Stuck on Quick Drop

By optimal lethality, I was mostly referring to bullet type and weight. Certainly not referring to barrel length as I own a 6cm with a 16.5” barrel.
 
Example: A rifle that is hammer with Y barrel length and X load. Are you going to adjust barrel length/Load to get quick drop and forgo accuracy?
 
Reading this thread I am getting a very basic understanding of quick drop. What I am trying to wrap my head around is you all are essentially building your rifle and loads to utilize quick drop?

Yes.
So you are potentially compromising optimal lethality for quick drop?

No. You might lose a little lethal range out past 600 yards where most of us have no business shooting at animals unless they are huge.

There are some guys that are intentionally down-loading loads to match up with QD. I personally don’t like this method, but to each their own.

Y'all are still fixating on neutering. It works both ways.

Here are 3 examples from my own life:

1) 18" 6.5mm barrel. It has to be 6.5 PRC instead of a standard case to make quick drop with 147 ELD and 156 EOL. Just like that, I'm a magnum guy.

2) Goal was to send 200gr bullets and make quick drop with a 22" unthreaded factory 308 barrel already in hand. Testing shows the 308 chamber might need a 26" barrel (probably longer that that) to make quick drop with a heavy bullet. I bump it up to Sig Fury brass to make it, since regular 308 loads won't make it. Research shows it probably needs to be a little longer than 20" to make speed. I threaded the barrel without cutting it and it worked. Just like that, I have one long barrel rifle.

3) It would be nice to have a 223 that makes quick drop with heavy hunting bullets. I'm at sea level. The barrel would have to be 22". No thanks. I have tons of 6.5 creed once fired brass. 22 Creed it is.

Example: A rifle that is hammer with Y barrel length and X load. Are you going to adjust barrel length/Load to get quick drop and forgo accuracy?

This is getting into mythology about "loads and nodes" and too theoretical for something that won't play out in the real world.
 
My thoughts go like this:
Plan A is obviously use my own ballistic rangefinder.

If that goes down, resort to plan B. I’ll have a dumb rangefinder back at the truck or on my hunting partner.

QD lets me make accurate shots off other people’s or my own back up equipment beyond MPBR. Without it I’m flying blind, and really limiting myself to whatever the MPBR of the gun is (also something I practice).

It may even keep me in the field, rather then needing to bail back to the truck so long as my buddy has a working rangefinder.

It’s certainly a useful tool. But I’m not selling my range finding binos any time soon. And I’ll certainly hunt with a non QD rifle when it’s the right tool for the job.
 
Seems I have read on here velocity's numbers from 2500-2850 working with Qd.
If you get past 5-600 yards does that number need to be on the higher end?
Just curious about the velocity difference and how that plays out.
All my rifles (223/6.5cm) are 16 inch so i probably handicap myself some with factory loads.
 
Seems I have read on here velocity's numbers from 2500-2850 working with Qd.
If you get past 5-600 yards does that number need to be on the higher end?
Just curious about the velocity difference and how that plays out.
All my rifles (223/6.5cm) are 16 inch so i probably handicap myself some with factory loads.

A few minutes with a ballistic calculator will answer all of that for you, for your guns- or any other.
 
My thoughts go like this:
Plan A is obviously use my own ballistic rangefinder.

If that goes down, resort to plan B. I’ll have a dumb rangefinder back at the truck or on my hunting partner.

QD lets me make accurate shots off other people’s or my own back up equipment beyond MPBR. Without it I’m flying blind, and really limiting myself to whatever the MPBR of the gun is (also something I practice).

It may even keep me in the field, rather then needing to bail back to the truck so long as my buddy has a working rangefinder.

It’s certainly a useful tool. But I’m not selling my range finding binos any time soon. And I’ll certainly hunt with a non QD rifle when it’s the right tool for the job.

This has been my exact experience the last 10 days. My Revics broke, so I switched to my old Leupold handheld RF and went right back to shooting with no hiccups. Quick drop in and of itself isn't an end-all be-all solution, it is a tool in the toolbox that lets you keep going when things go wrong if your rifle/load line up with it. A quick correction factor will work on some other rifles/loads. I still keep some dope cards either in my bino harness or back at the house, but knowing QD means I can be turning my turret the moment I am done ranging instead of looking to the card, finding range, moving over to the elevation correction, then dialing. It also gives me good reference points to know when something is wrong, like the incorrect profile is synced (of course, that never happens). And for the record, I am talking 600ish yards and closer. At my most common DAs and the rifles I shoot, QD falls apart somewhere around 5-600 and would either require a separate correction factor for longer ranges, or switching to my lockscreen/app/dope card (my normal go-to).

So a rangefinder and a taped on dope sheet walk into a bar right… View attachment 1037284

We could be shooting right now instead of talking about shooting. But the weather in that picture looks better than it is currently...
 
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