Thumb Release Anchor help

[Kwandog]

I recently switched to a thumb release and at times have really good groups but the groups are inconsistent from day to day. I've been really trying to focus on how I'm anchoring my release and I'm finding it difficult to have a super consistent anchor.

My knuckles are behind my jaw under my ear rather then lying on my jawline. Without having an overly tight grip on my release I can't really feel my knuckles enough to have a consistent anchor point due to the fact that I'm not making a fist with my hand.
I've thought about shortening my draw length and then I could rest my knuckles over my jawline with (jawline between both knuckles) rather then behind my jaw under my ear. That way my hand wouldn't need to be clinched in order to get a solid anchor.

The pro shop in my area is acting like I should leave my draw length as is but I would like to get some of y'all's opinions and what works for the guys who use thumb releases.

 

[Marble]

Fingers should be extended to the first knuckle. Generally, the index and middle finger split the jaw line.

You may need to adjust draw length and your peep.

When you go to make a shot, thumb goes on trigger, pull bt moving your elbow towards your butt, with your outside finger, either pinky or ring finger.

The trigger should not be light.

When you get better at it, you can lighten the trigger. But you probably don't need to.

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[Billy Goat]

Did you move your peep?

Pretty likely you need to make some adjustments, maybe not to your DL possibly just the loop length. Not big changes, but minor changes. Depends on the neck length, and where the hook is in relation to finger beds.


I'd pull the peep out, shoot it a bit to fine tune everything to you again, getting the DL working with the anchor you decide on. Once you are shooting consistently day to day, you know your anchor is working and you can then put a peep back in that works with what you are doing at full draw.


The peep really backs up your anchor, make sure you aren't working your anchor around to work with your peep. That's cart leading the horse.

 

[Marshfly]

What @Billy Goat said is key. Don’t let your peep drive the show. Pull that dude out and blank bale to work on your anchor. Sounds like you need to experiment with an inch shorter draw length also. Under your ear is way back there and hard to be consistent with. The knuckle valley on the jawline is rock solid.

 

[Kwandog]

@Billy Goat @Marshfly I have moved my peep site a lot trying to get it right but I'm going go ahead and remove it and also have my draw length shortened. Hopefully over the weekend I can get it figured out. My next bow will be larger ATA (currently 29) as I I've already switched to a kisser button due to the fact that I can't get the string to touch my nose with out a ton of movement

 

[Billy Goat]

@Billy Goat @Marshfly I have moved my peep site a lot trying to get it right but I'm going go ahead and remove it and also have my draw length shortened. Hopefully over the weekend I can get it figured out. My next bow will be larger ATA (currently 29) as I I've already switched to a kisser button due to the fact that I can't get the string to touch my nose with out a ton of movement

If you don't have a bow press available, shorten your DL more than you think you need, and play with your loop length. You can shoot an inch and a half long loop. Find the spot that anchors/holds the best by playing with your loop length. Once you have that, like say it's a 1.25" loop you can lengthen the DL a 1/2" and use a 3/4" loop.


On longer ATA bows I shoot longer loops and shorter actual DL, on shorter ATA bows I shorten the loop and lengthen the DL. This is minor, like maybe 5/16 difference, but how I fit them to me.

 

[Marshfly]

@Billy Goat @Marshfly I have moved my peep site a lot trying to get it right but I'm going go ahead and remove it and also have my draw length shortened. Hopefully over the weekend I can get it figured out. My next bow will be larger ATA (currently 29) as I I've already switched to a kisser button due to the fact that I can't get the string to touch my nose with out a ton of movement

DOn't let the lack of your nose touching the string push you to a longer ATA if you like the bow. My entire adult sized family shoots 29" Mathews bows with 26.5-27" draw lengths and we ALL use a small piece of D loop material as a kisser. Not everyone's face works for a nose anchor.

In fact, I think a lot more people should get their head more upright and try a kisser instead of the nose touching. It's way more comfortable and consistent and less likely to lead to shoulder collapse. Dropping that head to the string encourages shoulder collapse IMHO.

On that note, one of the reasons we shoot Mathews is due to the SAS system and how we can make peep adjustments fast and easy with it.

 

[mobohunter]

@Kwandog , I had this same issue when switching over to thumb. I was really leaning into my shot, and with some guidance at my local bow shop they had me stand a little taller and keep my head up. Actually lengthened my draw at the end of the day.

I think practice will continue to improve, even just finding your anchor point without pulling your bow back will help. Keep your eyes closed and just focus on finding the anchor point.

 

[Kwandog]

I went ahead and shortened my draw length and it feels much better in general. Now I'm just trying to find a consistent anchor and then setting the peep from there.
For my anchor using the knuckles in my fingers seems to better then using the knuckles in my hand.

 

[Marble]

I went ahead and shortened my draw length and it feels much better in general. Now I'm just trying to find a consistent anchor and then setting the peep from there.
For my anchor using the knuckles in my fingers seems to better then using the knuckles in my hand.

That's good.

So make sure your hand is relaxed, straight line from second joint finger through the wrist, back of the hand against your face, elbow in line with your rest and nock, pull by moving elbow to your butt.

A lot of people have their hand sideways, laying g horizontal to the face, and pull to the side. This can shorten your draw length and cause torque to the side.

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[KBC]

With a Nock 2 it, my DL ended up 1/2” longer and my peep moved up. I anchor with my middle finger knuckle right in the divot where my jawbone ends under my earlobe.
I found this keeps my head the most upright so I don’t have to lean into the string to touch my nose to it. I’m using a 34” ata bow

 

[Sizthediz]

DOn't let the lack of your nose touching the string push you to a longer ATA if you like the bow. My entire adult sized family shoots 29" Mathews bows with 26.5-27" draw lengths and we ALL use a small piece of D loop material as a kisser. Not everyone's face works for a nose anchor.

In fact, I think a lot more people should get their head more upright and try a kisser instead of the nose touching. It's way more comfortable and consistent and less likely to lead to shoulder collapse. Dropping that head to the string encourages shoulder collapse IMHO.

On that note, one of the reasons we shoot Mathews is due to the SAS system and how we can make peep adjustments fast and easy with it.

INTERESTED. any pics of how you're attaching d loop for kisser. Thanks

 

[Marshfly]

INTERESTED. any pics of how you're attaching d loop for kisser. Thanks

Just as it sounds. Tie one end of a D-loop. Cut the rest of the cord off. Burn both ends. Then serve it in with a kind of a figure 8 mess so it doesn't move. The burnt ends serve as the kisser. They fit perfectly in the corner of your mouth. You can move it up and down by spinning it around the center serving to get the perfect position before serving it in.

I tried to take a pic but my phone won't focus on it. LOL.

Found this pic. This is what you tie and cut off.