Tikka 300WM/7PRC build advice

[Fever Buck]

If you have plans to use a suppressor (which I think everyone should) at some point I’d go 20”. If not, then 22 or 24 if fine. I went 22” on mine but wish I had gone 20” but I also run a TBAC Ultra 7. I’d go with a Nightforce over the Vortex just for durability.

 

[eric1115]

Not sure why the 7PRC caliber hiccup on this particular forum, but all the reasons that have already been beaten to death: accurate, good barrel life, great for hunting western big game. I want to invest in a cartridge that has ability to reach the target accurately with sufficient energy to kill the game we hunt in western Colorado, at the distances we expect to hunt.

Ultimately I've chosen 7PRC and that isn't where my questions lie.



600yds


Hand load with people already set up to reload 7PRC

With the help of other forums I've come down to:
Tikka T3X Lite in 300WM, 24" barrel
Area 419 Hellfire Match
Vortex scope
This will be a better than average rifle at a decent price

Next year or the year after, put on a a 7PRC Preferred barrel blanks barrel on with an MDT chassis

When I win the lottery or axe my other hobbies I'll have UM custom build me a rifle, until then see you on the mountain

I meant no offense, I think the 7PRC is a well designed round and it's actually very similar to how I had my last long range rifle set up (Bergara Ridge 7mmRM hand loading 180 Bergers, long and fast-ish with a 24" barrel and good brake).

I made a change away from that for two reasons. Spotting my own shots through the scope is non-negotiable for me, and while I was able to do it reliably I have since become very much pro suppressor and anti muzzle brake. Ear pro in the field is a pain, and double ear pro sucks at the range, and I've come to dislike being that guy that rattles everyone else's teeth at the range. Suppressed shots on game are an incredible thing to watch also (especially when hunting with others and trying to kill multiple animals out of a group). 180 grain bullets with 65 grains of powder with that rifle weight made for difficult spotting of impacts inside 400 yards or so, and even more so in compromised field positions once the switch from brake to suppressor happened.

Second thing was seeing just how effective heavy for caliber, small diameter match bullets are on game. I now have no hesitation about putting a 108 ELDM into an elk at 1800 FPS, which means that my .243AI gets me to 950+ yards before it's below my impact velocity threshold. I spot all my own impacts at any range from all shooting positions, it suppresses great, I shoot more for less money, and it's made me a more effective long range killer. In all objective honesty, a 6CM would probably have been more practical overall, but I like oddball stuff.

I think the 7PRC has a place, but IMO it's not a good main or only rifle. Its advantage over a 6CM comes at ranges where a person needs to be shooting a few thousand practice rounds a year to be able to shoot effectively on game in the field. That's a budget buster if it's happening with a 7mm or .30 cal magnum. Expensive bullets, lots of powder, regular barrel replacement. If you had said you have a 6mm Dasher and shoot out a barrel per year and want something bigger to get you past 1000 yards, then that's a bit different picture.

Short answer is that you're talking about doing what I did several years ago, and I wanted to share what I learned from them to now.

Now who's gonna address the scope? I feel like I've preached enough.

 

[leclairk]

I am a newish hunter and have been soaking up information from all of the fine helpful folks. I would appreciate some advice before I jump in with both feet:

Purpose: Colorado Elk Hunting
I want to buy a Tikka 7PRC but they don't make one yet. So my goal (and please correct me if I'm screwing something up) is to buy a Tikka T3X Lite in 300 win mag and put a Vortex Razor LHT 4.5-22x50 scope on it for this (and probably next) year. I will also have my gunsmith thread it for a muzzle brake

After this hunting season I will rebarrel it to 7 PRC with a 20" Preferred barrel blanks (carbon fiber?) barrel, keeping the Vortex Razor LHT 4.5-22x50 and putting it into an aftermarket stock.

Buying the rifle and having it threaded will be $900 before taxes.

Ammo:
Nosler 190gr Accubond LR Trophy Grade 300 win mag ammo

My questions:
-22" or 24" Tikka barrel?
-Am I being a moron? (probably lol)
-Has Tikka said anything about a 7 PRC?
-What muzzle brake would y'all suggest for one/two seasons? One gunsmith suggested a 5/8x24 with a Area 419 muzzle brake

Much appreciated!

I have a few thoughts on this which might be helpful. First thing is there is more than one way to skin a cat. Nothing wrong with your plan to end up with a 7PRC via the 300WM route. Something to consider is just buying a Tikka action and a prefit barrel that's already threaded, in the length you want, and in the caliber you want. Why buy a rifle knowing you are going to junk the stock and barrel in a year. Yes you can sell the parts but you won't get much. I would go with a 22" barrel since you plan to add a brake which will add a few inches to your length. I went with a 20" on my son's 7PRC and if I build one for myself I will probably go 22" for the additional MV. BTW, my son is 12 and shoots an 8lb (un-scoped) suppressed 7PRC and shoots it very well. Recoil is very manageable and if you run a brake it would be even better. The only bad part about your plan is that scope. Buy a Nightforce NX8. It's 6oz heavier but it's bullet proof and you don't have to worry about losing zero (more than likely). Just things to consider.

 

[McFarmer]

Why not a 7 rem mag instead of the PRC? You are really not gaining a whole hell of a lot with the 7 PRC ballistically and you will have a ton more options for factory ammo if you are not loading your own. I also second spending the money on decent glass first (not Vortex) such as a Nightforce, Leica, Leupold, Tract, etc and learn how to dial. Glass is the last place you will want to skimp on.

 

[Ohiohuntr]

Seekins would be a good 7prc option