THE Perfect hunting arrow

[Rusty Green]

Common sense check me here guys.
54lb recurve.
30” 340 spine with 200 total up front.

Am I way off spine or in the ball park? Bare shafts fly straight but with a little nock high and a touch left in the target.

I’m shooting close to 28” draw length with 400 spine Easton axis with a 100 grain insert and a 100 grain point. Arrow length is 30” and a bare shaft is hitting really close to my fletched arrows sometimes it’s hitting better than fletched. But I’m shooting off bare fingers and a 58” bow lol. So I wouldn’t say your way off. I think it has more to do with your release and form, what’s your draw length? I may have missed it I skimmed through this thread.

 

[Hawkeye29]

I’m shooting close to 28” draw length with 400 spine Easton axis with a 100 grain insert and a 100 grain point. Arrow length is 30” and a bare shaft is hitting really close to my fletched arrows sometimes it’s hitting better than fletched. But I’m shooting off bare fingers and a 58” bow lol. So I wouldn’t say your way off. I think it has more to do with your release and form, what’s your draw length? I may have missed it I skimmed through this thread.

No matter what I’m getting nock high flight at this point. 25.5” draw but my limbs (Morrison Max 6’s) are made for my draw length, 54lbs at 25.5.

 

[North Idaho Stickbow]

No matter what I’m getting nock high flight at this point. 25.5” draw but my limbs (Morrison Max 6’s) are made for my draw length, 54lbs at 25.5.

I’ll bet it’s nock point issue. Too high, and too low, will both cause a nock-high impact.

The other thing I’d try is a second nock point below the arrow if you don’t already have one. I have to have two, or else my arrow impacts nock high.

 

[Hawkeye29]

Just wanted to add that I found a conclusion to my nock high issues. I dropped a spine range just to see (from 340’s down to 400’s) and boom, I move the nock up it goes nock high, if I move it down it goes low. I’m sure it’s been said before, but a slightly off spine arrow may fly well but in my case very unforgiving. Just had to keep tinkering to figure it out!

 

[Cs36]

I would agree with this too. Feathers create so much drag (noisier), so they correct an arrow much better. I shoot trad vanes because they are so quiet, but they also show me when I have a bad release or have an incorrect grip and differing finger pressure. I’ve always had more consistent good arrow flight with feathers, I’ve even contemplated switching back for that reason.

Hey brother. When bareshaft tuning for trad, is it still the move to bareshaft at only 3 or for yards from paper?

 

[Cs36]

I’ll bet it’s nock point issue. Too high, and too low, will both cause a nock-high impact.

The other thing I’d try is a second nock point below the arrow if you don’t already have one. I have to have two, or else my arrow impacts nock high.

Interesting . So adding that bottom knock point has cleaned up the the nock high impacts for ya? That’s good word. Thanks brother

 

[North Idaho Stickbow]

Yes sir. It works very well.

 

[oldgoat]

Yes sir. It works very well.

I think it's critical for 3under shooting and pretty damn important for split finger especially if you don't run a really tight nock fit.

Finger pressure is generally the nemesis for me when I'm getting porpoising of the arrow or for me anyways nock high with a bare shaft

 

[Shawn Hultquist]

Yes sir. It works very well.

I second this


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[bjfoxhoven]

Hey brother. When bareshaft tuning for trad, is it still the move to bareshaft at only 3 or for yards from paper?

I shoot at 20 yards with fletched arrows and bareshaft. Then shoot at 30 and 40 also. You have to have a consistent release for this to be relevant though or else your results will vary and it will drive you nuts.
You can definitely shoot at close ranges and see which way the nock end is going (left or eight or up or down) and adjust there before you try any further ranges.
I want the bareshaft flying like a dart, and it should be hitting with fletched points at those longer ranges. It’s always good to assess fletching clearance though too.. I’ve had bareshaft a flying great, but trad vanes were hitting the riser causing a little flight issue, blbothing bad though
If you don’t have consistent form though; paper tuning is probably better.

I ahoot bareshaft an almost every time I practice to ensure I have good form and great release. IDK if there is a better check than it when shooting alone.

 

[Beendare]

I’ll bet it’s nock point issue. Too high, and too low, will both cause a nock-high impact.

The other thing I’d try is a second nock point below the arrow if you don’t already have one. I have to have two, or else my arrow impacts nock high.

Agreed.
2 nok points is critical in my experience tuning...BUT if the nok fits tight between upper and lower at brace, it can have the upper nok pushing down on the back of the arrow at release.

For me, it seems to work the best to have a little gap at brace which makes it perfect at FD.

I have had false readings when tuning....from starting too low and the arrow was bouncing off the shelf. I start at 5/8" high and work my way down with most of mine being right at 3/8" high.