SWFA 3-15 Gen1/Gen2 turret interchangeability?

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WKR
Joined
Oct 13, 2013
Messages
987
Location
Colorado
I have a Gen1 3-15 on a Tikka 22-250 and more often than not, ejected brass hits the windage knob and ends up back in the port. Seeing how the Gen2 comes with smaller diameter knobs, does anybody know if you can use them on the Gen1? It doesn’t need to get smaller by much, and I’d rather not take a dremel to this scope.

Thanks all.
 
Ehhh, disregard as I see the set screws are completely different.

Anybody else have a good solution to a lower profile wind knob?
 
There is thread I have seen about a chop and top with a plastic cover. Don’t know of a knob solution.
 
I have a Gen1 3-15 on a Tikka 22-250 and more often than not, ejected brass hits the windage knob and ends up back in the port. Seeing how the Gen2 comes with smaller diameter knobs, does anybody know if you can use them on the Gen1? It doesn’t need to get smaller by much, and I’d rather not take a dremel to this scope.

Thanks all.

No SWFA to pull a cap and see; would it work to turn down the OD on a lathe? Anyone in NW CO got one I can play with? It can be knurled as well if needed.
 
I have a Gen1 3-15 on a Tikka 22-250 and more often than not, ejected brass hits the windage knob and ends up back in the port. Seeing how the Gen2 comes with smaller diameter knobs, does anybody know if you can use them on the Gen1? It doesn’t need to get smaller by much, and I’d rather not take a dremel to this scope.

Thanks all.
Have 2 and had this exact issue, had to mount them higher to miss it. Happen last year on a follow up shot on a buck picking brass out of the ejection port (bad feeling)
 
I have a couple gen 2s and noticed this issue when I have the cover on the windage turret. I took the cover off and it seemed to fix it. I love the scope, but I would trade it in a heartbeat for the same thing with a low profile capped windage turret.
 
I’m going to chop the stem down I guess and use that old table leg cap. Can’t stand picking brass out of the port.
 
Post up what/how you do it, I’ve seen what others have done. Curious as everyone has a different idea
Currently I’ve got it sealed up with no turret and a bunch of electric tape 😂 I believe switching to High rings, which I need to do with this stock anyway, would also remedy the issue.

I do like the idea of cutting an inch or 2 off of the objective end too though, like I’d seen somebody else do on a 6 or 10x… who needs a warranty?
 
Currently I’ve got it sealed up with no turret and a bunch of electric tape 😂 I believe switching to High rings, which I need to do with this stock anyway, would also remedy the issue.

I do like the idea of cutting an inch or 2 off of the objective end too though, like I’d seen somebody else do on a 6 or 10x… who needs a warranty?
some of my best work has been done with electrical tape, I will eventually bite the bullet and try it on 1 of them. The higher rings workout for my current setup
 
Could someone 3d print a lower profile cap or tapered cap? I have mine on a Kimber LA ,has not bounced one yet. But I would rather not have to think about it.
 
Could someone 3d print a lower profile cap or tapered cap? I have mine on a Kimber LA ,has not bounced one yet. But I would rather not have to think about it.
That would certainly be a welcomed option, tikkas have been the only problem child for me when mounted low, with the exception off 223 but I chalked that up as the case just being so small it wasn’t going to cause a problem.
A LA M1500 and SA M70 have been fine mounted lower, but they are not nearly as low as tikkas with Sportsmatch.
 
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