Tactical / Precision Rifles w/WOOD

[Jaegerr]

I might have to ship you my AG composites stock to make a wood version for a tikka 243 I wanna build

 

[AMG04]

Straight black between sanding at 180 & 220, then added dark red at 320 and 400.

Dark Red - Bright Red, Medium Brown, Black.

I use Transtint, which is an aniline dye.

Finish is 100% Tung Oil

 

[43.6N]

@AMG04
You’ve inspired me bro.
I found someone local who had a duplicator, and let me rent time.

Here’s how it’s going:


I found some black walnut lumber. Planed it down to make a 3 board laminate blank about 3” thick.

I’m going to start the sanding tonight

 

[AMG04]

Oh man. Looking good so far. The sanding is where it gets tedious for me... not a fan, but it really determines the final results.

 

[khuber84]

That's a real deal McWoody right there! Love it.

 

[Tanner]

This is way cool. Even as a lightweight carbon fiber stock nerd I love a nice piece of wood, even better when they get used hard and show their years.

 

[43.6N]

Oh man. Looking good so far. The sanding is where it gets tedious for me... not a fan, but it really determines the final results.

Have you been using any sanding blocks or other shapes to keep the lines on your stocks?

The manners copy you did had some brilliantly sharp lines in the picture you posted. I’m noticing just how easy it is to melt away the original shape by being too aggressive with the sandpaper

 

[NWBLKTAIL]

Can’t believe I am just now seeing this thread, amazing work those are pieces of art.

 

[AMG04]

Have you been using any sanding blocks or other shapes to keep the lines on your stocks?

The first one I carved, i used foam sanding blocks and just kept getting waves in the wood. I guess the foam was applying uneven pressure. I no longer use them.

For 80 & 120 I use an orbital sander. The harder flat sanding disk creates nice surfaces. It removes a lot of wood, and fast though... so I keep a very close eye on all my lines. Sand a little, check. Sand some more, repeat. 80 & 120 gets rid of all the tool marks and dimples etc.

For large flat areas, like the bottom of the forend, and the top lines of the forend where I want flat and even lines, I either lay a full sheet of sand paper on the hard work bench surface or ill wrap a hard wood block in sand paper to keep thinks flat.

220, 320 & 400 I cut 1-1.5" wide strips about 3 inches long and tri-fold them. I sand everything with that 1 by 1 paper. It helps get in all the nooks and follows the curves well.

 

[AZ_Hunter]

Start taking orders, seriously.

Beautiful work. I would like to see a Tikka Peak 44 Blacktooth in some nice wood… that would be amazing.

 

[AMG04]

Start taking orders, seriously.

Beautiful work. I would like to see a Tikka Peak 44 Blacktooth in some nice wood… that would be amazing.

If you have the Tikka/Peak combo... I have some nice walnut that hasn't been assigned to a project

This is on the way...

 

[43.6N]

The first one I carved, i used foam sanding blocks and just kept getting waves in the wood

Thanks brother. That was exactly the issue I was having.
I was holding off on using my power tools because I was afraid of pulling too much off too quickly.

But I just need to remind myself to go slow, and not rush this step.

 

[AMG04]

If you run into anything else along the way, just ask.

 

[43.6N]

I will say that the action in letting has always been the biggest barrier whenever I’ve contemplated doing my own stock project before.

But now, knowing the duplicator nailed my inlet geometry perfectly the first time is such a relief!

I was able to test fit the action last night, and seeing all the holes line up, and the barrel sit straight down the channel was like watching the sun rise for the first time in your life. Hahaha

 

[AMG04]

Such a great feeling, right!?