TAC driver vane 2.25 vs 2.75

[Matt G.]

Has anyone tried the 4 fletch 2.25 with fixed BH? I have no issue with the 2.75 but was looking to reduce the profile. What is your experience?

Thanks


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[Dennis]

Four fletch TAC 2.25 have worked great for me with fixed blade SB broadheads. I do start off with perfect bare shaft flight with field tips first which really seem to help with BH's flight.

 

[2Stamp]

For me the 4 fletch 2.25 dropped around 2" more than the 3 fletch 2.75 at 60yds. YMMV.

 

[Matt G.]

For me the 4 fletch 2.25 dropped around 2" more than the 3 fletch 2.75 at 60yds. YMMV.

That is interesting. Almost the same weight. I fletched a few too try out.

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[2Stamp]

That is interesting. Almost the same weight. I fletched a few too try out.

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I can only assume it's the increase in drag.

 

[ColoradoCarp]

I can only assume it's the increase in drag.

So would the increased drag mean better correction to poorly tuned arrows? I am getting back into bowhunting after a few year hiatus, been looking at this same question, tac 2.25 4 fletch vs tac 2.75 3 fletch. I have some clearance issues with my blazer vanes, so hoping to go lower profile with either tacs while also finding the most forgiving setup I can for steering 100 grain iron will dbs. Considering 4 fltech bohning heat vanes as well.

 

[Lowg08]

So would the increased drag mean better correction to poorly tuned arrows? I am getting back into bowhunting after a few year hiatus, been looking at this same question, tac 2.25 4 fletch vs tac 2.75 3 fletch. I have some clearance issues with my blazer vanes, so hoping to go lower profile with either tacs while also finding the most forgiving setup I can for steering 100 grain iron will dbs. Considering 4 fltech bohning heat vanes as well.

If you create to much drag it creates a parachute effect and you will lose velocity. I use TAC vanes and I feel no need to four fletch. Using qad exodus, slick tricks and magnus heads. If I feel the need or want for a four fletch. I use AAE hybrid or bohning heat vanes for four fletch. You can gain better arrow flight pretty easy with paper tuning and a three fletch with enough surface area. Paper tuning can be done cheap and by anyone. Buy a dozen or how ever many. Cut the vanes off one. Buy some 1” tubing and some 90* elbows. Two clamps and freezer paper. Shoot it through paper til a bullet hole. Then shoot one with a vane on it. Then screw on anything you want. No issues.

 

[ColoradoCarp]

If you create to much drag it creates a parachute effect and you will lose velocity. I use TAC vanes and I feel no need to four fletch. Using qad exodus, slick tricks and magnus heads. If I feel the need or want for a four fletch. I use AAE hybrid or bohning heat vanes for four fletch. You can gain better arrow flight pretty easy with paper tuning and a three fletch with enough surface area. Paper tuning can be done cheap and by anyone. Buy a dozen or how ever many. Cut the vanes off one. Buy some 1” tubing and some 90* elbows. Two clamps and freezer paper. Shoot it through paper til a bullet hole. Then shoot one with a vane on it. Then screw on anything you want. No issues.

Okay good info, thank you

 

[Lowg08]

Okay good info, thank you

When paper tuning just look up the chart and micro adjustments on your rest will take the tears right out. You can even paper tune with vanes if you want. Just follow this chart. Pretty easy.

 

[Lowg08]

Here is a comparison for you. This is a 4 fletch AAE hybrid and a 3 fletch 2.75 TAC driver.

 

[MattB]

If you create to much drag it creates a parachute effect and you will lose velocity. I use TAC vanes and I feel no need to four fletch. Using qad exodus, slick tricks and magnus heads. If I feel the need or want for a four fletch. I use AAE hybrid or bohning heat vanes for four fletch. You can gain better arrow flight pretty easy with paper tuning and a three fletch with enough surface area. Paper tuning can be done cheap and by anyone. Buy a dozen or how ever many. Cut the vanes off one. Buy some 1” tubing and some 90* elbows. Two clamps and freezer paper. Shoot it through paper til a bullet hole. Then shoot one with a vane on it. Then screw on anything you want. No issues.

You don’t even need to buy tubing. Take a cardboard box and fold the bottom and top in and tape the paper to one of the open ends.

 

[Lowg08]

You don’t even need to buy tubing. Take a cardboard box and fold the bottom and top in and tape the paper to one of the open ends.

I like that. Never heard that one before. That’s a great idea.

 

[mod-it]

You also don't need to shoot through paper at all.
I just shoot bareshaft vs. fletched field points into a broadhead type target (not a stuffed bag style target) starting at 10 yards and work out to 30 yards. The target can't be too shot up in the spot the arrows are hitting (that can give a false angle of how the bareshaft is hitting) and it is a good idea to stake the target down so it won't rotate when an arrow hits it, otherwise it can have you chasing your tail on the bareshaft angle. Make adjustments until bare shafts are hitting the same as fletched and in the target at the same angle. I will then check that fixed BH flies the same. I rarely see fixed BH's not go to the same spot after I've bareshaft tuned.

Or, forego the bareshafts completely and shoot fixed BH and field points and adjust until they are hitting the same spot. Start close, as things can be off so much that fixed completely misses at 20 yards, especially if a brand new bow setup or just put on new strings/cables or put a different rest on. It is also a good idea to shoot the fixed BH first, so you aren't cutting vanes off the other arrow.

If experimenting with vane steering of a fixed BH, then I'd just get it hitting close to the sight pin and then shoot a fixed several times, one arrow at a time, and ensure its reliably steering it to the same spot. If the vanes aren't up to the task, POI will be not be very consistent.