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I have used a couple different swfa scopes and they dial dead nuts with no problems. Generally the glass is good but the internals are dead nuts and always work. They are not the best lightweight but if you are gonna dial they are great.
Also ordered a NF SHV 3-10x42 forceplex, will see which I prefer between the NF and SWFA.

You must have got the SHV I was gona grab at Europtics![]()
Camera Land NY has them on sale as well![]()
Also ordered a NF SHV 3-10x42 forceplex, will see which I prefer between the NF and SWFA.
Those two scopes serve different applications imo. SHV doesn’t have exposed turrets, ffp, and forceplex reticle isn’t helpful for wind holds, measuring corrections, holdover, etc.
Oh I'm not a long range shooter, but I zero at 100. Dialed 0.9 mils for a 310 yard shot, and knew all I had to do was point and squeeze. No thinking about math while looking at the reticle to do a holdover. Dial, aim, shoot. Drop chart on my scope cover and my rangefinder, so just a glance after I range tells me what to dial.
You had to dial for a 300 yard shot? I figured that would've been in the MPBR for that 280AI.
100 yard zero, 10.8" drop at 300, 13.6" at 325. If I wanted to for whitetail season here for a 200 yard zero I'd just walk around dialed up 0.4 mils. But I'll more than likely just leave it unless hunting a power line or large field.
I'm not going to shoot anything over 400 yards(very rare for me to have that long of a shot), so I set my rifle up so I don't have to worry about dialing at the time of the shot.
What bullet and what velocity are you getting?
Different people have different philosophies and this is the first year for me using a 100 yard zero and dialing. It worked well ha. I'm liking having the ability to know exactly where its going vs being a little low or high depending on the yardage. 160 grain accubonds, moving them at 3020-3030 fps at the muzzle.