Suppressor for Hunting & Target Practice

[treillw]

The day has come. I'm considering purchasing a suppressor. My ears ring after shooting even with plugs and muffs. It's probably more from the other 6 people at the range ripping off shots than my own gun though. I think I need to reevaluate my shooting location. I know a very small amount of info about suppressors. I have two guns which I would like to put it on:

Cooper Model 92
300 win
9/16x24 thread
currently has factory seamless brake
24" barrel

Ruger Precision
6.5 CM
5/8x24 thread
currently has factory self timing brake
26" barrel

Questions:

• What suppressor is best for precision accuracy?
  • I've heard good things about Thunderbeast and Silencer Co
• What suppressor is best for hunting?
  • I probably don't want the length over 5". I figure the muzzle brake adds 2" to my gun. If I add another 3" onto that for a 5" can, maneuverability shouldn't be terrible.
  • Lightweight options out there? The can will get to see a lot of country.
• Would you get a muzzle brake adapter for each gun, or have the can direct thread and put an adapter on one of the guns?
• Would you get a .300 caliber or .338 caliber?
  • I don't have any current aspirations for a .338, but who knows what the future holds.
  • How much does being over sized affect the noise reduction?
• I'm also wondering if I should even bother putting it on my hunting rifle. The braked 300 barks pretty loud, but once I get it tuned up, I don't really need to shoot it more than a few shots a year.
  • Hearing protection while hunting isn't always convenient or achievable though
• Do you see much of a point of impact or accuracy difference when removing the can?
  • It might be nice to use the can for practice and remove it for lugging around the mountain.

I appreciate you taking the time to answer any of my many questions! Thanks!

 

[brisket]

Here's my take:

• What suppressor is best for precision accuracy?
  • I've heard good things about Thunderbeast and Silencer Co
    • Thunderbeast is very good, no experience with SilencerCo, also had good results from Sig
• What suppressor is best for hunting?
  • I probably don't want the length over 5". I figure the muzzle brake adds 2" to my gun. If I add another 3" onto that for a 5" can, maneuverability shouldn't be terrible.
    • I don't worry about length too much. The weight is more important to me. YMMV
  • Lightweight options out there? The can will get to see a lot of country.
    • Look for Ti cans when you can - they all add weight
• Would you get a muzzle brake adapter for each gun, or have the can direct thread and put an adapter on one of the guns?
  • I'd get QD. I've found POI shift to be negligible for my rigs. Plus the threads are always protected
• Would you get a .300 caliber or .338 caliber?
  • I don't have any current aspirations for a .338, but who knows what the future holds.
  • How much does being over sized affect the noise reduction?
  • 30 Cal. No experience to back it up, but I don't have a need for 338. Oversize exit hole I'm sure makes a difference but I can't detect it by ear
• I'm also wondering if I should even bother putting it on my hunting rifle. The braked 300 barks pretty loud, but once I get it tuned up, I don't really need to shoot it more than a few shots a year.
  • Hearing protection while hunting isn't always convenient or achievable though
  • QD setup less suppressor can be a brake (money is close to standard brake also). Then if you don't take it hunting it's not a big deal, but you have the option
• Do you see much of a point of impact or accuracy difference when removing the can?
  • It might be nice to use the can for practice and remove it for lugging around the mountain
  • POI shift from mounting and dismounting can has been negligible. However POI from QD brake to suppressor is substantial (albeit consistent). Remember, you're hanging a weight off of the barrel...

P.S. With the muzzle weight comment. I don't own a rifle that shoots worse with a suppressor - they all tend to shoot more consistently with a can on the barrel.

Also, just so you know when you get one they seem to multiply in your safe when you're not paying attention

 

[BRTreedogs]

The answer is always the same. Feel free to do some searching..
Thunderbeast Ultra 7

 

[Yellowknife]

Questions:

• What suppressor is best for precision accuracy?
  • I don't know about "best", but with the relatively light weight barrel on the Cooper, you want fairly light. I use a Gemtech Tracker, and have a consistent 2.5 MOA downward shift when I screw it on.
• What suppressor is best for hunting?
  • Light ones.... The Tracker has worked perfect for the last 18 months and hundreds of rounds on a light 30-06, It may not be the "best" for somebody else though. I shortened the barrel 4" to help compensate for the added length and to give it a stiffer platform to screw on to.
  • There is more too it than just the the length though.... Having the weight out there at the end of the muzzle significantly effects balance. There is no way I would want to carry around a light gun with a 24" barrel and another 8" of suppressor on it. Would be extremely front heavy.
• Would you get a muzzle brake adapter for each gun, or have the can direct thread and put an adapter on one of the guns?
• Would you get a .300 caliber or .338 caliber?
  • My understanding is that more (internal) volume is better for sound suppression. But nearly all the .338 cans I looked at were far too long/heavy for a sporter .30 cal
• I'm also wondering if I should even bother putting it on my hunting rifle. The braked 300 barks pretty loud, but once I get it tuned up, I don't really need to shoot it more than a few shots a year.
  • Hearing protection while hunting isn't always convenient or achievable though
• Do you see much of a point of impact or accuracy difference when removing the can?
  • I see a significant shift, but it's 100% repeatable. What I do on brushy approaches is remove the can for the hike and then screw it back on above treeline. If for some reason I needed it in a hurry, my 100 yd zero with a can is essentially a 250 yd zero without... so it's workable.

Other notes....

The can will reduce recoil by quite a bit, but NOT as much as the brakes you have now. About half of that +/-.

Volume counts with a can, so a 5" isn't going to do the same work as an 8" without being larger diameter.

I'm fairly convinced that setting up a hunting rifle with a can is a commitment. i.e. the barrel needs to be an appropriate length so that the suppressor doesn't ruin the handling and portability. Even with my light unit on an 18.5" barrel, it's top heavy on a shoulder sling. A more rear weighted stock would take care of that... but again, it's a commitment to the type of rifle you are trying to put together.

I've been super happy with the Tracker I have now. But it's specifically for a lower volume hunting / target application on a non-magnum. For high rates of sustained fire OR short barreled magnums, I would be looking at the various Ti options.

 

[blake_mhoona]

i'm currently in the wait game for my first suppressor. I went with a YHM Resonator. Mainly for plinking with my .300 blackout but during hunting season it'll live on my .308. I found it for $450 and bought it then transferred it to my local Silencer Shop dealer who had a kiosk. Highly recommend that process unless the transfer fee + the suppressor is more than Silencer Shop sells it for (or if its out of stock at SS). Using the kiosk is super simple fingerprints, photo, and paperwork all done at one location and I was able to also enroll it into one of their One Shot Trusts.

I found out recently that my sporter barrel on the 308 will not be able to be threaded to accept the QD muzzle brake. So i'm currently going through whether or not I want to build a rifle off the Savage 11 action or if I want to sell the gun and buy a new gun (possible the model 10). the stock on my current setup would not support a heavier barrel so if i did build it would be a stock and barrel change. I'd probably go with an 16-18" barrel given that the suppressor is 7 7/8" long (and 16oz)

One question that I think was addressed but just want to confirm. If you sight in with the suppressor and then remove it. Later when you put it back on, the original point of aim with the suppressor is still the same correct? Or is it every time you take it off and put it back on it changes it? Like i said it will live on my .308 during season but for transport sake i could see taking it off and then putting it back on in the field and just want to confirm that the zero won't change from the original sight in with it on.

 

[Yellowknife]

One question that I think was addressed but just want to confirm. If you sight in with the suppressor and then remove it. Later when you put it back on, the original point of aim with the suppressor is still the same correct? Or is it every time you take it off and put it back on it changes it?

At least on mine, I can remove it and replace it and have solid RTZ. That is a direct thread mount. No experience with QD mounts.

I have discovered that if it is even 1/16 of a turn loose, it will shoot sloppy groups low and left of POA. Properly tight against the shoulder and it's good to go.

Obviously if the threading on the gun or mount is less than perfect your results may vary.

 

[treillw]

So most people say that there is a POI shift when you take the can off and just use the adapter muzzle brake. My question is does the rifles tuning change? ie) if you have a load developed that shoots .5 moa with the can on, will that same load shoot 1.5 moa with the can off?

Is is better to develop a load while using the can or the brake?

Lastly, where is the best place to buy a TBAC can and brakes? Bargains are one of the things I most enjoy hunting for. I think I remember seeing some black friday sales last year? Anything worth waiting for?

Thank you all for your help.

 

[BRTreedogs]

So most people say that there is a POI shift when you take the can off and just use the adapter muzzle brake. My question is does the rifles tuning change? ie) if you have a load developed that shoots .5 moa with the can on, will that same load shoot 1.5 moa with the can off?

Is is better to develop a load while using the can or the brake?

Lastly, where is the best place to buy a TBAC can and brakes? Bargains are one of the things I most enjoy hunting for. I think I remember seeing some black friday sales last year? Anything worth waiting for?

Thank you all for your help.

Yes, it all just depends what your set is.
My rpr has poi shift going from bare to brake to suppressed.
And each load opens or shrinks depending on the load.
That's why I say go direct thread.
Because otherwise you most likely will have to have 2 different loads,zeros and rifle profiles.
So for any given trip your gonna have to decide suppressed or not.
Hahahahaha no deals on Tbac I'd poop a purple twinkie if you can even find 1 in stock.

 

[30338]

Bugholes closed out the TBAC suppressors about a year ago for $850 on the UL7. Shooting with them makes me wish I had one 30 years ago. Definitely recommend.

 

[rtaylor]

Hansohn Brothers have the TBACs as of 2 days ago. I haven't checked since. If looking for a precision lightweight hunting suppressor I'd go TBAC Ultra 7. I've heard the sound suppression isn't spectacular with the 5 and the 9 would be quiet but super long on your guns you listed. My cousin has the Sico Omega and it is nice for running on semi autos but if primarily target and hunting go TBAC.

 

[AceRifles]

The silencerco harvester is a great can but is a tad long. Most recently the new Dead Air Nomad 30 has been my favorite. Thunderbeast makes the best cans for a precision rifle but are pretty pricey.

 

[cba5003]

Treillw,
What did you end up doing? Curious because I have a Cooper 7mm rem mag backcountry as well and a thunderbeast ultra 7 in jail. Did you chop barrel? Considering modifying or re-barrel cooper vs just new setup.
Thanks

 

[treillw]

Treillw,
What did you end up doing? Curious because I have a Cooper 7mm rem mag backcountry as well and a thunderbeast ultra 7 in jail. Did you chop barrel? Considering modifying or re-barrel cooper vs just new setup.
Thanks

I went with a 5" ultra and a 9" ultra. I just kept barrels stock. I don't care how long the RPR barrel is - the gun is a tank already and I just use it for target practice/learning wind. I use the 9" on the RPR.

This past year I just hunted with the brake again on the M92. Two reasons - it changed my pet load from half moa to 2 moa - didn't have time to redo load development. Also, the M92 is a lightweight gun shooing a heavy 215 grain bullet. My wife and I share the rifle when we hunt typically. It's as much her gun as it is mine. Going to the 5" ultra on it makes the recoil pretty jumpy, to the point where I don't feel terribly comfortable with it. At least in my few shots trying the can out and testing accuracy. I feel like the scope pushes pretty darn close to my eye. Last thing I want is for her to be afraid of it, or scope herself. She does awesome with it with the brake, so we just dealt with the ear protection.

I haven't been thrilled with the 215 berger bullet terminal performance. I might try another bullet and try to come up with something that doesn't recoil as badly.

If you stalk my other posts, you will find a couple more posts I've made about my thoughts on the suppressors.

The RPR is a dream with the 9". I have never shot the M92 with the 9". After bear season I'll start messing with it maybe, but that's a lot of barrel to be toating around the woods.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

 

[Ucsdryder]

Unfortunately the time really hasn’t come because once you decide to drop 1500 on a suppressor then you have to find one in stock, then wait 8-10 months. It’s harder than you think to wait. I’m 3 months in and I’m over the wait.