambering is going to be $250 or likely a bit more, plus dealing with the bolt, bolt stop, etc. unless you can trade (?)...you're going to be into it $1300 or so anyway, probably more if you have to ship your rifle back and forth to get work done. Seems like a lot of hassle and not really much/any cost savings when you can get a stainless tikka 6.5prc in an upgraded stock, already threaded, for about $1300? Says its in stock at one location, although its OOS everywhere else, so maybe it doesnt exist yet? Anyway, it sure seems like they INTEND for it to exist relatively soon to be jumping through flaming hoops to make one.

 
OP
Jfujan

Jfujan

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I would go with option #3 and just get a new barrel. Although this is the most expensive option a good cut rifle barrel will be super accurate! You could also sell the factory barrel and recoup some money that way.
Do you have any brand recommendations on barrels that will fit? Don't need anything high end. Would just be looking for one that will shoot similar to the tikka stock barrel. Probably looking for 1:8, 20"-21", 5/8 threaded, stainless.
 
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OP
Jfujan

Jfujan

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Anyone know if there are shorter prc prefits out there around 20"? Only seeing 22-24"
 

atmat

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why the need for prc? Creed will pretty much do anything prc will.
OP — this. How far are you shooting that you need the PRC over the creed?

The creed is more fun to shoot and will take you out to further than 99% of hunters can shoot at paper, let alone an animal.
 
OP
Jfujan

Jfujan

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Primary target
OP — this. How far are you shooting that you need the PRC over the creed?

The creed is more fun to shoot and will take you out to further than 99% of hunters can shoot at paper, let alone an animal.
Primary target are elk out to 400 yards or a bit over for my current skills. Have a local 600 yard range that ill be shooting at often. I figured with chopping the barrel 4" the bit of extra energy as well as wind resistance and drop would be beneficial. I don't consider myself extremely recoil averse.
 

atmat

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Primary target

Primary target are elk out to 400 yards or a bit over for my current skills. Have a local 600 yard range that ill be shooting at often. I figured with chopping the barrel 4" the bit of extra energy as well as wind resistance and drop would be beneficial. I don't consider myself extremely recoil averse.
You should keep the creed and use the money saved to buy more ammo.
 
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You should keep the creed and use the money saved to buy more ammo.
This is your best option right here. I did the same thing and don’t regret it at all. A tikka in 6.5cm, a good scope, and as much ammo as you can afford. Nothing that you are going to shoot will survive a 140 eldm in the chest.
 
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You can buy a magnum bolt from JA outdoors or Midsouth shooters supply. Then you will have a standard bolt and a magnum bolt, and can swap back and forth from the CM and the PRC
 

atmat

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You can buy a magnum bolt from JA outdoors or Midsouth shooters supply. Then you will have a standard bolt and a magnum bolt, and can swap back and forth from the CM and the PRC
People say that.

But for the difficulty of swapping barrels and the cost of buying a bolt vs a whole new rifle ($750 for stainless lite), it’s just easier to have two rifles honestly.
 
Joined
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People say that.

But for the difficulty of swapping barrels and the cost of buying a bolt vs a whole new rifle ($750 for stainless lite), it’s just easier to have two rifles honestly.
but to add another good scope is $2500 bucks, and another chassis is $1500. So it adds up quick.
 

FLS

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By the time you buy a new barrel and bolt you’ll have more in the lite than you would have in a roughtech. Have it cut down and cerakoted. If you shop around you can find a roughtech for under 1K. Or better yet buy an S20 from europtic for $999.
 
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